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machining a VMX rear gear housing


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The VMX rear gear unit is almost a direct swap on a 2nd gen. It only needs the blank boss milled out for the speedometer sensor. Here I am doing one for Condor.

 

1) Locate and bore out the main hole.

 

2) Machine the boss off flat.

 

3) Locate and drill the mounting bolt hole.

 

4) Tap in the threads.

 

5) Chamfer the holes, pull the shock bolt, take it apart and flush the shavings out real well, reassemble and it's ready to mount.

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Sure, I'd do another one. Why not. Just make sure the VMX unit you get has the blank boss on it. Later ones have it and earlier ones don't. If it's not there, there's nothing to machine. Shoot me a pm for my address.

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Look at that closely. There are some differences in the FJR rear housing. First, the four mounting bolts are longer and require a spacer of some sort to take up the gap. That can be accommodated, but... Second, there are some machining differences on the inside where the thing goes against the wheel. I don't know if a shim or something can be changed in there or not. I don't know if FJR gear housings can be made to work.

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Been there, done that with the gear swap. Didn't like it at all, too low gearing so I went back to original and have had no problems with it at all,gearing is fine,plenty of power and torque. Won't say you won't like it, but for my personal opinion, the originals work just fine.

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VMX is that a motorcycle or is it a brand name? I googled VMX and found VMX Magazine and VMX racing. Little help here please! I have been wondering what to do next. Gone to the dark side and have tinkered with the bike as much as I can so this looks like a great next step! Can't wait to here other opinions and learn more!

 

Thanks!!!

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VMX is short for V-Max. Yamaha's muscle bike..

 

So we're using a three letter abbreviation for a 5 character name? Yay for efficiency!

 

I used to say my dream job in the Canadian military would be the TLA SME at the OAG.

 

I wanted to be the -Three Letter Acronym- -Subject Matter Expert- at the -Office of Acronym Generation-.

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So we're using a three letter abbreviation for a 5 character name? Yay for efficiency!

 

I used to say my dream job in the Canadian military would be the TLA SME at the OAG.

 

I wanted to be the -Three Letter Acronym- -Subject Matter Expert- at the -Office of Acronym Generation-.

 

:sign20:

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Been there, done that with the gear swap. Didn't like it at all, too low gearing so I went back to original and have had no problems with it at all,gearing is fine,plenty of power and torque. Won't say you won't like it, but for my personal opinion, the originals work just fine.

 

Yeah, I went back to the stock rear gear ratio also - after I put a VMX transmission in my bike. This thread is about the machining of a VMX rear gear housing. Put your opinions on the appropriateness of the gear ratios of this bike somewhere else.

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Here I am doing one for Condor.

 

Who???? :confused07: Condor has a second gen? :doh: Condor moves the bike off his driveway? :stickpoke: Pegscraper, you better send him some new tires along with this mod - the old ones may have a flat spot on them - :think: not good for a ride to Cody!! :rotf::stirthepot:

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So we're using a three letter abbreviation for a 5 character name? Yay for efficiency!

 

I used to say my dream job in the Canadian military would be the TLA SME at the OAG.

 

I wanted to be the -Three Letter Acronym- -Subject Matter Expert- at the -Office of Acronym Generation-.

 

That got me laughing! Or TGML!

 

Thanks! Or T

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 years later...
The VMX rear gear unit is almost a direct swap on a 2nd gen. It only needs the blank boss milled out for the speedometer sensor. Here I am doing one for Condor.

 

1) Locate and bore out the main hole.

 

2) Machine the boss off flat.

 

3) Locate and drill the mounting bolt hole.

 

4) Tap in the threads.

 

5) Chamfer the holes, pull the shock bolt, take it apart and flush the shavings out real well, reassemble and it's ready to mount.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I have a relevant question.

 

Was wondering why the VMax boss had to be machined flat?

 

I put an RSV diff in my VMax (drilled and tapped for the shock mount and blanked the speedo hole). I pulled out the old VMax diff to compare the boss height on each. Both diff boss (shoulder) heights look the same to me. Looking at the boss on both diffs, I can really see no need to machine the boss flat on the VMax diff when drilling out the speedo hole and tapping the mounting screw for mounting on my RSV.

 

Am I missing something:confused24:?

 

Rusty

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Why do all this work? You can get a v-max setup ready to install from RM Sportmax. $300 exchange.

Mike

 

Cause I saved $150 bucks doing it myself! AND gained the experience of doing it! :cool10:

I'm not a 'buy it and just bolt it on' kinda guy! :no-no-no:

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Sorry but I have not kept up with all the different V-max diff threads around. If I understand correctly the V-max will "bolt in" with some modifications mostly done by a third party shop. What they do I have no idea. but if it fits in, why can't a fellow simply put the ring and pinon from the Vmax into the RSV case?

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Sorry but I have not kept up with all the different V-max diff threads around. If I understand correctly the V-max will "bolt in" with some modifications mostly done by a third party shop. What they do I have no idea. but if it fits in, why can't a fellow simply put the ring and pinon from the Vmax into the RSV case?

 

It has to be fit, (shimmed in properly) It was easier for me to mill the speedo hole.

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