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Dodge Ram question


bj66

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I have a 2012 Ram 2500 truck. Right front tire is wearing funny. Cupping on the outside, 3 other tires are good. Figured I hit a pothole and knocked front end out of alignment. Took truck into a local shop that I trust to align front end and rotate the tires. The shop called back and told me to come get it thy need parts. They say it needs upper and lower ball joints. Truck has just under 56000 miles. I called the dealer and talked to service manager. He said it's hard to believe that it would need new joints, but also said Ram trucks have a higher tolerance in movement in their joints than other brands. Sounds funny to me. I don't think play in ball joints is good at all. Movement isn't acceptable......looking online a lot of stuff comes up with ball joints and Dodge trucks. So I guess this is a heads up if you run a Dodge Ram. Anybody else having this kind of problem?

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Yep. I have a 2003 Dakota Quad Cab & had it fixed the 1st time under warranty, then again a year later, needs it again, but not going to do anything about it. Common problem. Hardly ever drive it. I take the bike everywhere I go. I've only put 250 miles on the truck this year.

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I have been told by a friend who had spent 20 some years as a Dodge mechanic that upper and lower ball joints can be very difficult to assess correctly. Most mechanics put the truck on the rack then shake the wheels. Is the movement they feel too much? Well in this world of liability yup.... put in new ones or we could get sued if something should happen. When I was going to buy my Jimmy... used.... I took it to the mechanic the company I worked for used to service the fleet. They told me it needed uppers and it would cost so much.... I took that off the purchase price when I bought it. A few months later I took it to our neighbourhood service center.... they said the ball joints were all good. 50,000 miles later no issues with ball joints still.

Take it to another shop and have it re-assessed.... maybe it does need new ball joints. I believe shocks can also cause tire cupping.

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If front wheels are having wear issues something is bad. ball joints, tie rods something has been made not happy. There is no gauge or wear indicator for the ball joints or tie rods. It is simply a feel type thing for the mechanic. If there is play in those items they can set the front end and when you back out of the parking lot the alignment is off again. So good parts are essential.

There were a couple 3 years they had issues with upper ball joints on the mid sized dakota/durangos. 2001-2003 I think. We had a recall and replaced the uppers. The ones I put in when in dealer were MOOG. We have a 2002 durango and I just put all new uppers and lowers in mine @ 160k. My Ram 2500 is a 96 and I put all new ones in it a couple years back around 110k. your local roads are a big factor, pot holes, your drive way transition parking lots all jar the joints. 56k is not terrible for uppers, lowers will usually go further. What I ran into with the wifes Durango was the uppers were bad and one of the lowers was iffy to me. I figured I'm going to spend the money to align it so I will just replace them all. but my labor is free and I didnt have to pay anyone to do the work besides the alignment. It sounds as though the bad part could be isolated to the one side. You should be able to jack up the wheel at question get weight off it. Then use a large bar or something to see if you can get movement up and down in that wheel, if so then you have a bad ball joint. but that would indicate a lower to me, an upper you have to see if you can get movement out of the upper control arm which is a bit more tricky.

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I have an 02 Ram 1500 4X4. I get the tires changed out each year. Summer/Winter tread. last time the shop told me I needed new ball joints. The truck has about 190,000 miles on it but there are no issues with the steering or suspension. No looseness or vibration. Not sure if I should change the joints out. I am on a very tight budget right now.

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Typically if ball joints are bad you will hear some kind of clunking when pulling into or out of a parking lot or pavement change like that where the wheels go over a bump. Starts out subtle and when bad will be a big clunk.

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I grew up with the guys at this shop and I trust them. Owner was my best friend when I was growing up. My right side is showing wear and I made a comment on hitting a pothole etc. They told me that my left side is worse than my right which surprised me. Our county roads are atrocious. County is way behind on upkeep and maintenance. Lots of flooding in the 10 years prior wrecked roads along with semis hauling grain to market. Roads aren't built to withstand the weight changes over the years. County budgets can't begin to cover it all. Asphalt road leading to my house is patched with gravel as we speak and has been for 2 years. Not a good situation at all. So I am not surprised my truck needs work.

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My memory tells me that dodge used to put a non adjustable ball joint in from the factory , as opposed to one that is off center and rotates (off center cam) as to push the spindle in and out for alignment purposes. This may be what is needed just to get an alignment done, not that the joints were worn out, only non adjustable.

Best of luck.

