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Rear wheel down towing RSV:


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I have an upcoming job about 1200 miles distant and will be there a good portion of the summer. Planning to drive my SUV and wondering if I can tow my 2005 RSV with the back wheel on the pavement while the front wheel is restrained in a "Slick Willie" hitch assembly? Really like to have the bike with me and not take a trailer.

 

Thanks,

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I would not see any problem ad far as mechanics is concerned, but is your hitch good enough, how much paint do you expect to loose off the bike, how dirty will it get and where is the dirt going to hide are some things to consider.

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+1 on the drive shaft. Exactly what I was thinking. When you tow a car behind say an RV you have to disengage the drive shaft, because the constant turning without the normal lubrication kills the bearings/bushings.

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+1 on the drive shaft. Exactly what I was thinking. When you tow a car behind say an RV you have to disengage the drive shaft, because the constant turning without the normal lubrication kills the bearings/bushings.

 

Not with all cars. some with manual transmissions can be towed in neutral.

 

I carried my 85 Kawasaki to FL from NC in an open trailer in February. It rained a lot on the way. There were so many snowbirds driving to FL on I95 that had salt all over their cars that my bike got covered on the left side with salt. A real bummer. Best way to transport a bike that you aren't riding is in a covered trailer.

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Yes, pull the driveshaft before towing anything more than about 100 feet!! It mostly has to do with gears turning, even in neutral, without any oil pressure!! Also, there is a lesser issue of extra mechanical restriction on the rear wheel causing extra friction, but that is the LESSER issue...

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I've been reading all the responses and though I agree that towing the bike is not a good idea, I disagree that pulling the driveshaft is the solution. I understand the context of the suggestion but, for me at least, it is simply not a viable solution.

 

While it would work, to me it's just not practical. That means that before you leave, you have to put the bike on a lift, remove the saddlebags, pull the mufflers, pull the rear wheel, all to remove the driveshaft. Then you have to put it all back together or at the very least, put the back wheel back on and then make sure you have room in your tow vehicle for the mufflers, saddlebags, etc. You will also need to haul your lift with you or be able to find one at your destination to borrow so that you can pull the wheel, replace the driveshaft, re-assemble everything.

 

WOW....that's just much more than I would want to do. Maybe some of you younger and more energetic types are OK with that.

 

In my opinion, a trailer is the only viable solution. Well, there are others like those pickup bad automatic loaders and etc. but you get the point.

 

Of course I do realize that Rob says that he is going to be there for a good bit of the summer so maybe it's worth all the above. Still, I think that a trailer is the best way to go.

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Thanks to all for the suggestions. The job foreman says I can store my rail trailer at his home for the duration and and the problem is alleviated.

 

I don't have an original owners, or users manual for this bike as the original owner misplaced it. I will look to get one acquired for something so simple as programming the radio was a real "chore" on this system.

 

Thanks again,

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Thanks to all for the suggestions. The job foreman says I can store my rail trailer at his home for the duration and and the problem is alleviated.

 

I don't have an original owners, or users manual for this bike as the original owner misplaced it. I will look to get one acquired for something so simple as programming the radio was a real "chore" on this system.

 

Thanks again,

 

https://yamahapubs.com/

 

You will get a reprint at this site. The best way to get one may be ebay. I bought an original owners manual for my Gen I on ebay and it has a fold out large wiring diagram in the back of the manual which is kind of neat.

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