KeithR

Welcome to the CPAP club ! Its been 7 years for me but should have had it many more years ago. I was a very loud, I'm told in the snoring dept. I was having horrific nightmares which always resulted in me in a situation where I was losing my breath....buried in snow etc.....was not nice and then it would turn into a panic attack. Thank goodness that's behind me. I've had maybe 2 occurrences in the last 7 years since using my CPAP. I used the Resmed S9 for the first 6 years - not a bad machine. I recently got the Airsense 10 and really like it. It has automatic start/stop when you put the mask on or off...no fooling with the switch. The water container is a little easier to fill as well. Good luck.....they should let you try several masks till you get one that you feel most comfortable with. ( I travel with 5 riding buddies and 4 of us use CPAP's ) Keith

Guess I belong to the old fart club - #301

"Service" is slowly becoming a thing of the past. I just retired from a automotive dealership and since I have left I've heard nothing only complaints from customers I've run into. We went from a family run dealership to one of the corporate giants. Bottom line is priority one forget customer relationships and service. Just look at the Canadian news - grocery store giant laying off full time unionized employees and hiring all part time people so they don't have to pay them benefits. I'm doubtful the part timers are going to give a crap about customer service. It's a changing world and I'm not so sure I like it.

I might as well add mine. 1977 750K Honda. Much younger and more hair then !

Is there a way to bench test the pump that I'm going to use as a spare with the new points installed ? Thanks Keith

I installed a LED bulb because I didn't want to do any modifications. For the driving lights I used a 4-1/2" LED sealed lamp and only had to modify the bolt that connects the lamp bucket to the signal light. It was too long and I had to cut it down so the lamp housing would fit. I prefer not to ride at night and was more concerned about being seen. Keith

I have been wondering if when I had regulator/rectifier the summer before. I had a used one on there until I could get a OEM one that was putting out a tad too much voltage that would have caused that severe burning of the points ? Keith

I ordered a set to rebuild my old pump from Fortnine. https://fortnine.ca/en/k-l-universal-fuel-pump-point-switch-kit-18-4615 Keith

I'm going to replace those points and have a spare pump. Might be worth having a look at your points to avoid trouble down the road.

I went for one major ride this summer and when I returned home my bike wouldn't start after I parked it. I suspected the fuel pump - had no click click. I replaced the fuel pump and all is well. This is a picture of the points in my old pump - I'm guessing they were flat at one time? I've noticed for a couple of summers the bike didn't seem to have the power it once had - I'm guessing this was the reason! Roughly 61000KM's - 38,000 miles 2006 Midnight Venture Keith

Thanks for the info. I'll check that out! Just the first 3 digits of the part number changed so it should work. I'll let you know. Thanks Keith

Would anyone have a front (rear maybe the same) signal light Lens Rim they want to part with ? See picture attached Thanks Much Keith

I would think anything isolated would not be protected. We installed that style for 2-3 years and saw no need to replace any of the bars. But then again it wasn't long before they moved away from that style. Before that it was a sheet metal screw attached on the opposite side from the module connected by a wire. It will be interesting to see what comes next. If they work so well it would make you wonder why so many styles in a few yrs?. And I wonder why the vehicle manufacturer wouldn't install them for the cost if it was going to protect the body panels of their vehicles.

