HF Tag Along or bare frame to start my build?

[JohnT]

I recently found a VR trailer hitch for my 86. But instead of a ball, or a hole to mount a normal ball it has what can best be described as a pin or stud. Roughly 3/4" in diameter. I am on a limited budget sort of for the trailer build and was thinking of getting a small Harbor Freight trailer to start the project. I'm leaning toward the model with 12" wheels as opposed to 8". Should roll better, less heat, etc. Is this thinking right? (In reading here, I may be over thinking this part.)

Or will a Tag Along with it's 8" wheels and box already on be a decent choice. My local HF doesn't have one in stock to see "in person".

So, with either trailer, should I modify the pin type hitch to accept the trailer (ball) coupler? Or remove the ball type coupler in favor of the pin type bike hitch? I'm probably going to have to make a modification to get level ride height anyway.

[friesman]

Send JimBob in here a msg, I think he was selling his bike and the trailer. His was a HF trailer with the car topper.

 

 

Brian

[MikeM]

I have two trailers. One with 8" and one with 12 and they both pull fine.

I would suggest thinking of what you want to carry then decide if the "car topper/tag-along will work for what you plan or maybe something larger or smaller will do the job.

I built my large trailer with the 12" HF kit as a base and had a box built large enough to haul my double size Tentcot along with our other camping gear.

I found a smaller 19 cu.ft. Shoreline with 8" wheels locally and we use it when we don't take the Tentcot or the 10X12 tent and portable Air Conditioner with us.

If you do buy from HF,Don't forget the 20% off coupon found in most magazines to save you some $$

http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx250/C-M_Motorsports/Trailer1.jpg

http://i47.tinypic.com/30139ea.jpg

[Freebird]

It sounds like you bought a hitch with a Bushtec pin. Is it welded or mounted with a stud and nut like a ball? If it is an actual Bushtec hitch, the pin is probably welded. They also sell just a pin that mounts like a standard ball that you should be able to remove and replace with a ball. If it is the removable pin, I would be interested in buying it from you. If it is welded, about your only option would be to cut it off and drill the tongue out to accept a ball. IF the tongue is wide enough to do so. If you could post a picture, we could get a better idea.

[Squidley]

As long as you keep the bearings greased well, 8" wheels will be just fine. Personally I have had both (8" and 12") and have had no issues with either one. For the price, and as mentioned with the 20% coupons it's hard to beat the H/F trailer. I have assembled several and know several riders that use them. Unless your really wanting to be totally personal with making a trailer, the H/F is an excellent value for someone on a budget.

[dacheedah]

Have the 8" tires and it pulls fine

[JohnT]

OK, the pin is welded in. If need be I can get it removed and the hitch prepped for a standard ball. (Son in law and a few acquaintances work in a local machine shop) It appears that there is enough room to mount a ball after removing the pin. I'm assuming that this pin set up will work, but what are the pros and cons of pin versus ball?

And, is this hitch complete? Doesn't seem to be a very strong mount with the rear mount brackets seeming a little skimpy. I do figure to keep tongue load at 20 pound or so and can't picture hauling over 150 pounds plus the weight of the trailer.

 

MikeM, an air conditioner?

[Freebird]

Yes, that is a Bushtec hitch. I have a Bushtec and really like the pin setup but I don't know of anybody who makes the coupler that can be added to your trailer. What I like about it is that it is a slip fit over the pin with no real play so you get no noise as you could with a ball and coupler. It is a very solid fit. Also, the heim joint on the Bushtec trailer will rotate 360 degrees so if you ever drop your bike there is no way for it to put any pressure on the trailer. To be honest though, I think that most ball type hitches will allow the bike to lay over without flipping the trailer.

 

Here is what the coupler and pin combo looks like on an actual Bushtec trailer. Now I have seen some homemade couplers made from a regular heim joint such as are used for tie rod ends and etc. It can be fabricated if you want to go to the trouble. The easiest and cheapest route though would be to just remove that pin and add a ball.

[MikeM]

MikeM, an air conditioner?

We can't sleep if we are sweating like a sprinkler. Lots of times around here it cools all the way down to the 90's at night so we use a 9500 BTU portable room AC inside the tent.

BTW, we only "camp" to save $$ over motels. The motels also get pretty upset if you decide to have a camp fire plus we know what has been on our bedding.

[StarUmp]

I went with the HF Tag-a-Long and I can only tell you it does everything I need it to do and then some. For the price it can't be beat, unless you really want to spend thousands, it is the way to go. I'd upgrade the lights to LEDs and take off the second leaf spring, but other than that mine is stock and working well behind both our bikes. Oh yes, I tow it almost every day being in outside sales I carry my samples in it so I can leave the cage at home until the rain returns. Good investment and yes, don't forget the 20% off coupon.

[cabreco]

I saw the Tag along but want to conserve some coin as I have build material.

So as a base this HF trailer would do fine?

Just checking before I pick this up.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/trailer-accessories/870-lb-capacity-40-inch-x-49-inch-heavy-duty-utility-trailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42708.html

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_18027.jpg

[Squidley]

I saw the Tag along but want to conserve some coin as I have build material.

