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New guy needs help


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Just bought a 2000 Venture with 24,500 miles on her. I drove the bike from Knoxville,Tn. to Williamsburg,va. about 540 miles and averaged 41 MPG.

I like the comfort and "stuff" radio//cruise etc, and the performance etc.

The bike had sat for 7 months and I ran 6oz each of seafoam through 2 tanks of gas which helped the low speed idle some but:

THE BIKE WILL NOT IDLE OFF OF CHOKE.

 

This gets hairy in traffic or slowing down on a ramp. Actually I am getting pretty good at left hand choke control (manually)--in seriousness this is dangrerous.

The stealer says it just needs a fuel service check up which is $320.00 plus parts--thank you very much.

 

I can wrench a little and from the threads I have read so far It sounds like I should do plugs 1st which I would do anyway.The owners manual looks a little vaque.

The general condidtion of the bike is good but needs a real goof clean up.

Out on the road at 70 she seemed in her element it just doen not want to idle off choke.

Any advise would be appreciated.

This is my 10th Bike in 6 years I think I found a keeper.

 

ED:thumbsup2:

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your going to have to remove and clean the carbs, you have a jet plugged.

 

if you have average mechanical abilities, it's not a bad job to perform

 

pull a fine wire out of your wire brush and get a can of carb cleaner.

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Get a good heavy dose of Seafoam (full can into a tank with about a gallon or two of gas) into the carbs and let it sit over night. Then fill the tank and see what happens. I'd do this before changing the plugs as this could foul the plugs. The bike will smoke considerably when you start it back up though.

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I suggest cleaning and re-lubing the Choke mechanism; put a new gas filter on; and SeaFoam first before putting in new plugs.

 

Keep checking this thread.....there are guys here who have forgotten more than I will ever know about the Venture.

 

Boomer.........who knows just enough to be dangerous to himself.:crying:

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Idle jets are plugged up. Before I'd pull the carbs apart. I'd unhook the fuel line and drop it into a can of Seafoam and let it run until it died to fill the carbs up with straight Seafoam. Let it sit over night. Then crank it up the next day to see if the Seafoam cleared the idle jets, if not, then you'll have to clean the jets.

 

I'd put new plugs in it no matter what you do to it, you don't know if they have ever been replaced or not.

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Seafoam is great, you could also try 20 oz bottle of Chevron Tecron in a full tank of gas.

I like it better for removing gum in the fuel system and there is enough lub in it not to dry out the system. Don't forget to replace the fuel filter before any work. I there was gum building up in the tank you may need to change the filter more than once. I've used Tecron 16 oz in generators and lawn mowers that don't get much use and idle rough to start but after a tank start purring like new.

Shamue

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Idle jets are plugged up. Before I'd pull the carbs apart. I'd unhook the fuel line and drop it into a can of Seafoam and let it run until it died to fill the carbs up with straight Seafoam. Let it sit over night. Then crank it up the next day to see if the Seafoam cleared the idle jets, if not, then you'll have to clean the jets.

 

I'd put new plugs in it no matter what you do to it, you don't know if they have ever been replaced or not.

 

I would add, that in the morning drain the carburetor bowls, to get the gunk out through the drain instead of running it thru the jets...

 

 

Then when you got it running, let it idle for a LONG TIME, like an entire tank of gas, with a full can of seafoam in it, to really clean out the idle circuit. While idling, have a box fan blow air across the bike. yes it is liquid cooled, but it would not hurt to have some air moving across the oil pan....

 

 

 

OR use Camp Fuel instead of Seafoam, to bring the cost down.

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i agree with the other posts, doubt you'll get away without a carb strip down though, still worth a try. Petrol when left idle in a carb leves a type of varnish deposit which blocks up the jets. Best bet I reckon is total strip down, use a carb cleaner to soften the gunk, be carefull of rubber and plastic seals when using it. clean carb with compressed air, I wouldnt be too fond of using a piece of wire, jets can damage easily. give the bike a FULL service while your at it, that way you know where you stand with maintenance schedules.

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Have you by any chance increased the idle? It's pretty easy, there is an idle adjust on the right side just under the tank. Clockwise increases the idle and of course the other way will decrease it.

