rcbailey56

I'll be taking the bike out again this weekend and I'll double check my numbers. BTW: I am running Elite IIIs front and rear. I really appreciate the link to the calculator.

Thanks to all of you who answered. Based on the replies, I assuming my 4000+- is about right then. I'll take it out again in a day or so and check other speeds mentioned. The 56/1mph yields 4760, so I'm in the ballpark. Thanks again,

Just curious how fast the motor should be running @85mph in 5th gear. Just got my bike on the highway for the first time and it turns 4000rpm @ 85 in 5th. That seems a little high to me, but then again, this is the first time I've ridden a Venture at highway speeds.

I'd get that bike in a heartbeat. Even if the motor is seized, carbs gunked up or anything else like that, There is more than enough parts if the bike is complete to make it worth your while.

Many thanks to all of you. You guys are the best. Removing the cam cap is an idea I wouldn't have thought of. As the song lyric goes, "So simple , it plum evaded me". I really appreciate the heads up on the shoulder bolt as well. I want to tell anybody who is not a member on this site, You Need To Be! The technical expertise and experience is a resource that has value way beyond the cost of joining.

Just finished adjusting valves. Installed the front valve cover, all is well. Installed the rear valve cover and one of the bolts stripped out the hole I was installing into. I don't know if it was already loose and I was the lucky one to find it or if something I did caused that. It never did feel like it was starting to snug up, so who knows. All I know now is, it is stripped and I need a solution. Hopefully, one that doesn't involve removing the motor. Along time ago, I used to work VW engines and the head studs would get loose over time to the point where the hole was slightly enlarged. We would use an aftermarket head stud that had coarse threads on one end that would bite into the alloy case kinda like a big wood screw. Does anyone know of the easiest (fastest) solution to getting the valve cover reattached? I would really like to get this bike back on the road so I can drive it to Florida next week. Thanks for reading and I look forward to reading your suggestions.

Bearings aren't here yet, but when I get in there, I'll be able to visualize what you suggest. Thanks so much. That's the kind of suggestion that comes from experience and I love it.

Thanks for the info Evan, That needle bearing your referring to, is that the cylindrical bearing with part# 93311-32698-00? And the inner race you mentioned, is that the collar, part# 90387-203H7-00, shown on the fiche? I hope your day is pleasant and rewarding.

As soon as the parts get here, I'll be replacing the bearings front and rear. In the meantime, I got carbs to finish rebuilding and valve shims to replace. Hopefully, the valve shims will be here in a day or so. Already got the Progressive Springs installed, thanks to SkyDoc_17 for speedy delivery. Wow! I'm getting anxious to ride now. Thanks everyone for all the help,

Hey Evan, Thanks for the reply. That info you mentioned, where can I find it? Richard

I'm working on a '92 Royale and I will be removing the rear wheel to put on a new tire. I was thinking this would be a good time to change the wheel bearing (odometer reads 27,000+ but I think it's 127,000+). I'm having a hard time figuring out what exactly to order. On the fiche, I see a collar (90387-203H7-00), cylindrical bearing (93317-32635-00) and a bearing (93306-30417-00). Do I need all three of these parts? I can't find the collar. Do I need something else? What usually gets changed, if anything? Or, is the rear wheel bearing not something that usually gets changed and I just need to make sure it's greased? Thank you so much for reading this post and I look forward to reading any replies. Richard

1983-1985 are MKI 1st Generation. 1200cc 1986-1993 are MKII 1st Generation. 1300cc Anything after 1993 is a 2nd Generation. Sounds like a bike you would enjoy riding.

Name of Restaurant The Branch Tavern Street Address 5466 McEver Rd City Flowery Branch State or Province GA Website (Optional) - Quality of Food Great Quality of Service Fantastic Biker Friendly? (Parking, Trusted Location, Etc.) Yes Kind of Food? (Mexican, Chinese, etc.) American Bistro Alcohol Served? Yes Additional Comments Sunday - 10% off if you come there on your bike. Tuesday - All Burgers 1/2 price. Very casual. Nice clean restaurant. Great food and not too loud.

Just to say it another way On the left side of the bike there is an idle speed screw that syncs carb #1 with carb #2. On the right side of the bike there are two idle speed screws, one of them syncs carb #3 with carb #4 and the other screw syncs the left side (#s 1 and 2) with the right side (#s 3 and 4). Happy tuning

Folks, I never stop being impressed by the ingenuity of the folks on this site. Awesome! Great work Dingy!

'92 VR: I thought I would replace the fork brace with a Super Brace. Shouldn't be too hard, right? My problem is I can't get the Super Brace to fit in between the accordion style fork tube boots. When I look at other Ventures that have the Super Brace, there are no boots on the fork tubes. Instead, they have some kind of seal pressed into the top of the lower fork tube. I need to service my forks anyway, so can I take them down and replace the boots with seals? If so, can I just order lower fork tube dust seals? I will rebuild the forks, so can someone who is experienced in forks advise me on what parts I need to purchase for the rebuild and to replace the tube boots? Here is the link to the parts fiche on Boats.net if that helps any: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1992/VENTURE%20ROYALE%20-%20XVZ1300DD/FRONT%20FORK/parts.html Thank you so much, Richard

That difference in venturi diameter will be noticeable, especially at low rpm. You will get less torque because the 1200 isn't pulling as many cfm through the carbs as the 1300 would. Do what you have to do. If 1300 carbs are all you can get, then larger jets may solve the problem. The biggest problem I see is what jet size would make it work to your satisfaction. You might find someone on Ebay who will ship 1200 carbs to the UK. Just curious, why do you need to replace the carbs entirely?

