uechi kid Posted December 14, 2011 Share #1 Posted December 14, 2011 I am going to upgrade my stator soon. I can't seem to find a "how to" in the second gen tech section. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jemorrisonjr Posted December 14, 2011 Share #2 Posted December 14, 2011 IMHO.... not worth the problems that could come with tearing apart the motor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sylvester Posted December 14, 2011 Share #3 Posted December 14, 2011 I agree. You would need a lot of drain to qualify for this procedure. I have installed a half dozen of them for friends but I have the original. I run heated jacket and gloves in the winter without any problem. LED lights cut much of the use of amps and there are LED headlights now available and they are getting better. Sealing the leads and soldering the connections is a PITA to get right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydoc_17 Posted December 14, 2011 Share #4 Posted December 14, 2011 Hey Rich, On the Second Gens., the 1996 to 2001 models had the "lower amperage" unit, and a stator upgrade would be an excellent choice. From 2002 to 2005, the High output stator upgrade I offer would give you a 10 to 15 percent increase. After 2005, Yamaha has wound as much wire on the stator core as can be wound. So, in your case, "it is what it is". This is to say that if your Stator and Regulator/Rectifier is functioning properly. Earl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyR Posted December 15, 2011 Share #5 Posted December 15, 2011 Hey Rich, On the Second Gens., the 1996 to 2001 models had the "lower amperage" unit, and a stator upgrade would be an excellent choice. From 2002 to 2005, the High output stator upgrade I offer would give you a 10 to 15 percent increase. After 2005, Yamaha has wound as much wire on the stator core as can be wound. So, in your case, "it is what it is". This is to say that if your Stator and Regulator/Rectifier is functioning properly. Earl I hadn't seen this before. Another item for the the list of differences on the RSV's and since 2005 was the first 'new' RSTD, I presume it also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAINEAC Posted December 15, 2011 Share #6 Posted December 15, 2011 The guy is looking for a tech article and he gets a few guys trying to talk him out of replacing his stator.... Maybe he NEEDS a new stator and he wants an upgrade... I'm on my 3rd and both replacements were of the higher output variety and if this one goes I'll get another... Here's the link man... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=993&highlight=stator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotrod Posted December 15, 2011 Share #7 Posted December 15, 2011 I have a 2007 RSV.If what SkyDoc is saying is true, then replacing your stator with the High Output stator would not be an improvement over stock in the 2005 and later.If that is the case, then why not just replace the current stator with an 2005 and later and not have to cut out the connectors and hard wire and heat shrink the connectors.Does the 2005 and later have upgraded connectors to with stand the increased voltage and heat?I'm not doubting SkyDoc's knowledge, I just have never read or heard of this before.It would be nice if this is true. It would let me spend that $200 on something else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyR Posted December 15, 2011 Share #8 Posted December 15, 2011 I have a 2007 RSV.If what SkyDoc is saying is true, then replacing your stator with the High Output stator would not be an improvement over stock in the 2005 and later.If that is the case, then why not just replace the current stator with an 2005 and later and not have to cut out the connectors and hard wire and heat shrink the connectors.Does the 2005 and later have upgraded connectors to with stand the increased voltage and heat?I'm not doubting SkyDoc's knowledge, I just have never read or heard of this before.It would be nice if this is true. It would let me spend that $200 on something else I read SkyDoc to say that the 3rd version 2nd gen stator started after 2005, ie,in 2006. Maybe Earl could clarify, although checking the printsets on BikeBandit for different eco's would likely tell the story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted December 15, 2011 Share #9 Posted December 15, 2011 Thought the stator's were all the same from 99 up I also have never heard of them being different as well. would love to know tho, as I have a 2K and run all kinds of crap through it and it seems to be fine with the load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeWa Posted December 15, 2011 Share #10 Posted December 15, 2011 Looking at Yamaha's part index for the Venture since 2000 I get listings for three stators. 4XY-81410-00-00 , 4XY-81410-01-00 and 4XY-81410-02-00 with the 02 being the latest. It superceeds the other Yamaha part numbers. I cannot tell if there is any difference in their specification though. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted December 15, 2011 Share #11 Posted December 15, 2011 Maybe I'm wrong here, but doesn't the rectifier control or limit the stator output?? That was one of the issues addressed when Dano put together that Shindengen Rectifier group buy. The newer rectifier will allow up to twice the needed amps of the OEM rectifier. The OEM limited to aprox. 