Hotrod

I finally got the time to swap my calipers and m/c. I used calipers from a 2005 Roadstar 1700 and the m/c from a 2007 with a 14mm bore.I used the stock Roadstar lower lines that came with the calipers.I will order braided lines as soon as funds become available.I also used the stock Venture splitter and HH pads.This is the way this bike should have come from the factory.These things will make the front end do a nosedive.I am very happy as of now, and do know that it would be better with braided lines.There have been times with the stock setup,it didn't want to stop as fast as I needed.I was lucky.I decided to do this swap, and I am very glad I did.A big Thank You to Big Iz for his great write up on his conversion, and to everyone that helped answer questions and offered help.This is definitely worth the time and money to do.This is the best safety feature that you can do for this bike,in my opinion.This site has saved me a lot of money over the years,but if this prevents an accident,it will be priceless.

I have seen several posts where members have installed the Ivan's jet kit,but I have not seen anyone post any after riding impressions.Increased acceleration,fuel economy,overall rideability?I' m thinking of ordering one, but would like some input before I dive into a major project.I installed a Dynojet jet kit in my Suzuki 250 ATV and it completely woke it up.It will now keep up with a stock Suzuki 400 almost dead even from start to WOT.I was just wondering if it was a very noticeable improvement.Working on the Venture is a lot more work and complications than my little ATV,but if it is anywhere close in the change in performance,it will be worth the money and effort to install.I know several here have installed the Vmax rear to improve the performance, but I like the stock gearing.Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You Prairiehammer. That is what I needed. I guess I was typing while you were posting.The annealing that you mentioned, Is that to be able to reuse the originals without replacing with new? I do have a butane torch to be able to heat them up.

First of all , let me say a big Thank You to everyone for all the help, especially BratmanXj for his kind offer.I think I need 8 , 2 for each caliper, 2 for the splitter, and 2 for the M/C.I was going to order 10,just to be safe be safe.Condor, thanks for the link.I do not own a micrometer. I was just hoping that someone knew what size they were to be able to order some, and the deal at Mcmaster is very good, but I still do not know what size.Oh, forgot to say that I ordered calipers with lower hoses from a 2005 Roadstar and a 14mm M.C. They are supposed to be delivered on Monday.I wanted to order new braided hoses,but finances says that will have to wait.Thanks again to all for your help.

Does anyone know what size crush washers I would need for this swap? Yamaha wants $4 each for them.I think they are 10 mm but I am not sure.I can get them much cheaper online if I just knew the size. I would like to not pay as much for washers as I did for the calipers.I called the dealer and they couldn't tell me.Any help is truly appreciated.If all else fails, I will take 1 to a local auto store and hope they have something to match.

Can you use the stock lower lines or do you have to use the roadstar lower lines or have custom ones made up? Trying to get it all purchased and on hand to have everything,hopefully go smooth.

Thanks for all the help,It is nice to talk to other people that have already done it and get good advice. I really appreciate all the input. It makes the choice easy.

It is about time to replace my front brake pads. I have found a set of R-1 calipers and the 14 mm master cylinder at a pretty good price.My question is, would it be worth the money, time, and aggravation of changing these out , or just order a set of EBC HH pads, which seems to be the pad of choice,for the stock calipers.I have the stock pads now.I figure it is gonna cost at least $300 to swap out to the R-l calipers and necessary parts to make it work without replacing the lines.That will be over $100 in addition.I do not mind spending the money if the difference is that great, just do not if I can get close to that effect with the stock setup with EBC pads or similar.Suggestions?.Any help or comments are welcome.

I bought the JIS screwdrivers I have from McMaster-Carr.Definitely worth having.No more stripped screw heads.

I found the problem.I took videoarizona's advice and checked my coil and found that a wire had come loose. I had made a 2 into 1 jumper wire when I added the tach and those 2 wires had pulled out of the single connector that attached to the coil.I don't understand how the tach was still working,but as soon as I reattached the wire and turned it over,I had fire at the plug,which I did not have before.Glad to get it fixed, and best of all it only cost $12 for membership to this forum.I have been a member since 2007,but I rarely post.I hope this can help someone else.I had read on here that these bikes would run on 3 cylinders and you can't really tell.Now I am a believer.Thanks to everyone for the help.

I changed the plugs and started the bike up for a few minutes.The right front pipe (#2) was cold compared to the rest.I guess I have a blocked pilot jet on that cylinder as my tach is wired into that coil and it is working fine.I will try some seafoam or techron and see if that works.If not,I will have to pull the carbs unless someone has a better alternative.

