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Have you checked ebay? There is at least one used switch there but pricey.

NOW.....onto bigger and even MORE important things.......where can I obtain a "good condition" (NEW would be nice, but I'm not obsessed about it, depending on price) replacement ignition switch for my 2003 Midnight? (I'm in Canada, but I have a post office box in Niagara Falls, NY, so that improves my "continent wide" access.)

Agreed, Glenn.......on BOTH points...as per my comments below: 1. No big hardship, 2. The tumbler (according to Murphy's law) will ALSO fail, two weeks after you go to all the work of RE-installing the OLD one! 😞

Thanks again for your time on the phone, yesterday, Mike Just a couple of follow-ups here (for "everybody's" benefit)... The comment you make above..."don't need to cut a key...(just) remove the 2 smaller heads...swap the old cylinder to the new switch...ya have nothing to lose"....that assumes.... a) that the "tumbler" portion of our old switch is in good/perfect shape, and b) we don't mind accidentally drilling a hole in ANOTHER finger while performing the "pilot hole/easy-out" process as we did to get the entire assembly out of the bike initially. Speaking of which...I haven't seen it SAID anywhere..... but is it safe to assume that all FOUR of these bolts WERE installed from the TOP DOWN? (as opposed to "From the BOTTOM UP"....which is entirely possible. (It is, of course, critical to know this...IF we want to know whether turning CLOCKWISE or COUNTER-CLOCKWISE turns the easyouts.......OUT. 🙂 Lastly, I saw someone comment, words to the effect, "What's the big deal carrying two keys around? One for the ignition switch and one for everything else?" In response to this, I have a couple of comments: 1. I'm old enough to remember when most if not ALL vehicles HAD two keys...one for the ignition, and one for everything else....trunk lid, DOORS, glove compartment...and I WAS NO BIG DEAL. 2. Even NOW, my A4 Audi has a key FOB that, yes, is a more talented than a single key......but that SUCKER weighs as much as four or FIVE keys...and takes up the same amount of "space in pocket" as 4 or 5 keys....and no one (including me) complains about it. 3. Carrying ONE extra, 2 oz key around (attached on one of these newfangled things we call a "keyring") seems a small price to pay to have a COMPLETELY new ignition switch......one in which the LOCKING mechanism is as new as the electrical contacts portion....and that the tumbler, which (granted) MAY have been working.....BUT might ALSO fail....two weeks after I go to all the trouble to R&R it back into the bike. Why not just put in ALL NEW and "man up" enough muscle and pocket space to carry 2 little keys?

85 frame is preferred and in good condition. thanks

Check in the Tech Library

Picked up this 83 for free and of course the frame is badly cracked at its usual spot. I’m looking on eBay for some frames but they are way overpriced!! Surprise! Will post pics when I flip the bike and get a better look but from what I can tell, the cracks on both sides are probably an inch wide and 2 “ long. This is a long shot but if anyone has a good frame they are willing to part with , please let me know. I’m assuming the 83 engine will also fit 84 & 85 frames. thanks!

Search google for yamaha publications and you'll find several sources

Look 0n ebay. I got one it is for a 06 RSTD

I think there is one in my 07 RSTD.

Me and Sharon have Thursday off also, I do have a dental appointment in the morning but will be home by noon if anyone wants to come over on Thursday you are welcome.

I've had to click in and out of the playing video to get the sound to start working - it's probably just Microsoft getting even with Apple.

I agree with @Marcarl. Looks normal to be and sounds like the repair is a success. FWIW, whenever I ride my SVTC, voltage will fluctuate in small increments between 14.1 V to 14.3 volts. At least that is what I see on my display. Have fun this summer @sleepy2 and put a lot of miles on your bike. Ride safe.

It's probably something at my end, but I can't hear any audio in the video. The link takes me to the vid and it plays, just no sound at all.

Voltage is determined by the voltage rectifier, called the regulator/rectifier.

Quite normal.

Have been out a few times and the voltage has not gone over 13.5v. I have tried ridding around 60 to 70klms to get the revs up but volts haven't gone up ,maybe 13.6v once or twice!

As promised in previous post - finally - video explanation of the 2nd gen fuel pump delete. https://1drv.ms/v/c/bcd21b151d642b6c/IQCWFiQ3dw9XQYrlmpiDVNxEAVWjzeyKPDfNSJCAZUmeYNI?e=0sQorC If you can't hear the audio try clicking in the video a couple of times.

......and..........?

You can sometimes take it apart and clean up the contacts to make it work again. I think instructions are in the read only library. Look in the sale items, a member (can’t remember who) sells or sold a bypass kit that took the load off the switch and ran everything through a relay. The instructions are here somewhere to make your own, pretty simple. I built one for my 07 several years ago.

Good afternoon to all. Today was a hot day, but I redirected a lot of air to my torso for the ride to and from work. 91 degrees and humid and the SVTC did wonderful. Ride safe and enjoy your night.