So as a base this HF trailer would do fine?

Just checking before I pick this up.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/trailer-accessories/870-lb-capacity-40-inch-x-49-inch-heavy-duty-utility-trailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42708.html

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_18027.jpg

 

I have built a couple of trailers with that kit, put a car topper on it and it worked great. Pull the trigger, you wont have any issues

[cabreco]

I have built a couple of trailers with that kit, put a car topper on it and it worked great. Pull the trigger, you wont have any issues

 

 

Exactly my thought. I have a Karrite Explorer cartop carrier for it.

It's 54" L x 38" W x 18" H with an 18 cu ft capacity

 

http://www.lakelandgear.com/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/karrite4.jpg

[Squidley]

Exactly my thought. I have a Karrite Explorer cartop carrier for it.

It's 54" L x 38" W x 18" H with an 18 cu ft capacity

 

http://www.lakelandgear.com/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/karrite4.jpg

 

That will work just fine, I built one and sold it to Hazenson before we left Michigan. Pulled great and it's so much more convenient on trips not having to load the hell out of the bike.

[XV1100SE]

I have the Tag-along but find I have to be careful how I load it. This year I put a cooler rack on the tongue as close to the box as I can get it and tongue weight can get too high very easily.

 

If you look at how far back the axle is on the Tag-along and how much of the box is behind the axle.... you don't have a lot of room to balance the weight distribution. 80-90% of the box is in front of the axle. Leaves very little room to put heavy stuff behind the wheels. Extending the tongue won't help.

 

With the flat bed trailer it looks like the frame extends further behind the axle so would be easier to lighten tongue weight.

 

How have others handled the weight issue on the Tag-along? Going to look over the Winter to see if the box can be adjusted back or if hanging a spare tire underneath and behind the axle would work.

[cabreco]

That will work just fine, I built one and sold it to Hazenson before we left Michigan. Pulled great and it's so much more convenient on trips not having to load the hell out of the bike.

 

 

Squidley, just picked it up. Any advice or mods to assembly?

I know some HF trailers have extra axle springs (I don't think this does) that some do not install. Any heads up woiuld be appreciated!

 

Andy

[Flyinfool]

I saw the Tag along but want to conserve some coin as I have build material.

So as a base this HF trailer would do fine?

Just checking before I pick this up.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/trailer-accessories/870-lb-capacity-40-inch-x-49-inch-heavy-duty-utility-trailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42708.html

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_18027.jpg

 

That is exactly where I started.

 

Things I did to it.

1. Grease and adjust the wheel bearings.

2. Remove one of the 2 springs on each side.

3. Extend the tongue. I added 18 inches and then added a swivel hitch for a total of 2 feet extension) (I still have a piece of OEM tongue if you want it.)

4. You need to add a flat washer on each coupler bolt between the tongue and the coupler on one side only to get the spacing correct or the you will distort the coupler.

5. Change to the HF LED lighting kit. Much brighter and also much less amp draw.

6. I used a piece of 1/2 thick pressure treated plywood for a floor. If I ever need to I can remove the car topper in just a couple of minutes (4 internal Eye bolts) and have a nice little flat bed trailer.

7. Not done yet but I will be adding the 11 LED light bar from Super Bright LEDs as a high center brake light. I will wire it as running and brake only. I will also have a plug on this wire so that I can still easily remove the topper from the trailer.

8. I did not like the flat 4 connector on the HF wire harness so I replaced that to.

9. I added removable steel casters to the back of the trailer so that I can stand it up against a wall for storage and still have it roll sideways as needed.

10. add a piece of rubber hose to the rear spring bolt to keep it from rattle/clanking down the road.

 

I did not weld the frame together as many here have done. The ply floor that I added is more than adequate to keep the frame square. No matter how tight you crank the bolts during assembly it still only takes a slight bump to knock it back out of square. You need to either weld it or add a floor to keep things square.

 

Future plans;

I am seriously considering adding electric brakes for next summer. I do not like the extra stopping distance when in heavy traffic.

I want to add a lot more lights for better night visibility.

I still have to build a better cooler rack.

[dacheedah]

I would skip the plywood and stick a sheet of diamond plate aluminum just to stay maintenance free, build a cooler rack on the tongue. I uses 2x2 tubing and put a new coupler on it, I set it to where my chairs fit between the cooler and topper. I put my spare tire on the tubing for the tongue and it sits all the way back with the valve accessable (nothin worse than a flat spare).

 

I also used flyinfools design to run a third brake light running on a four flat plug, so I can still use it behind a car or truck. . .

[cabreco]

A lot of GREAT info here. I had read a few of them online but not the tongue extention. Is this something that is essential?

 

3. Extend the tongue. I added 18 inches and then added a swivel hitch for a total of 2 feet extension) (I still have a piece of OEM tongue if you want it.)

I have a Swivel hitch on order. It just makes sense to allow the bike to lean & the trailer not to try. The OEM tongue, did you just replace the OEM with a longer piece of square stock or weld in extra. I may take you up on the extra piece, I'll have to open the boxes & look at the build.