Bill

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I have an 02 Ram 1500 4X4. I get the tires changed out each year. Summer/Winter tread. last time the shop told me I needed new ball joints. The truck has about 190,000 miles on it but there are no issues with the steering or suspension. No looseness or vibration. Not sure if I should change the joints out. I am on a very tight budget right now.

 

As the old saying goes... "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" and it sounds to me like it ain't broke enuf ...

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The lower ball joint typically supports the weight. So, even if it is worn the weight of the vehicle keeps the ball pressed tightly in its socket. There probably is a specified amount of play that is acceptable and the alignment shops may or may not know what that is or believe it.

 

And, I have seen a tool that measured play in a ball joint although it was a long time ago. A guy I went to college with had a 60's Mercury Comet that he dropped off at the local Kmart to have the advertised special ball joints installed. They called him up and told him the ball joints were within spec. So, he invited me to go with him and check. The mechanic had a tool attached to the car that did indeed measure the play. On this particular car and I think all Ford cars back then with a similar suspension, the allowed play was 0.250" or a quarter of an inch. Hard to believe but it's true. I had a Mustang back then it drove the alignment guys nuts when they told me it needed new ball joints and I told them it was within factory specs. They would pull out the chart and sure enough, it said 0.250". Then they would say, "Well, they need replacement anyway." Eventually, I replace them just to shut up the alignment guys. The new ball joints were made tighter than the Ford joints.

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A few weeks ago, I replaced the lower ball joints in my 2002 F150 4x4 Scab (134k miles). They are held on the control arm by press fit and a clip. After taking the clip out, they have to be hammered out. then a ball joint press was needed to press the new joints back in. I'm a tool addict and bought the press instead of trying to borrow one. My wife will have one heck of a yard sale to get rid of all my tools when I kick the bucket!! :rotf:

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The lower ball joint typically supports the weight. So, even if it is worn the weight of the vehicle keeps the ball pressed tightly in its socket. There probably is a specified amount of play that is acceptable and the alignment shops may or may not know what that is or believe it.

 

And, I have seen a tool that measured play in a ball joint although it was a long time ago. A guy I went to college with had a 60's Mercury Comet that he dropped off at the local Kmart to have the advertised special ball joints installed. They called him up and told him the ball joints were within spec. So, he invited me to go with him and check. The mechanic had a tool attached to the car that did indeed measure the play. On this particular car and I think all Ford cars back then with a similar suspension, the allowed play was 0.250" or a quarter of an inch. Hard to believe but it's true. I had a Mustang back then it drove the alignment guys nuts when they told me it needed new ball joints and I told them it was within factory specs. They would pull out the chart and sure enough, it said 0.250". Then they would say, "Well, they need replacement anyway." Eventually, I replace them just to shut up the alignment guys. The new ball joints were made tighter than the Ford joints.

 

The ole Mustangs, Mavericks, Fairmonts or the 70's were terrible. LOL I owned a couple of those and a Merc Monarch (Granada) They always seemed to squeak and rattle. With .250 slop allowed I guess that would explain that.

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Worn ball joints will cause the camber to become out of spec. If they're bad enough they will cause the wheel to oscillate at speed which causes tires to cup (as will the wheels being out of balance). When camber and toe are out of adjustment you usually get feathering and or inside/outside tread wear on the tire. I was a dealership alignment guy for 2 years and a Dodge mechanic for 4. NOTHING surprises me on a Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth. Mind you I also replaced a TON of tires at the Lexus store under warranty for a vibration at 160mph.

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I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 3.7L I have 200,000 miles on her. last year was a major suspension work ( upper and lower boll joints, new shocks, new rotors & a new a/c motor & Belt) I drive like I'm on eggs all the time. this truck has never seen 75 mph. EVER !!!!. I get there when I do.:mo money::mo money::mo money::crying::fiddle:

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I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 3.7L I have 200,000 miles on her. last year was a major suspension work ( upper and lower boll joints, new shocks, new rotors & a new a/c motor & Belt) I drive like I'm on eggs all the time. this truck has never seen 75 mph. EVER !!!!. I get there when I do.:mo money::mo money::mo money::crying::fiddle:

 

That is how to get them to last for a looonnng time. I have a friend who drives like that and puts at least 240k miles on all of his cars. Me, I have a heavy foot. I've calmed down a lot from my misspent youth but I still drive aggressively for an old fart.

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Wifes Durango has had 4 upper ball joints (2 were recall changed) 2 lower joints and 1 tie rod end I think. Truck has about 160k on it. My 96 2500 Ram has about 120k on it. 2 yr ago I put all new upper and lower ball joints in it. But neither goes off pavement much just highways and our roads where I'm at in Fl are pretty decent.

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