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videoarizona

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Everything posted by videoarizona

  1. My 89 has the original stator. My 05 does as well. Both have led headlights that reduces the load. But that's only been for the past 3 years. Clean oil, in my opinion, is paramount to stator life. I also don't ride in 100 degree heat...which no doubt helps! Lol.
  2. Sorry Paul... Old age and multiple posts obviously confused me... Ok... If the leak is forward of the picture then there is the neutral/gear switch and it's orange O ring. The cover is what I call the final drive cover. It's where the engine drive is turned 90 degree to go to the output shaft. It has 2 leak areas... The main gasket and the crush water on the bottom screw. The crush water can be annealed and used again. Next to the neutral switch is the clutch slave cylinder. It can leak where it's mated to engine. And above that to the left are the 2 stator wires that come out of the stator case. They can seep. If they are seeping, then when you shut down motor they could drip off wires as well. BUT.... If any of the above were leaking, you would have a trail of oil underneath the left side of bike..... Covering parts of the left muffler, left saddlebag, kick stand and center stand areas. As they all would leak under pressure as well as when you lean bike over to left on kickstand. All of the above leak areas can be accessed by taking off that one cover as I did in the picture I sent you. If the stator wires are the problem, then you will need the gasket for that cover to get to the wires, clean them and dry them up. Hope this helps...
  3. Just heard from Cowpuc. He and Tippy are doing well. Taking time with grand kids and playing around with their Ebikes! He knows his membership is expired and probably won't renew. "we are on to the next phase of life"...in his words. He does miss us and wants me to say "HI" to all for them! So we shall see where the Pucster ends up...and I'll be keeping in touch with him and let you know how they are doing. Sniff, david
  4. To the left of the final drive is the neutral/gear switch. It has an orange O ring that can leak. To the left of that is the stator wires. Below the final drive is the tiny crush washer in the drive cover... On the bottom. It can leak if not replaced. But both of those are forward of where your leak appears. I'm assuming the leak was straight down. To the right of the final drive is the output shaft. The rear shock is up in there as well but our shocks on the 1st Gens are not known to leak, if memory serves. That's about as far as I can go, Ronnie. Let us know what you find.... David
  5. Yesterday, I left a message on his phone asking him to check in as we miss him. Hopefully he'll drop in and say hi at some point. david
  6. The only other area that would drop oil down in that area would be the rear cylinder valve cover leaking. But then you should be able to see an oil line running down the back of the cylinder.
  7. In that area, there isn't much. Forward of that is a lot of areas....but your scoot looks to clean for those. My guess is pry off the rubber drive boot cover and see if there is oil there.
  8. Not a word, Ronnie. I sent him a private text as well. He seems to be ok judging from his ebike riding with Tip on you tube. I'll call in another day or so if he doesn't check in.....
  9. I'm waiting and waiting and waiting and waiting.... For my fork seals for the '89. Yamaha seals. Guess they have to go find the retired guy who ran the machine that made them.... Been over a month and looks like maybe September they will ship. We shall see... David
  10. Is there a way to reboot the system?
  11. Look up your model and year at any of the many parts houses. Partshark, etc. Write down part numbers then search for best price. I bought mine from a recycler. Used. Came in good shape. Been 3 years now. Search eBay... David p.s. manuals available on this site.
  12. RainX makes a plastic version. It works and works well. Been using it for a few years now....no problems yet...
  13. I've had Clearview on 4 scoots now. Had vents in all. There was a delay as the bikes are old models, but the product simply works very well! Well worth any wait. Service has always been good too! I do recommend them....
  14. To put things in perspective, Chinese made brings to mind one thing: the type of material used in making the product. We know Yamaha uses a certain type of rubber for it's diaphrams. They last years! We don't know anything about Chinese products. Could be plain rubber that will deteriorate with gas contact.... Maybe even engine heat will destroy it. Not worth the risk. Especially if one comes apart and leaves teeny runner pieces in the carbs. Buy reputable and only do the job once.
  15. Another way to look at it... Wrenching on your own bike will be an educational and fun experience! The satisfaction of a job done well! The best part is you have us nut cases here to help! Glad you are back on road!
  16. Brought the RSV home from Phoenix. Yes, I put it on a trailer! Shame on me...right? Nah...when it's 110 degrees, I'm not riding without air conditioning. And no, 130 degree air blasting back at me at 75mph is not AC! Now that she's in the garage, which is insulated, I can work on her at my leisure. Right now, though, trying to make room for youngest kidlet and boyfriend...coming back into town to get her Master's. Bringing cat and boyfriend. Will stay here until they find a place in Tucson. So won't get much done while I visit with them. But nice to have RSV home!
  17. Looks like it, grins! Doesn't matter. I couldn't get my big hands between the carbs enough to push on either of the 2 sizes I brought with me. So didn't get to drain the bowls and check the levels.
  18. Maybe something like these: Although I prefer a daylight color temp not the cool temps. 5600k are what mine are in pics above. They mimic daylight, not blue white. But that's me.. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-headlight-bulbs-conversion-kits/h4-led-fanless-headlight-conversion-kit-with-compact-heat-sink-4000-lumensset/3929/8565/
  19. Love my Clearviews on both Ventures! Far better than stock. Regarding lights. Can't help with the Daymaker kits. Looked like to much work for me. I installed led bulbs. Made sure they had the low beam cut off. Works fine. Got 2 bulbs and put one each scoot. I understand now the bulbs are built to mimic a regular bulb so beam pattern is better. 2 pics below... I think the beam pattern on mine is fine. My bulbs are no longer made(2years ago). But if you go with a reputable dealer, you will be fine.
  20. That is my only issue... Riding in Arizona. Keeping cool. Yep....
  21. Thanks Neil! I've been wanting more protection than full gear can give. This looks good!
  22. Mike, go through the scoot front to back. Re-torque everything major. What I'm suggesting is for you to start a maintenance record. Be thorough. Two things: 1... You will know what's is right with the bike and corrected what was wrong... And 2..... You hopefully won't have any safety surprises as you take off and enjoy riding a 1st gen Venture again! Welcome back! david
  23. When my red fuel line caused problems, it was a direct starvation issue. I gather what was happening was at high speed or under acceleration, the carbs would run out of fuel due to the line collapsing... Hence the scoot would bog down immediately. By the way you described your problem, my first thought was spark. It's easy to understand an engine bogging down at a certain rpm/load every time when you think electrical. But replacing the tci should have cured that. Stator not putting out enough volts? Don't think that would be an rpm issue unless something in the stator case is shorting out due to centrifugal force or high heat. But can't say I've ever heard of that on a non- points system. This is interesting... For sure. Hang in there... You'll get it!
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