igya Posted August 2, 2008 Share #1 Posted August 2, 2008 You folks have helped me more than I could ever thank you for! So, I'd like to make a small contribution that may have already been shared by someone else, I don't know. While trying (no telling HOW many) different epoxies (from fast to slow cure) with a certain amount of succuss, I finally discovered the one that is absolutely perfect! It's PERMATEX "PermaPoxy" Epoxy Stick Item # 84315. Can be found at WalMart for $4.00. My fairing had a corner chunk missing, various holes drilled for bogus switches and just about every tab cracked or missing. You just cut off a slice, knead it, smash it in place, shape it a little, wait 5 minutes, apply final grinding, and WHAMO! A jack hammer couldn't knock it loose! I have even glued "fixed" nuts on metal parts. It can even be drilled and tapped out. It glues everthing (including ABS, obviously) except oil and water! And I'm not sure of that yet. Friends, you'll not be disappointed, I promise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Missionary Rider Posted August 2, 2008 Share #2 Posted August 2, 2008 Thanks to a stray rock hidden in the grass on the shoulder of the road, my fairing is cracked (broken into but held on by the one bolt) below the radiator. From your experience would you recommend this epoxy to repair my fairing? Thanks for sharing the info! Lynn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igya Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share #3 Posted August 3, 2008 Thanks to a stray rock hidden in the grass on the shoulder of the road, my fairing is cracked (broken into but held on by the one bolt) below the radiator. From your experience would you recommend this epoxy to repair my fairing? Thanks for sharing the info! Lynn Absolutely! Just rough up the surfaces with heavy grit sandpaper (I used a Drimmel tool with a rotary file) and wear rubber gloves because that stuff really likes skin. You will wonder if that wad of kneaded adhisive will even stick, but as it heats up in the curing process, it gets very tacky and will bond like you wouldn't believe. For long cracks, I'd recommend rolling it into a ball in the palm of your hand to compact it (after Kneading for about 1 minute -NEVER more than 2 minutes) and roll it out into a rope. Then flatten it out about 1" wide and mash it onto the crack. You're going to be amazed!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtman Posted August 3, 2008 Share #4 Posted August 3, 2008 Good info... I got more than one tab that needs repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GigaWhiskey Posted August 3, 2008 Share #5 Posted August 3, 2008 Wiping the plastic with some acetone helps make the plastic sticky. Mashing a piece of fiberglass cloth between two layers of that stuff works great too. And, a dremel tool is great for making the holes, edging and doing the cleanup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igya Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share #6 Posted August 3, 2008 Wiping the plastic with some acetone helps make the plastic sticky. Mashing a piece of fiberglass cloth between two layers of that stuff works great too. And, a dremel tool is great for making the holes, edging and doing the cleanup. Acetone and fiberglass are great tips also! I used fiberglass with the liquis epoxies but didn't think about it with the Permetex. Wish I had. And, I would think that using acetone after the roughing would be double good. Don't ya just love this?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted August 3, 2008 Share #7 Posted August 3, 2008 Gonna have to give that stuff a try..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schlepporello Posted August 3, 2008 Share #8 Posted August 3, 2008 Is it possible to get touch-up paint to cover your repaired areas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igya Posted August 4, 2008 Author Share #9 Posted August 4, 2008 Is it possible to get touch-up paint to cover your repaired areas? The OEM color names and numbers are easy to get. You'll just have to see if your local auto paint supplier can match or cross reference them. If you need help getting the OEM info, let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted August 4, 2008 Share #10 Posted August 4, 2008 Doesn't color-Rite have some touch-up Pens?? Anybody know anything about them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venturejockey Posted August 4, 2008 Share #11 Posted August 4, 2008 Doesn't color-Rite have some touch-up Pens?? Anybody know anything about them? Yup. Just one of those touch up pen with an applicator that sort of looks like a narrow highlighter tip. You shake the ball in the pen and then place the pen nib against the surface until the paint begins to flow and do your job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GigaWhiskey Posted August 4, 2008 Share #12 Posted August 4, 2008 Color-rite only had one of my colors but not the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PBJ Posted August 5, 2008 Share #13 Posted August 5, 2008 My bike was dropped on the right side by previous owner and cracked the fairing near the mirror theres a 2 inch sliver missing there. i was going to ask if anyone had an idea to patch it thanks Igya I'm going out tp get some today. Check out my thread on scratched windshields. Quixx is also found at Wal Mart in the same Isle I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igya Posted August 5, 2008 Author Share #14 Posted August 5, 2008 My bike was dropped on the right side by previous owner and cracked the fairing near the mirror theres a 2 inch sliver missing there. i was going to ask if