 

It couldn't hurt to change the plugs either. You can get to the front ones by removing the dogbones on the side of the engine.

 

Since it runs fine otherwise, I'm inclined to think the idle adjustment is off.

 

Glad you like the bike, most of us think they are great bikes.

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Well Ed, if you are getting a true 41mpg at anything above 50mph, then that is excellent fuel mileage from an RSV, so there can't be too much wrong with her. These bikes have terrible air-flow dynamics, so the wind resistance grows exponentially as your speed goes above 60! By the time you spend a full tank at 80, you can absolutely count on dropping 10mpg from what you get staying closer to 60.

 

Anyway, sounds like you are already pretty much on track for what you need to do. Like you said, the plugs are obvious, as is getting a proper carb sync. But don't forget to get rid of your vacuum leaks by replacing those rotted rubber plugs on the intake manifold nipples (and check the AIS vacuum hoses for cuts)! The idle problem is probably nothing more than nasty carbs. The Seafoam was a good start, but for an older bike that has obviously been neglected by letting it sit for years on years, you are gonna need to focus a bit more there. I'd start with a 50/50 Seafoam soak overnight. You could even go with 100%, but I doubt it will do any better, and it might be a little tougher to get the engine to run at certain points.

 

Simply mix up a quart of fuel by mixing 1 can of Seafoam with 1 can of gas, then pull the fuel line off the tank and stick it in the mix. Run the bike until it clearly has a hard time on this new mix, then shut it off and let it sit overnight. Even better, drain the float bowls before you start this so that you can be certain the carbs are all full of this mix instead of an unknown diluted mix. The next day, make sure the fuel line is back on the tank (and gas ON!) and start her up. Keep the engine running while the choking and smoke clears, then start riding. I'd use a high mix of Seafoam in that first tank, then keep a normal mix of Seafoam (or other fuel system cleaner like Techron) for at least 5 - 10 tanks of gas. Some of that old crud and varnish takes a long time to fully excise. And remember, the inside of the jets cannot be cleaned at all unless fuel is actively being sucked through them, meaning they are not completely plugged and the engine is actually running! The jets are not submerged in fuel inside the float bowls, so just letting it sit does nothing for them.

 

With luck, your carbs will clear up with just that. If not, you will need to pull them, take the jets out an soak the jets in carb cleaner. Before you put them back in, make certain you can see light through each jet! While you are in there, clean out any gunk in the float bowls, spray all the passages with carb cleaner, let soak, and blow out with compressed air. Then be sure to set the float levels - they will probably be way too high (although, your current fuel mileage kinda suggests you may already have one of the few RSVs with the levels set correctly).

 

Finally, ensure that all four choke plungers are working correctly and smoothly, including bending the activating arms as necessary to get them all to start moving at the same time. By the time you are done with that work, I'll bet she purrs like a kitten. :080402gudl_prv:

Goose

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While I agree with the others here, and it probably is stopped up after sitting, I'll also mention this...

 

Have you turned the idle speed knob? I just like to to look at simple things that seem obvious before jumping right into a carb(s) tear down. It's eye level to little kids that love to twist things.

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I thought there was an "IDLE SCREW ADJUSTMENT"? Maybe it has backed out and needs to be increased (KISS principal). Also agree with everything above too. Good luck and keep us posted with the real FIX. That means do ONE thing above at a time until fixed. :)

 

:Venture:

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While I agree with the others here, and it probably is stopped up after sitting, I'll also mention this...

 

Have you turned the idle speed knob? I just like to to look at simple things that seem obvious before jumping right into a carb(s) tear down. It's eye level to little kids that love to twist things.

 

Same thought 7 minutes apart... scarrryyy :nanner:

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I assume that I would disconnect the fuel line from the petcok to the carbs-stck it in seafoam and start the bike and let it run until it quits suckin in the seafoam until it will no longer run and that will fill the bowls with staright seafoam. Next AM reconnect the line and run the bile to see if there is improvement.

Put the 20 oz. can of Chevron into the fuel tank and run it through.

