BlueSky

Try leaning out the idle mixture screws a tad. An exhaust analyzer is needed to set them correctly. And some have added a thin washer to the diaghragm shafts to lean those out. Cowpuc added some to Tweeks a few years ago. You might find the thread if you do a search. The enrichment diaphragms could need replacing too maybe?

There are several videos on line about how to eliminate the servo brake ABS system if that is what you want to do. I'm sure there are repair videos too.

On partzilla.com, I found it on the crankshaft piston diagram.

Yep, I drove a 95 Mark VIII Lincoln for 7 years, loved that car! The air bags are a problem. You can buy aftermarket air bags or spring replacements. And the blend door like was previously posted is an common issue. No cheap fixes I suppose but the springs are cheaper than the air bags.

I thought I would update on the carb cleaning of the RSV with Gumout. After running a tank or two of gas with a half bottle of gumout with PEA through, now it starts immediately running smoothly, and I'm able to push the choke in in a few seconds after starting. It starts and runs perfectly now. Good stuff!

The 93 models have the 4 brush starter instead of a weak 2 brush starter that came on the 83 thru 90 models. So it should turn over quickly when starting.

Now, the search begins in earnest! What will FF buy? We should start guessing with a prize for the person who guesses correctly.

I searched for a post but couldn't find one. Things I can think of are generic stuff such as leaking clutch slave cylinder, leaking fork seals, noisy speedometer, and I suggest taking an infrared thermometer with you to check the exhaust pipe temperatures to verify if it is running on all 4 cylinders. Check the tire dates and if they are old, that may be a bargaining chip.

Well, FF, tell that Cowpuc that he can't leave us hanging for months at a time any more. We won't allow it! Posting is mandatory!

Was second gear repaired on her?

Beautiful Blond! That's my favorite color.

Checking the oil level without the springs in the leg is valid for the OE springs. Since the Progressive springs will occupy more space the oil level will be slightly higher with them. I don't know if the difference is enough to matter. From what I've read on this site different owners have used different length spacers. I think at least one didn't use them at all. Others have cut them to 1/2", 1 " etc if memory serves. I haven't actually replaced mine yet so others will now more than I about this subject. There are a lot of threads on this subject if you have the time to search and read them.

It's on the side and easily accessible to adjust with the engine running. Part 19 in the diagram https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1989/venture-royale-xvz13dw/carburetor-non-california-model

I think the market is that bad. I saw recently that bike registrations are half what they were at their peak in 2006. With the economy picking up, it might change. It's hard to believe your bike hasn't sold though. The last motorcycle I sold was the 2004 Kawasaki Concours and it took 2 years to sell it.

I was having visions of that twin turning 14k rpms developing 150 hp! Yeah, elevation knocks the heck out of hp if you don't have a turbo. Copied from the web. Higher Altitude Means Less Power Reduced oxygen in high altitudes can lead to inefficient, sluggish engine performance because there is less air to feed the internal combustion engine. Generally speaking, an engine loses three percent of its rated power for every 1,000 feet of altitude gained. This means you could lose as much as 20% of your vehicle’s horsepower if you drive it from sea level to Big Bear Lake (with its 6,750 elevation).

Goldwings don't have a lot of leg room either. But, a RSV does. I suspect you would be comfortable on a 99-13 RSV.

What rpm did that Triumph have to turn to put out that much hp?

from Yamaha they are over a hundred each. the carb boots, carb holders, or as Yamaha calls them, (Joint, carburetor) are not available new. ebay is your friend. part number 26H-13586-00-00 I think

I googled and found these but there are other vendors tha supply the diaphrams. https://www.carburetordiaphragms.com/shop/motorcycles/yamaha/set-of-four-brand-new-aftermarket-carburetor-diaphragms-yamaha-xvz13-xvz1300-venture-royal-1986-1993/ https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=yamaha+venture+royale+carb+diaphragms&_sacat=6000

A compression test will tell you if the rod is bent for sure. That is what I would do next. I used to have a 2004 Concours and hydrolock was a popular subject on their forums at that time. And it had a fuel valve that was supposed to shut off the fuel when the engine wasn't running. The carbs didn't have an overflow so it overflowed into the engine.

You won't know exactly what you are dealing with until you pull it apart. The rod is bent evidently and it could be hitting the block or something else. You will need new rings I think. Used rings don't reseat well.

A washer or spacer in the transmission is too soft and when it wears a bit, it won't stay in second gear. Cowpuc rode several of these bikes 200k miles without second gear, so it doesn't have to be repaired if you just skip second. The biggest cost in repairing it is labor since the engine has to be removed. Sometime in 85 the issue was corrected. If you search the forum you can find the start of the serial numbers denoting the ones that don't have the problem. Some members like yamagrl repaired her own bike.

Partzilla lists the same part # basket from 99 to 13. 26H-16150-10-00 They told me that if I ordered one it would come from Japan. They also told me that part #4XY-16150-09-00 did not supersede the 26H part#. When the Vmax was redesigned in 2009, it had an entirely different engine, 65 degrees V, slipper clutch. I doubt if any of the parts interchange. If you google the part # that Freebird posted, 4XY-16150-09-00, Bike Bandit will pop up. I called them and they said the 4XY # superseded the 26H part #. I suspect those are the only two available baskets, but who knows for sure? Perhaps the 4XY part is the only one available?

Yeah, I am missing him too!

In hot weather maybe try 20w50 and in a dino oil. Dino oil will stick to engine parts without adding something to it to make it tacky from what I have read. My 07 owner's manual recommends 10w30 from 10 degrees up to over 90 and 20w40 for 40 degrees up to about 120 degrees.