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any idea


Rick Haywood

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Rick I may have an option for you. I make aplug and play ignition by-pass kit that I also have an oprion to make it keyless. My thought is you could possibly put a generic automotive type switch in say on the left behind the seat where some folks put an aux power plug. I was just looking the other day for another fellow and I think they run like 12 bucks. my by-pass keyless kit is 30 shipped in US. If interested drop me an pm.

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You already replaced one? You say you did a check on the fuses. I hate to ask, did you ohm them out? Mine wouldn't start, nothing no power. I'm thinking the battery is dead and its less than a year old. I had just got off a long trip to Canada. So I looked stuff over it all looked good. Even the main fuse, it was pretty dirt and ugly but "looked" ok. Finally ohmed it out and the fuse was bad. How it went bad and never shoed a burn spot I don't know. How about any relays involved in the circuits, or if there is fuses under the fairing to the gauge pack. Is there a connection under the fairing where it plugs in? How's it look. Not picking on ya just throwing ideas out there. lol

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OK Learned a couple things today. I checked all the fuses and they all showed good so I checked them with a meter and the turn signal fuse tested bad even though it looked good. Lesson Learned. I also learned that if your turn signal fuse is bad then you turn signals, brake lights, fuel gauge and speedometer will not work. Who would have thunk it.

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OK Learned a couple things today. I checked all the fuses and they all showed good so I checked them with a meter and the turn signal fuse tested bad even though it looked good. Lesson Learned. I also learned that if your turn signal fuse is bad then you turn signals, brake lights, fuel gauge and speedometer will not work. Who would have thunk it.
On the 1st gen a lot of those functions and all signal function junction in the emergency hazard switch. Go figure, it took me a while to figure that out. I always use a meter to check fuses because there have been a lot of times when fuses look good but are bad under the spot that you can not see. I'll keep this in mind since I have a MM also.

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OH MY I got one of these stump the panel questions right, before one of the masters. I don't know what to think. Rick experience is what made me think of the ohm out deal. Like I said I got off a 3300+ mile trip. Never had a lick of trouble. 2 days later when to go to store and nothing, not a click no lights nothing. I had to read an hours worth of threads to figure out where to look first. It boggles the mind that the new type fuses can look good and not have continuity. The old glass jobs I had some of them burn the filament at the end and you couldn't tell. I guess I need to look into these here new fangled LED fuses. Glad you got it fixed.

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Now that someone mentioned those LED fuses....littelfuse indicator fuse....I want to replace mine with those....I found in the parts list that there are 8-10amp - 3-15amp - 3-5amp....does that make sense? And are they ATO fuses ?

 

My bike is in storage so its easier to ask.

 

Tks

 

Keith

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Jeff, The led lights when it's blown, I need some too. . . Why does Jeff hide the good stuff until someone else has a problem? No rum balls for U

 

I'm just full of stuff........ Just ask anyone.....

 

No rum balls for WHO???? Ahh, I see it now, "No rum balls for U":rasberry:

 

I found them at Auto Zone, but they do not appear on the Auto Zone website.

 

Check your local auto parts store for Smart Glow Fuse made by LittleFuse.

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-00940400ZGLO-Smart-Assorted-Multi-Pack/dp/B0000TX800]Amazon.com: Littelfuse 00940400ZGLO Smart Glow Blade Style Assorted Multi-Pack Fuse - 42 Piece: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51UJdUpQt-L.@@AMEPARAM@@51UJdUpQt-L[/ame]

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LITTLEFUSE-15-0000-MINI-BLADE-SMART-GLOW-FUSE-KIT-36-Pack-5-10-15-20-25-30-Amp-/290935217998

 

http://www.wiringproducts.com/smart-glow-fuses

Edited by Flyinfool
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