 

6. I used a piece of 1/2 thick pressure treated plywood for a floor. If I ever need to I can remove the car topper in just a couple of minutes (4 internal Eye bolts) and have a nice little flat bed trailer.

I want to keep the weight down so I will probably stick weld it. I'll keep a floor around just in case I need a trailer to haul dirt & such.

 

I still have to build a better cooler rack.

 

I will be doing that as well, I have this small storage box that I want to use to stow an extra gallon of gas & a tiny 800w generator.

 

During the winter I will pick up a 6 person tent among other things for outings.

 

As far as a spare, I usually carry a can of fix a flat so have you or dacheeda found carrying a spare essential? Again looking at weight.

[Flyinfool]

A lot of GREAT info here. I had read a few of them online but not the tongue extention. Is this something that is essential?

 

There are some that have not done it and say it is ok. Mine had a bit of sway at all speeds regardless of tongue weight. I tried everything from 10 to 60 lbs. extending the tongue made it solid as can be.

 

I have a Swivel hitch on order. It just makes sense to allow the bike to lean & the trailer not to try. The OEM tongue, did you just replace the OEM with a longer piece of square stock or weld in extra. I may take you up on the extra piece, I'll have to open the boxes & look at the build.

 

I ordered a new tongue from HF parts so that I would have the exact same thing to extend mine with. The one that I bought I just cut 18" off the end and welded it to the end of the tongue that came with the trailer. If you did not know what I did you would be hard pressed to find the joint by looking at the top side. On the inside there are pieces of 1/8 thick plate welded over the joint for reinforcement.

 

I want to keep the weight down so I will probably stick weld it. I'll keep a floor around just in case I need a trailer to haul dirt & such.

 

You can do either. or use a sheet of diamond plate as mentioned above. If you weld the corners you have to be very certain that you seal up the seams good so that rust does not disassemble it over the years.

 

I will be doing that as well, I have this small storage box that I want to use to stow an extra gallon of gas & a tiny 800w generator.

 

During the winter I will pick up a 6 person tent among other things for outings.

 

2/3rds of my trailer is taken up by the tent, air mattress, and sleeping bag. I have been considering getting a smaller tent if I can find a two person that I can stand up in. if not I'll stay with my monster 10 man 3 room tent.

 

As far as a spare, I usually carry a can of fix a flat so have you or dacheeda found carrying a spare essential? Again looking at weight.

 

I have never needed the spare, but I would rather have it and not need it than the other way around. I have my spare bolted to the bottom of the tongue, under the bed, just in front of the axle. For as often as it should be needed it does not have to be real easy to get to on the road. When the trailer is standing up against the wall the valve on the spare is right there to easily check air pressure.

 

As an added note

I have found that Rustolium red is a perfect match to the HF red on the trailer. At least for the first year, the HF paint fades pretty quick and the Rustolium does not. My trailer is stored outdoors. I kept it red for added visibility in the daytime. Even though most cagers are blind to the color red....

[cabreco]

As an added note

I have found that Rustolium red is a perfect match to the HF red on the trailer. At least for the first year, the HF paint fades pretty quick and the Rustolium does not. My trailer is stored outdoors. I kept it red for added visibility in the daytime. Even though most cagers are blind to the color red....

 

The paint I'm not too concerned with, I plan on repainting my blonde green (like my 750)

& I'll be matching the trailer & carrier box to match. I have found that like gun laser sights green is more visible to the human eye that red.

Hell I even have a green HID headlight!

 

I appreciate the help. I'll LYK about the tough once I build & test run it.

Thanks!

[Flyinfool]

...........I plan on repainting my blonde green (like my 750).............

 

 

That poor blond.........

 

 

 

First come first serve on the piece of tongue that I have........

[cabreco]

That poor blond.........

Hey I gotta compete with Ventureous' Grape!

 

First come first serve on the piece of tongue that I have........

 

Jeff...You & Squidley have a way of phrasing things that just sound wrong! LMAO!!!

 

Now how the hell am I supposed to ask how much you want for your tongue???

[Squidley]

Squidley, just picked it up. Any advice or mods to assembly?

I know some HF trailers have extra axle springs (I don't think this does) that some do not install. Any heads up woiuld be appreciated!

 

Andy

 

 

Andy,

 

Flyinfool has it down with what he mentioned, if you extend the tongue it will tow lots better. A cooler on the front is also a great idea, I did that on my 1st custom one I built.

 

Use a good quality grease and I would strongly recommend installing bearing buddies on the hubs. Before I would use mine I would jack the side up and pump the bearing buddy full of grease while spinning it to insure there was plenty in there.

 

The LED tail lights are a must to keep the load to a minimum on the charging system.

 

When you do tow it dont fill the tires up to full pressure, 15 to 20 psi is PLENTY in them. They wont bounce as much and with what your going to be hauling in there.

 

There is lots of good advise in the trailer section.

[Brake Pad]

this is something I just can't get started, I had one made last year, but it was too heavy.

I'm reviewing, very lite weight materials, and want to finish with something like this