26amps and the Shingenden allowing up to 50 amps output, and therefore able to handle higher amp demands for cold weahter gear. It's been a while since the discussion so memory may have faded..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAINEAC Posted December 15, 2011 Share #12 Posted December 15, 2011 My RSV is an 03 and my higher output stator appears to be just that... It seems to put out more juice than the original... I never ran any heated stuff but I've been running 55W passing lamps pretty much since I got it.. Running in traffic at low RPMs I would end up with a low battery at times with the original stator but didn't happen with the HO stator... As far as removing the plug with the HO stator it's probably a good idea even if you're going with a stock stator... My original stator showed burn marks on the plug.. That plug is barely adequate in ideal situations,,, Add vibration, Water, and other stuff that happens in the real world and it's likely to fail at some point... It's the weak link in a barely adequate charging system IMHO... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted December 15, 2011 Share #13 Posted December 15, 2011 It does not matter how many amps the regulator can handle, The RR can not put out more amps than the stator can put in to it. If the bike askes for more amps than the stator has to give, then the voltage drops down under the 14V needed for charging and you start to pull power from the battery. The regulator only controls the voltage, it is the stator that has to be able to put out the amps. And the actual output will be dependent on what the bike draws. if the bike only asks for 1 amp, then the stator and RR will only output 1 amp regardless of how much more they can do. Putting in a stator that can deliver more amps than the RR can handle, can cause the magic blue electrical smoke to leave the RR. I know that this is one of those things that non electrical people have a hard time getting their heads around, and I ain't the best splainer out here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted December 15, 2011 Share #14 Posted December 15, 2011 Maybe I'm wrong here, but doesn't the rectifier control or limit the stator output?? That was one of the issues addressed when Dano put together that Shindengen Rectifier group buy. The newer rectifier will allow up to twice the needed amps of the OEM rectifier. The OEM limited to aprox. 26amps and the Shingenden allowing up to 50 amps output, and therefore able to handle higher amp demands for cold weahter gear. It's been a while since the discussion so memory may have faded..... The combination of the two units, upgrade stator and the Shindengen R/R made a huge difference on my 1st gen. When I was done I couldn't put enough load on it to drop it to 13.5. The more I'd add the R/R pulled the charge right back up. Now running down the road with EVERYTHING on I never drop below 14.2 The OEM stator and R/R would run under 13.5 with the same load and bottom out at 12.7 at idle. Don't see those numbers any more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uechi kid Posted December 15, 2011 Author Share #15 Posted December 15, 2011 The guy is looking for a tech article and he gets a few guys trying to talk him out of replacing his stator.... Maybe he NEEDS a new stator and he wants an upgrade... I'm on my 3rd and both replacements were of the higher output variety and if this one goes I'll get another... Here's the link man... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=993&highlight=stator Thanks for the link. I also appreciate the rest of the comments here. I learn a lot from these kind of conversations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted February 10, 2012 Share #16 Posted February 10, 2012 I have ordered my Buckeye HO Stator and will be installing it soon, Will I need a heavier rectifier for the 2nd gen as well? If so how do I find one? figure if I am going this far I might as well add that if need be. Thanks for any help. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted February 10, 2012 Share #17 Posted February 10, 2012 You would not need to change the R/R if it's working properly BUT if you go back and read posts #11 here and follow the link to the older post on the Shindengen R/R it might explain the pros of doing so. I did Buckeyes upgrade several years ago and did the Shindengen upgrade last year. What a change in charging performance! I can't load this system down to an undercharge state now. The OEM R/R will only use what it was designed for no matter what you throw at it. The Shindengen will offer a lot more. Great combo if you ask me. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted February 10, 2012 Share #18 Posted February 10, 2012 Mike I do want to go the distance if I will be going this far and just get it done before riding season, so could you give me links to what I need when you have time please ? And will this new R/R be just a plug and play? Thanks so much for your info bro. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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