Preceed all the above with a fuel filter change out.

If idling better==change plugs--change plugs anyway.

 

Sounds like a plan?

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Get a good heavy dose of Seafoam (full can of seafoam into the bikes fuel tank with about a gallon or two of gas already in the tank) run the bike until the seafoam is in the carbs and let it sit over night. Then fill the tank with fuel and see what happens. I'd do this before changing the plugs as this could foul the plugs. The bike will smoke considerably when you start it back up though.

Just to clairify.............

 

 

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Not really--Did get the fuel filter changed--new plugs--seafoamed--

Started up fine but stiill would not run off choke. Seems to be surging.

Noticed the left rear carb was totally gunked up and wet at the top where it meets the air chamber.

I'm done--don't want to mess with removing the carbs--looks like way to much fun

 

Thanks to all --the fuel filter change out worked good-well ok

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I am going to do this.I read through the on line maint. manual-and I think I can at least get the:fingers-crossed-emo carb rack off and clean the heck out of it and get all the stuff moving.If I feel real brave I may even attempt to check out the floats but at a minimum get the bulk of the crud off all the moving parts and give the rack a general inspection and clean. Put it back together and see if it runs.

This sight is really confidence inspiring.

 

Thanks again

ED

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I am going to do this.I read through the on line maint. manual-and I think I can at least get the:fingers-crossed-emo carb rack off and clean the heck out of it and get all the stuff moving.If I feel real brave I may even attempt to check out the floats but at a minimum get the bulk of the crud off all the moving parts and give the rack a general inspection and clean. Put it back together and see if it runs.

This sight is really confidence inspiring.

 

Thanks again

ED

Ed, the mess on that left rear carb is normal for these bikes. But also good to clean it up. I periodically spray some engine cleaner up there and hose it down real good when washing the bike.

 

If you do pull the carbs, you might as well set the floats. If all you do is remove the float bowls, there is virtually no way you can mess anything up. And pulling the bowls not only lets you check/set the floats, but it will give you some idea on how nasty those carbs might be inside. Unfortunately, it still sounds to me like you may have plugged jets or passageways. If so, there is no way to ever get them cleaned out without stripping things. If they are completely plugged, no fuel will be flowing through them, so no fuel additive could ever help. So you might want to try and find someone local with enough experience to help you go through them; after all, pulling the carbs is enough work I'd only want to do it once! At a minimum, while the bowls are off, liberally spray carb cleaner into each jet and passageway you see. Then let it sit for about 30 minutes and spray more. Put the plastic nozzle tube right up to the jets to force as much stuff into them as you can. There is some possibility that might clean them up a bit without taking anything else out.

 

One other thing you should check and report back here - your problem absolutely could be caused by the mixture screws being too far in. Although this is very unlikely, you never know what someone else might have done. CAREFULLY turn each screw in, just 1/2 turn at a time, and count how many turns until the screw just touches (do NOT tighten it). Write that number down, then turn the screw back out exactly where it was when you started. Adjusting those screws is not something you should try without experience, but if you let me know where each carb is set now I can tell you if it is in the right range or not. :080402gudl_prv:

Goose

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Will do and thanks again--I do have a pretty good Guzzi dealer and if push comes to shove I could take the rack to him and have him go through it and re-install it myself

Probably save big bucks limiting his work to bench work.

We''l see how it goes.

I'm getting pretty good at getting the seat and tank on and off--ha ha

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Well I got the carb rack out without any major glich (inside throttle cable was not fun.

Looks like the carbs have never been touched. Both right hand carbs were bone dry

I mean they had a dust like film no moisture at all. Both left hand carbs soaked.

Throttle control pin could not move the throttle pulley at all.

Sprayed the whole works down with orang something de-greaser and let soak overnight.

Next decision --Do I attempt to clean reset the carbs myself or give it to mt Guzzi dealer as a bench job.

I have not touched a carb in 40 years and have no compressed air and limited facilities.

I guess I could give it a shot and if it gets to hard to do then give ot to a mechaic who knows what he doing (I hope).

Setting the floats looks tricky to me.

 

Thanks to all

ED

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