I was the service manager at a dealership where we sold those things as part of a protection package. The package was very expensive but you were mostly paying for the warranty. I put through very few claims for rust and we live in the land of snow and salt for 6 months of the year. I also didn't see any problems with rust with those that didn't have them. Those are older technology - the newest style just plug in under your dash where a tech would plug in a diagnostic tool.Those 2 bars would be mounted in the rain gutters under the hood. You would have to scratch the paint under them in order for them to make contact with the vehicle. One thing you have to keep in mind is any part of your vehicle that is isolated by rubber won't get the charge passing thru it so you may have to install a jumper wire - if the pan of a pickup is mounted on rubber mounts the current can't pass thru. I'm sure every model of vehicle has different qualities of metal in them but I only know about imports and in our extreme area rust wasn't an issue either way. The rep that we bought them from was trying to sell me a demo tool that would show a customer by touching the rotor how the charge was going thru the vehicle (it did show that it did) - I wouldn't go near it as that was the major issue with rotors etc in our area was rust and our techs spent most of their time servicing/replacing rotors that's exposed metal tho). One thing to keep in mind is the parasitic draw when you add something that that's running all the time - may cause battery issues. I do know the manuf did extensive testing on them and there was nothing official said but they gave me the impression it was a gimmick - again you were mostly paying for the warranty that most likely you wouldn't use. A money maker for the finance department. They would be linked to the manuf but the manuf wouldn't put their name on them which would give you some doubt about the technology. I was also told that its similar technology that is used on railway lines to prevent rust. They say every so far on a railway line there are box's mounted that do the same sort of thing - I dunno we don't have any trains on our island. Also Hydro stations use something similar on their surge tanks to prevent rust ? For what they cost its worth a try I guess. I'm not so sure that you would need more than one - we never had to. Just my opinions from what I experienced working at a dealership.

So I am seeing the head of the bolt that I need to get rid of then lift the switch off the studs - then remove the studs that are left with vise grips. Am I on the right track? How so you install new bolts? Tks

I guess the next question is - whats involved in removing the ignition. I assume drill out the what looks like the head of a bolt on either side ? I have until next spring to do this so I can take it to a locksmith and check. Thanks for the help ! Keith

Ya I hear ya....Not worth getting stranded somewhere.I was told the ignitions are on back order out of Japan - not so sure about that. I'm finished riding for this year so I guess I can wait. I had a stranded situation a couple of weeks ago when my regulator/rectifier crapped out....wasn't fun.

I was hoping that was the problem I had a new unused key and its the same unfortunately.

I'm having trouble turning my key (2006 M/V) I can get it to work if I move it around and sometimes it will turn. I have lubed it and hasn't made a difference. Has anyone ever had an ignition rekeyed by a locksmith ? Its another one of those not so cheap items. I'm not interested in going the used route...pretty expensive on Ebay. New here $308 cdn. Any suggestions. Thank You Keith

Well one thing to think about is if you are going to use it on your bike things will get scratched pretty good if they are metal. I have a leather key fob from Yamaha that I bought years ago for that reason. Maybe Nanci Rogers from Ace High Leathers can come up with something ? Just a thought ! Keith

I have had a slight leak from what I think is my left rear valve cover gasket. I did tighten it a little cause I understand it's a shoulder bolt and you have to be careful. I just wipe it with a tissue every now and then and it takes a long time to accumulate there again. I only get a chance to ride maybe 4- 5000 kms a year so its parked alot. If I'm going to replace the gaskets it would be good idea to do a valve adjustment but I don't think in my case it's severe enough to justify the expense.

Tks for the link. Good deal for southerners not so much for use northern folk. I'm inno hurry I'm just back from my annual off the island jaunt. It will be next summer before I will need a new bag. Thanks. Again

I checked the distance from the back of the backrest to the rider backrest with my trunk moved back and I can squeeze 14". Can't figure out where the 19" would be. I've sent a email to Saddlemen to se what they say. Tks

I'm thinking about ordering a BR4100 Saddlemen bag but based on the dimensions it seems pretty deep 19" front to back. Has anyone ever tried one or seen one mounted ? https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/saddlemen-br4100-dresser-back-seat-bag.html Thanks Keith

Good deal.....Motomaster changed the arms on the newer model and they are a bit short. i have both and ended up taking the jack off the newer on and put it on the old model with the longer arms. The newer one has 11 inch arms. You can't go wrong with the adapter but it does need a stable base...maybe a couple of patio stones embedded in the gravel.