About to paint my bike.

[NLAlston]

Hello all.

 

I have decided that it is time to paint my bike. I don't know if many of you remember, but my '83 Venture is pinkish/red in color. It was the only first-Gen Venture I could find, and it just happened to be that color (which I really don't like). Anyway, I am going to paint the bike black. The concern is over my having to paint the certain components of my bike, while yet intact (particularly the fairing & fenders). I have no other choice, and realize that the painting will not look (in any way) even near professional. But that's all right.

 

Being that I have to go about the job as described above, what might be your opinions as to the type of paint that I should use. I was thinking of some spray cans of Enamel (or Urethane, if it comes in such cans) by which to get the job done. I have never attempted such a thing before, and any help in this would be much appreciated.

[Squidley]

Nathan,

Painting can be tricky when you are trying to do it with spray bombs. If you dont have any other means to paint it, meaning a quart or pint sized air sprayer, then I wouyld look for a good quality enamel paint. Make sure that you get one with a very good spray cap that will fan the paint well. getting a cheap can with a cheap spray cap will 99% of the time look...cheap.

Wish I was closer to you, I have all the spray equipment and I love to paint, did it for 6 1/2 years in the service. Let us know if you have any other questions.

[Marcarl]

Well you best off telling us what you know about painting, or maybe better I'll just tell you what I know and how I would do it. Squidleys right, of course, as he always is, the spray cans can be cheap and the air sprayer is the best. Maybe you could rent a sprayer for a while, that would be better. Don't use an airless sprayer, you'll have to do a lot of sanding and cleaning to get the mess off again.

With spray bombs, spend the money to get good quality car paint, not just enammel for household use, although it is a lot cheaper. See what you can find at a local autoparts store. The cheap stuff will wear off quite quickly. Do all your sanding and such before you start to paint, once you have the first paint down, you don't want to make any more dust. Once you are ready to paint you will be ready to do a complete cleanup of the paint room and then let it set for an hour or two so that all the dust settles, Wet the floor before you start, because your walking around will kick up dust. Set out all the items you want to paint so that there will little or no movement during the process. With a lint free cloth (J-Cloth) wipe all the paint areas with some paint thinner, or get some tackcloth which is better for the job. Now walk around all your items checking to make sure that you don't have to lean over something to get at what you need to, or that you'll bump into something on your way around. Make sure you have air circulation so that the oversray can go somewhere and wear a face mask. OK now you can start spraying. Shake the can well, the more the better and shake it continually during use. The first layer goes on very thin and start with the hard parts, not the middles. Do all the corners and folds and high areas first. You should be able to see the primer\old coat through the first layer. Wait about 20 minutes before putting down the second coat, which goes on the same way as the first, hard areas first. Use a continual motion from side to side. Start painting before you sweep onto the part and keep the paint going until you're off the part again. Second coat goes on a little heavier than the first but not too heavy, better too light than to heavy. Now wait half an hour and put down the third coat which goes on the same again as the first, but you can go a little heavier. As you apply the third coat the first two coats will have got rid of most of their thinners and now will suck the thinners out of the third coat, so making an thicker paint that won't run. The third coat maybe your last, it's up to you what it looks like, if you have it all covered and looking good, carefully close up shop so not to disturb any dust and take the rest of the day off. Don't even go in there to take a peek. All coats must be put on in succession so that you have good bonding and end up with a smooth finish, Better more coats thinner than fewer coats thicker, but all must be laid down before they dry completely, so you can't start one day and finish a week later.

Hope this helps and explains somewhat. Maybe more info than needed, and maybe you know it all already, but hey I like typing.

Carl

[SilvrT]

A few links re: painting ...maybe some info in these you can find useful.

 

http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=200376#post200376

 

http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21498

 

http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20529

 

http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21833&highlight=spray

 

http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19284&highlight=spray

 

http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18586&highlight=spray

[NLAlston]

Thanks Suidley.

 

I appreciated your thoughtful offer, which means as much to me as if you had lived close enough to help me with the paint job. I have no experience with painting, and do not have proper equipment. So I may have to go the route of spray bombs. I do happen to have a Porter Cable Pancake Compressor, but it isn't sufficient enough for spraying paint.

 

I know that professionally-painted bike jobs can run well in excess of a thousand dollars, but I wonder if such cost outlays would be indicative of an owner having specialized/custom work done. With someone wanting just a straight-black paint job done (minus trunk & side bags), I wonder how much cheaper it might be.

 

Oh well...I'll work it out somehow. The important thing is that I get rid of this color - as fast as I can, so that I can get back to riding - as soon as I can .

[NLAlston]

Hope this helps and explains somewhat. Maybe more info than needed, and maybe you know it all already, but hey I like typing.

Carl

 

Carl,

 

Thanks much, man. More info than needed? Perish that thought . You provided me with some very helpful information, and I am truly grateful. I surely would have messed up, because I would have let all coats dry completely - before applying additional coats. Not was your info against doing that very helpful to me, but so was everything else that you gave to my attention.