I have a 2007 RSV.My best friend has a 2004 RSV.Last weekend we took a round trip of about 180 miles.90 miles there and we came back home the say way.When we fueled up before we came home,he took 2.22 gallons and mine took 2.91 gallons.This was with non-ethanol gas,as that is all I use in the bike.When we got home,I was at 3/4 of a tank and his was only 1 bar off from full.I know this is not accurate , but that puts me at about 30 mpg and him in the low 40's.Mine used to get 42 to 45 because I have checked it.Both bikes have K&N air filters.His has stock pipes and mine has street glide pipes.I also have pilot jets adjusted 1/2 turn out from the stock setting.My bike has 14,000 miles and his has 62,000.Plugs were changed at 8,500 miles and I synched both bikes carbs about 6 months ago.I will change the plugs first,but the bike seems to run fine with no missing. I have read about the problems with the #3 coil,and will do the pipe warming test when I install the new plugs.From what I read on the coil failures,it is suspected to be the cap and the resistor inside the cap that is the problem.If it does turn out to be the coil,can you buy just the cap and resistor without having to buy the whole coil? I don't think it is fuel related (pilot jet plugged)because I run Sta-Bil all the time in my fuel and use fuel injector cleaner about 2 to 3 times a riding season and it is stored that way when not being ridden.I have been wrong before.I bought a can of seafoam to run through it, just in case.If any one has any suggestions , they would be much appreciated.I do ride a little more aggressive than he does.He came from a GoldWing and tends to shift before I do.I usually don't shift till about 3,500 to 4,000 RPM,but I can't see it being that much of a difference.From what I have read,that is where everyone is getting the best mileage and power, and it used to get a lot better mileage in the past.

Lube all the pivot points on your shifter linkage.Mine got hard to shift and I lubed the linkage and it cured my problem.I used white lithium spray in a can.

Check your Y pipe connections on both sides where they are crimped to the main pipe.Mine had a leak and were sucking in air and causing popping after I had plugged the AIS.Yamaha crimped these instead of welding and they leak.I used a putty epoxy like JB Weld and kneaded it into a small like rope and wrapped the pipe and pushed it into the gap and waited till the next day till it hardened.It has held for over 5 years with no more popping.

I have not noticed any RFI, but have only ran the bike in the garage with the radio playing. I can pick up all the same stations I normally listen to.Between work,family obligations, and the great Fla liquid sunshine,I have not been able to get in any riding time. I hope that changes very soon.

Yes, they should fit any 4 1/2 inch spot lamp. I have not rode with them at night yet, but they are very bright in daylight.The pictures are pretty accurate on the website.They make my HID headlight look dim compared to them, and I didn't think that was possible.My stock lights looked yellow compared to the HID.I put them on my Venture with the Yamaha light bar.I am very happy with them so far.

Thank you for explaining,maybe I can get the hang of it.

Thanks Mike G. Can someone explain how you post a link on the forum?I have never learned how to do that.

Yes,I put them in my 2007 Venture.

I ordered a set of LED passing lamps off Ebay,from a seller named Jolli Hack.I must say I am impressed with how bright they are.To look at them from the front, they are brighter than my HID headlight, although I know they do not throw the light down the road as far, but you can definitely be seen better.$125 and $9.95 shipping is a lot cheaper than I could find anywhere else for a pair. I can't post a link, but if you search for Yamaha Roadstar LED Passing Lights,Running Lights,it should pull them up. I ordered on Wednesday night and received on Saturday from New York to Fla.If someone else could post a link,that would be great. I'm not very computer savvy.

I read on another forum where a guy used pine-sol, about 3 big bottles, and soaked his carbs in a dish pan. Used it straight and enough to completely cover carbs.Let soak for a couple days and see if it will dissolve the varnish. He said it worked very well and would not hurt the rubber or plastic.I have not personally tried this,but seems like it would work.It comes in a plastic bottle, so you know it will not harm the plastic.

It is a clock from Formotion.

I tried usedcyclesales techron soak on my friends boat motor and like him, I am now a believer.Only 1 of the 3 carbs was feeding the engine.Drained the bowls and filled with Techron and let sit for 2 days.Drained out Techron and reattached the fuel line and headed for the lake.He said it ran as good as when he bought it new.Came right up on plane and red lined in just a few seconds.I will be adding a little about once a month to the bike and if I have problems I will do the same to it.He had already spent $600 dollars having them cleaned by a boat repair shop last year.We fixed it for less than $10.He was happy.Stay away from ethanol if at all possible, especially if it sits for awhile.The boat dealer told him that draining the carbs was the worst thing you could do and would make problems start sooner due to it leaving a residue on all the parts that the fuel had touched inside the carbs. Use the Startron Ethanol Treatment if you have to run the ethanol fuel.

Cheese Head sent me a PM asking for pictures of my install, I thought I would post them to help someone else save some money instead of buying the Barons tach. Love the look of the Barons tach, just could not justify the price. I used a Drag Specialties 1 7/8 mini tach and Formotion or Kuryaken P clamp.

I haven't learned how to attach pictures yet,but the ones I was thinking of are actually a Harley Genuine accessory.Touring Saddlebag Lid Rails-# 90200737.I hope someone has done this and can give me some pointers.I got the number and seen the photo installed on the bike at Harley's official web site under accessories for saddlebags.