anyone had an idea to patch it thanks Igya I'm going out tp get some today. Check out my thread on scratched windshields. Quixx is also found at Wal Mart in the same Isle I believe. If I were you, I'd have a couple of pieces of fiberglass already cut to overlap the gap about an inch. Kneed epoxy (about 1/8" thick) very quickly and press one piece of fiberglass onto a flattened strip of it and apply with epoxy next to faring on the inside (of course). Push the epoxy up a fuzz higher than the outside finish of fairing while pressing the edges together quite firmly. You'll think that it'll never stick, but as it cures, it gets very tacky and will stick like........well........like GLUE! Let that set for up for about 30 minutes and do the same thing again over the first application. Repeat as often as needed to retain the proper thickness. Don't forget to rough up each area that epoxy will be bonding to including the first application. If the gap is over 3" long, I'd make additional applications lengthwise overlapping the glass and epoxy about 1/2" (one layer at a time). The epoxy wet sands very well (working up to 600 grit wet paper). GO FOR IT! MAKE YOUR DAY!!! YOU CAN SEND THE "THANK YOU" CARDS LATER. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted August 5, 2008 Share #15 Posted August 5, 2008 My bike was dropped on the right side by previous owner and cracked the fairing near the mirror theres a 2 inch sliver missing there. i was going to ask if anyone had an idea to patch it thanks Igya I'm going out tp get some today. Check out my thread on scratched windshields. Quixx is also found at Wal Mart in the same Isle I believe. For narrow gapped slivers the Permatex should work just fine, but for filling big voids in the fairing I'd suggest using IPS #16 and glass matting to create a backing on the inside and then filling the void from the outside. The bottle in the pics is another IPS product called ABS Weld-on 2354 that's used to weld the spider cracks in ABS, and does a great job! They're basically the same thing, but the #16 is a heavier viscosity. Attached are a few pics of the job I had to do on the trunk of the '91. Just wet the surface out with the 16 and lay the glass over the hole, and then wet out the matting. #16 is designed to chemically melt the ABS and the matting will actually bond into the surface. To fill the void on the outside I used PC7 2-part epoxy. I wasn't to happy with the consistancy of the mix, tough to work with, so the permatex may be a better product. Anyway I failed to take pics of the end result, but the repair is very strong, and after sanding and shoting with Krylon Semi-flat Black, it's looks very nice even if it is on the underside of the trunk... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6m459 Posted August 6, 2008 Share #16 Posted August 6, 2008 Hi, I scanned a British magazine article about plastic repairs and put it in a zip file HERE I thought that the Locktite product info was particularly interesting. Hope it is of some interest. Brian H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead Posted August 6, 2008 Share #17 Posted August 6, 2008 Hey Jack, where do you get the IPS products? I've been happy with JB Weld repairs, except it dries slowly (faster with a heat lamp) and runs in the meantime. This paste stuff could be handy. Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted August 8, 2008 Share #18 Posted August 8, 2008 It's PERMATEX "PermaPoxy" Epoxy Stick Item # 84315. Can be found at WalMart for $4.00. It glues everthing (including ABS, obviously) except oil and water! And I'm not sure of that yet. Friends, you'll not be disappointed, I promise. But it does work under water. I have used it for attaching live coral to a rock in my salt water aquarium. Obviously since it is LIVE coral the whole process had to be done to a wet rock and wet coral while under the water. Still worked great and the uncured epoxy did not hurt any other critters in the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambler Posted August 9, 2008 Share #19 Posted August 9, 2008 Thanks for the link Brian Gambler:banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa smurf Posted August 12, 2008 Share #20 Posted August 12, 2008 (edited) man... i just bought a left fairing that i bet i could have repaired w/ some of that stuff and a little touch up paint. i gotta start asking more questions... actually, it was the lower left cowling around the radiator. Edited August 12, 2008 by papa smurf accuracy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmxndad Posted February 21, 2009 Share #21 Posted February 21, 2009 I agree the permatex is good stuff. Repaired trunk cracks '99 RSV with it yesterday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desertwinds Posted July 6, 2015 Share #22 Posted July 6, 2015 Thanks for the tip and the other ideas for repairing gaps, my used '07 RSV came with a sizeable hole in the lower cowling cover, I am not sure how much it would cost to replace, but this gives me some ideas for what I can do for it in the meantime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dna9656 Posted July 29, 2015 Share #23 Posted July 29, 2015 3M has a site "www.3Mcollision.com. On it you will (eventually) find a glue for ABS, it is supposed to glue dern near anything to anything. I have high hopes for both the permatx and 3M products. The 3M stuff requires a special double barrel caulking gun that runs about $100.00 at automotive paint stores, the local jobber here will "rent" it to me for the cost of the gun and I can return it when I'm done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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