 

I don't know how this bike is going to look, when I finally get into the job & finish it (if, indeed, I have to do the job myself), but - as I told Squidley - it's all about me getting back to riding again. With the trunk and side bags off - as well as the part under the front of the fairing, which wraps around the bottom of the radiator (that is cracked, and will have to go) - my bike is going to look rather anorexic . That's also another reason why I think that the black color would look a lot better.

[NLAlston]

Guys, I had forgot to mention that the only thing I will really have to paint "on" the bike would be the fairing & fenders. The side panels and tank cover could be painted in my basement (woodworking) shop. If I do wind up having to do the job myself, how long should I let the paint cure before I take the bike out for its first 'after-paint' job?

[Squeeze]

Nathan,

 

i think you have to decide which route you want to go.

 

Just give your Ride another Color or getting a Paint Job done.

 

A single Color (black is very often in the Spray Gun at a Painter) shouldn't cost you an Arm and a Leg. And with proper Preparation, this would look good and last a long Time.

 

If you have no Expierence in Painting, you can expect a Result inbetween, "Man, i should have let someone else do it" and "I could have done better". A good Quality Rattle Can isn't cheap anymore. If you choose to try it on your own, maybe it's better to think of black matt.

[NLAlston]

Nathan,

 

i think you have to decide which route you want to go.

 

Just give your Ride another Color or getting a Paint Job done.

 

Hi Squeeze.

 

Mine is not really an issue of indecision - in and of itself. If I could find someone local - or near local - who might be setup to do this kind of work, then the determining element would be the cost factor involved. I haven't, as yet, been able to zero in on anyone who might be able to do it, so it appears that I will be applying my own hands to the task. It doesn't have to be all that good looking. I mean, I can live with job that isn't blotchy - and that doesn't show any runs. I'll just take my time with it, and live with the results .

[Squidley]

Nathan,

Your pancake compressor will do the job of running a spray gun. Like you mentioned your not knowledgeable with painting like that so I can understand it. Carls write up was very good and the most important thing about a nice paint job is to prep it right and keep the area dust free while your painting. If you have other questions ask them or feel free to PM me

[1BigDog]

Nathan, you might want to consider finding an old fender, prepping it and spraying it. This way you can make all the mistakes you want on the fender so that when you are ready to paint your bike, at least you will be somewhat proficient at it.

[DANJ]

Guys, I had forgot to mention that the only thing I will really have to paint "on" the bike would be the fairing & fenders. The side panels and tank cover could be painted in my basement (woodworking) shop. If I do wind up having to do the job myself, how long should I let the paint cure before I take the bike out for its first 'after-paint' job?

 

Nathan,

 

A substantial portion of the cost of such a project is prep and prep materials. I own a body shop, and from time to time a customer comes in with a project like yours. If you have such a shop that you have used, look them up and ask if they will coach you through the prep proceedures and advise on where to get automotive quality materials. Quite often fellers like me get a little kick out of helping with these types of projects. When the coach sees what you have done in the prep and approves the product, pay them to paint it for you. If you go about it that you will be pleased and proud of the results.

 

DJ

[calperin]

Ok, Now I 'm finding out the butcher was a painter too.

 

I need mine in black & grey, but I 'm concern about seing carl sanding the plastics with a knife....

 

:crying:

[Squidley]

Ok, Now I 'm finding out the butcher was a painter too.

 

I need mine in black & grey, but I 'm concern about seing carl sanding the plastics with a knife....

 

:crying:

 

Come on Carlos....I need a paint project to see if I still have it

[Ozark]

Nathan, just a couple of thoughts to add. Patience is the keyword when painting. Don't rush to put on a second coat. Don't hold the spray can too close, causes lots of runs. Don't hold it too far, doesn't cover well. Etc,etc, etc. Practise on some cardboard or metal scrap until you have some feel for spray can painting. I've messed up a lot of good parts with trying to hurry. One other thing you probably already know. Black is a very unforgiving color. Every sag, wrinkle, dust spec, etc will shine like a new penny.

Last of all, GOOD LUCK. :happy65:

[Gearhead]

Nathan,

 

1) Did you get the mechanical issues worked out on this bike?

 

2) Why no trunk or bags?

 

3) Why can't you remove the fairing and fenders for painting? By the time you're done masking everything, you might wish you had.

 

Jeremy

[SilvrT]

Nathan,

 

Your pancake compressor will do the job of running a spray gun. Like you mentioned your not knowledgeable with painting like that so I can understand it. Carls write up was very good and the most important thing about a nice paint job is to prep it right and keep the area dust free while your painting. If you have other questions ask them or feel free to PM me

 

Squidley...how do you figgure a pancake compressor will be adequate? A spray gun generally needs around 6.5 cfm @40psi (or better) ... I've never seen a pancake compressor that can produce that..... they don't hold enuf air generally, nor do the pumps provide sufficient volume all on their own. I just bought a new compressor and I did quite a lot of research on them pertaining to horsepower, tank capacity, and specifically cfm capacity @ 40 psi ... I bought one with a 15 gal tank and 1.6 running hp and that was about the smallest I could find to do the job.