Gary, That's exactly the kind of information I need. You da man! Richard

Hi, First of all, thanks so much for being willing to answer questions. Maybe someday, I'll be in a position to offer advice. I have a very loose (lots of free play) foot shifter. Moving the lever up and down shows me the bushing in the stator housing and the shaft that goes through it don't fit very well. Now, the questions. Gary, I read your reply about getting these bushings from McMaster Carr. I went there and there are many choices. What type did you buy? Drill bushing or Sleeve bearing or something else? Thanks again and I look forward to your reply. Richard

Angel, I pray for both of you. Been there and done that. Life in Christ is exciting. I pray for the Lord to ease your nerves and give you not only peace about what you're doing but joy and a real sense of excitement. This is but one more step in a journey. And what biker doesn't enjoy an adventure? :080402gudl_prv: I wish you well brother, Richard

Took a long screwdriver and pecked on the float bowl covers. Started it up and it is now running on 4 cylinders and not just two. I did a quick sync and readjusted the idle speed. It's performing much better now. Next step is to check the neck bearings. Thank you! to everyone who responded. I love this site! You guys rock, because you are always willing to help, even if it's just to help me scratch my head. :cool10::cool10:

Well, I spent several weeks waiting on brake parts. I didn't run the bike for those two to three weeks. Now that I have the brakes working, I have a new problem. I started it up. Started right away with the choke on but it was running rough. Give it throttle ever so gently, and I can get the rpms up (with choke). After warming up, I can use a little less choke. The rpms don't come down right away when I release the throttle. Choke all the way off and the engine dies. Pulled the airbox and all the sliders look like they are responding well to throttle changes. The right front exhaust and the left rear exhaust are not very hot, just warm. Does this sound like stuck float needles? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/images/smilies/confused24.gif Thanks in advance for any thoughts you may have.

Don't play around with those phillips headed screws anymore. They're too tight and too soft. Save yourself the aggravation and cut a nice straight slot in the top of each one with a Dremel and cut-off wheel. Then you can put a fairly large straight screw driver in the slot and the screws will come out without much back-talk. Then throw away those screws and replace with hex socket cap screws. You can get the appropriate sizes at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace or True Value hardware. They come in stainless or black. The next person to work on those carbs will either be very grateful or at least not pulling their hair out. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/images/smilies/bang%20head.gif

Good morning everyone, Since purchasing a non-running '92 VR back in January, I've gotten it running and have everything working on it except the back/left front brakes. I rebuilt the master cylinder and the rear brake caliper. It wouldn't bleed. I removed the line going to the front at the master cylinder and plugged the master cylinder with a flanged bolt. Back brakes bled out fine. I have intentions to de-link the rear and front brakes, but I want to get this thing fixed first. As I don't yet have the money to upgrade yet. As part of the de-link process, I've read on this site that many people are using YZF-R1 or R6 calipers, so I got a set of blue-star front calipers off an R6. $49 bucks on eBay with no shipping charge. Tested them on the bench and they looked like they were working. After installation, still couldn't bleed the brakes. I got a 65cc syringe and attached a piece of clear tubing to it and tried to pull brake fluid through the line that way. No love there, as the syringe would pull a vacuum but when I let go, it would just snap back. I felt like something was stopped up. I loosened the bleeder up by the handle bars and tried again, same result. I must be stopped up somewhere between the caliper and the top bleeder. Ok, so what now? I went out to the barn and tried the same thing on an '87 donor bike I have. I could pull air through its line just fine. So, I removed that brake line and installed it on my '92. Now when I use the syringe method of bleeding, I can pull brake fluid all the way from the rear master cylinder reservoir to the front left caliper. HOO! RAY! Finished bleeding the brakes and now I have a decent pedal and feel like I can do an upgrade from a clean baseline when the time comes (that translates to, when I get the money). If I hadn't already spent so much money on this bike, I would've already gotten the brake upgrade kit that Skydoc_17 sells and I will. Here's the link to his kit: http://www.venturerider.org/classifi...line-21&cat=22 I post this to help encourage others that it is possible to clean up a 20+ year old brake system. On bikes that have been sitting up for many years, a stopped up brake line might be preventing you from bleeding your brakes. Important: If you have an older bike (20+ years old), it would be in your best interest to replace as much of the old system as you can afford as stopping is so important and no one needs a surprise in an emergency on a high-powered 800 lb. bike. Let's go riding.

1992 Venture Royale. Working on brakes. Is it just me, or does the location of the reservoir for the rear master cylinder make it a real pain to work with? I'm thinking I need to put that thing somewhere else. At least somewhere where I can get the lid off. Yes, I know I can fill it with a syringe or tubing, but I'd rather just put where I can see into it, clean it out if I want to, etc... Anybody ever tried this or am I trying to over-simplify this bike? Thanks, Richard:lightbulb: