Beau-Kat

At least it looks like it has its own fishing pole on the back.

Found this. But still don't know much else. Kinda gets my interest up though. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8061

Snapper lawnmower boots ?? Did I miss a post somewhere?

Got the same issue. Comes and goes on occasion. Currently not working. May work tomorrow, who knows? Cruise works fine.

Joe Michener, who used to be in our chapter of CMA and now is with the Sons of God MC, was alone on his motorcycle and was struck by a car this morning. His left foot had to be amputated up the shin. He is in surgery now to have rod(s) installed in his left thigh bone. Will be in surgery until maybe 11pm. No other known injuries as yet. He is in MUSC’s Surgical Trauma ICU. His wife’s name is Shirley and she is with him @ MUSC. Please pray for physical healing for Joe and heart and spirit comforting for all others involved. Rusty Metts CMA Mission Riders Charleston SC

Ya done good! I know that 1988 color scheme was well worth restoration. According to some, it might not be the fastest color (go ahead Yammer Dan and chime in here). But it sure is the most beautifullist.

Trying to not get too scientific on ya. Was your main breaker panel replaced/upgraded? You say you have 3 circuits tripping. Are they located in one area of the panel, such as being one under the other or side by side? I would assume that with a complete rewire, they did not use any "piggy back" type breakers. In my 30 years as a licensed electrical contractor, I have found that, although these 20 amp piggy back breakers are UL listed, they can transfer heat from one to the other more readily than regular single pole breakers if loaded above about 14 amps or so. Your panel consists of a ground bus, a neutral bus, and two 120VAC buses/legs. One side of your panel has even numbered circuits (poles) and the other side has the odd numbered circuits. As the breakers go down a side of the panel (think circuit numbers 1,3,5,7,9,etc), every other one is fed from the same 120VAC leg. That way a 240VAC breaker, which has one pole situated below the other, feeds from both legs; ie voltage measured between poles #1 and #3 would be 240VAC. Can you tell me the circuit numbers that are tripping? That would identify if they may feed from the same hot leg of the panel. If they feed from different hot legs, and you think the breakers are tripping under very minimal loads, you may possibly have a neutral issue. Could be loose at the service connection, the meter, or the breaker panel. Quite often, people are so concerned with the hot side of the issue that they fail to check the integrity of the neutral part of the circuit. Just fishing for info here to consider a probable cause.

yup! That is cool.

Yes. My 1998 has the spin on filter.

Good thing you didn't toss him the keys. He looks really ham-fisted to me. Probably woulda wrung off your throttle!

My 650 V-star let me it a few years back as the spline on the rear of the driveline had zero grease on it... was nothing left of the splines but brown powder. Very expensive fix... Yup! Been there done that when we had a VStar 650. Pinion spline teeth were reduced to dust. New rear dif (with drive shaft) was over $500 just for parts.

Buy a VMax!

Yes.

Runs the ticks and lice off too!

Pretty cool photo. However, the MM in the background steals your thunder.

If you have an old battery around with even a few volts left in it and a set of cables you can hook them up in parallel and connect the charger. The charger will think your bike's battery isn't totally dead and will begin to charge it. After about 15 to 30 minutes, you can disconnect the old battery and the charger should continue to charge your bike's battery. I've had to do this several times with these new fault detecting chargers that won't attempt to charge a flat dead battery.

That's probably the most helpful advice yet. I should have replaced my seal. Just didn't expect it to be easily damaged in the driveshaft removal and replacement procedure.

Here's a post from the Venturers forum: http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=001006&id=383 Good information, but the author really doesn't say what model Yamaha Venture/Royale/RS/RSTD this came from. I can't see any lubricating holes in these photos. So maybe, something is different from model to model. The diff doesn't have the speedo sensor hole, so it must not be from a 2nd gen Venture or the later model RSTDs. So, I may be only half right in some of my previous posts about this subject. At least I know what I have in my bikes. Questions always lead me to research and education. So it was worth the discussion for me.

Seaking, Hard to tell, but I think that if you look closely, you can maybe see one of the diff fluid lubrication holes at 11 O'clock in the photo in your post.

Maybe this photo of my 1998 VMax diff will shed some light here. See the two oiling holes, one on either side of the pinion nut, that allow diff fluid to lubricate the driveshaft rear spline area. The seal at the rear of the driveshaft keeps that fluid from going past the spline area and leaking out at the gasket-free 4-bolt connection. On a side note, our VStar 650 was a manually greased type of spline area service. Many, including ours, failed and stripped the pinion spline teeth,requiring installation of a new diff unit. I know VStar 1100s also use the holes for lubing that are just like as shown in the photo.

When going back together with the shaft, be careful not to damage the seal in the photo. It's easier than you may think to damage. Then you'll have diff fluid leaking at the 4-bolt/acorn nut joint and slinging on your tire. I know. After installing a new rear tire and servicing the shaft and diff, I was experiencing the "creaking diff". Had to re-align the 4 bolt/acorn nut joint, with the axle inserted but loose, and then tight the four acorn nuts and then the axle. Anyway, creaking went away, but I must have nicked my driveshaft seal and now need to replace it.

Because I already own my perfectly good Vmax diff with 21k on it. I put all of those miles on it before I pulled it off the Vmax. Since I currently own a first gen, a second gen, and a Vmax, I didn't want to just send it off for a gear swap, just in case I wanted to go back to stock on any one of the bikes. Drilling and milling isn't that much of a big deal since I have been mechanicking (but not my professional) for nearly 50 years anyway. Just wondering why the milling was deemed necessary in this case. Could be Pegscraper felt the speedo sensor needed to be a tad closer to the gears for an accurate reading. I'm sure he has more experience in this particular area than I, and I would value his opinion. May not need to do this diff machine work anyway, if I put my sidecar on the Royale, which looks more like the way I will go with this project. I'll just install the diff like it is.

I know this is an old thread, but I have a relevant question. Was wondering why the VMax boss had to be machined flat? I put an RSV diff in my VMax (drilled and tapped for the shock mount and blanked the speedo hole). I pulled out the old VMax diff to compare the boss height on each. Both diff boss (shoulder) heights look the same to me. Looking at the boss on both diffs, I can really see no need to machine the boss flat on the VMax diff when drilling out the speedo hole and tapping the mounting screw for mounting on my RSV. Am I missing something:confused24:? Rusty

So, you planning on selling your MM? Just wondering.

To which year VMax are you referring? My 1998 Vmax has no rev limiter.