 

?????? am I missing something here? ....

[SilvrT]

Black is a very unforgiving color. Every sag, wrinkle, dust spec, etc will shine like a new penny.

 

:happy65:

 

I'll second that statement !!

[calperin]

Come on Carlos....I need a paint project to see if I still have it

 

Ok, You need a project, I need to paint my bike....

 

Hey Carl, sorry only a joke.

 

Brad, have what?

 

[NLAlston]

Thanks to all for being thoughtful enough to share this very helpful info with me. Absolutely everything given, here, has been taken under advisement, and my confidence level has already been boosted by it. I know that actually doing the job will be a much different story that reading about what to do, but I honestly do feel better armed now. We'll see how I make out .

[Squidley]

Squidley...how do you figgure a pancake compressor will be adequate? A spray gun generally needs around 6.5 cfm @40psi (or better) ... I've never seen a pancake compressor that can produce that..... they don't hold enuf air generally, nor do the pumps provide sufficient volume all on their own. I just bought a new compressor and I did quite a lot of research on them pertaining to horsepower, tank capacity, and specifically cfm capacity @ 40 psi ... I bought one with a 15 gal tank and 1.6 running hp and that was about the smallest I could find to do the job.

 

?????? am I missing something here? ....

 

 

Perhaps for an old style gun a pancake might not be adequate, but most of the guns sold now are HVLP High Volume Low Pressure. You could be correct, but how I paint is triggering the gun often so I dont think it would be an issue. But I have been wrong before, and will continue to be in the future

[Squeeze]

Perhaps for an old style gun a pancake might not be adequate, but most of the guns sold now are HVLP High Volume Low Pressure. You could be correct, but how I paint is triggering the gun often so I dont think it would be an issue. But I have been wrong before, and will continue to be in the future

 

Brad, you're somehow right on the Needs for a adequate Airflow.

 

The HVLP needs not so much Pressure but a Lot of Volume. If the Compressor is running on high Pressure, there a Lot of Air in the Tank. But triggering like a semi-automatic Machine Gun increases the Consumption of Air.

[Marcarl]

Wow what a thread, guy posts a problem, needs some edumacation and gets it all free for the asking. You are a great bunch, what a discussion.

One more point to add at this stage. Right now you just want to get rid of the color, and with that I would agree, but as stated before, once you have the new color on it will only be good for the first few days and then you're going to be saying to yourself,,,,,,,hummm self,,,, there are some runs here, and some rough spots there and man that orange peel doesn't look so good on the trunk.

Sooooo, runs are caused by too much paint tooo fast, orange peel is caused by improper coat application (waiting too long to reapply) or too short a time frame, and usually the rough is caused by dust that you didn't think you had.

I would second the thought to remove alllll the paintable parts, and stay out of the wood shop (maybe better use the kitchen LOL, mamma wants a new look anyways doesn't she?) unless it can be made dust free. You will also appreciate air circulation without raising any dust so pay attention to that issue. Spraying a small part in an inclosed area is nothing to what you are undertaking here.

I have used a direct air compressor (no tank at all) for painting when I was young and in my prime, it worked, but I would rather have a tank and lots of air when I think I need it.

As with any good paint job you should wait at least 1 year..one day before putting the parts back on and then be very careful, scratches will happen easily in the first week or two. After a day, if you can get some sun onto the parts that will really help. Once you get her back together, it's time to ride. Just don't pull any masking too soon, and that will vary depending on the drying \ curing process, which depends on temp and moisture in the air.

[cliffno350]

I noticed one thing I would like to add, your local auto paint stores should be able to put auto quality paint in an arosol can for you it is more expensive but is a better paint IMHO and you can also get some clearcoat, and no one really mentioned wetsanding? I have found I get much better results with a time consuming good wetsand.

[SilvrT]

Perhaps for an old style gun a pancake might not be adequate, but most of the guns sold now are HVLP High Volume Low Pressure. You could be correct, but how I paint is triggering the gun often so I dont think it would be an issue. But I have been wrong before, and will continue to be in the future

 

 

I could also be wrong; however, I seem to recall reading that HVLP guns, while not needing as much air pressure, require more cfm in order to atomize the paint at the lower pressure. So, that would then dictate higher requirements for the compressor. Compressor's air delivery (cfm) is usually greater with higher pressure; however, the combination of HP and tank capacity greatly affects cfm delivery. For example, you can have a 2 horse compressor with a 60 gal tank and get the same cfm capacity of a 4 horse compressor with a 10 gal tank...etc. (that's not necessarilly an exacting comparison)

 

Am I right or wrong in my understanding of this (anyone)? ...