Snaggletooth

This is a good start. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19271 A lil silicone spray and well trimmed thumb nails got me throuh it with np problems.

He gets a hat!!!!

Holy Smelter!! I know it's called the hot side but ya done gone overboard there buddy.

A shop like that AND a Kimber? I am impressed!! And then Ice Cream. Close to a perfect world.

Old trucker trick. Heated mirrors and a coat of RainX. About as good as it gets.

New tires and helmets are always a good choice to spend money on. I've got my HJC Trooper that needs to be retired pretty soon. Got a question on the tire as I haven't researched them yet. What are the load ratings? Mike

And Gary gets a hat.

What Squid said. When mine blew out I was was going to get a kit and rebuild mine. Gary offered an old slave body that he had taken a ball hone to and worked the bore back to smooth. Without that hone work it would not have resealed. I installed new seals and it is holding its own yet today. When I got my old one out it was not salvagable. Severe pitting and grooves worn into the bore too deep to remove. So a close inspection is needed to decide on the next step before a rebuild. If and when this one fails...... a new one goes in. Too much time and trouble to do it twice. I got lucky and had some good help and advice along the way. Just my

Seems like I heard those very words not all that long ago.

Yeah, there is that old saying........... "Every motorcycle is $2,000 away from being finished." :mo money:

Hi Tricia, And HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!

I'd still go with Blue LocTite. It will do just fine. The RED is for installations that are not intended to be removed. If it's seated properly and tightened correctly Blue will hold as long as you want it to. As some of us know...... sometimes you have to go back. After finding red LocTite on the bolts of my clutch slave I will never allow Red anywhere near my bike again. And don't forget to seal the daylights out of those stator wires running through the case inside and out. Popular place to leak after new install.

Yeah, you spend enough time here it turns into, done that, done that, done that, done that, done that, done that, done that, done that, done that, done that, done that.................. yada yada yada. ohhh cool, need to do that! Once you get past that you're to busy riding. This bunch is the reason I've never been stranded on the bike. I've been able to catch most the weak spots before they failed, or at least be prepared for them.

Getting the crank bolt out is the easy part. When it comes time to remove the rotor............... that's when you get to talk like a sailor. And like Bongo said, LocTite on the stator mounting screws. Couple of guys have had them back out and had to pull it back apart again for the buzzing noise. Check the bolt length to the new stator frame. Make sure bolts sit tight. Change bolts or add a washer to get a solid fit. You only want to do this once. Right?

When you get a chance replace the OEM main fuse with a Maxi fuse. I found out the hard way that the OEM fuse holder was supposed to have a spare fuse link in it. Of course, when mine blew out, it didn't. The maxi's are a lot easier to replace when you need to. Not like the mains blow out all the time but when they do.......... where ya at?

You talking about this short cable? The main cable goes from POS BAT to starter solenoid and the smaller lead is the OEM main fuse.

Can't tell from the pic but the crank bolt should have an open hole in it. That was part of the change for the cooling kit install and your bike should of had that when new. No nozzle, just a hole with the wire shaft in it. It appears in the stator pic that the one oil baffle is in place in the center. I'm not sure but if the baffle is there, it did have a cooling kit. I can't confirm that they did not have a baffle prior to the cooling kit but the two new baffles and included when you buy the OEM cooling kit. So if the bolt has a hole, a wire shaft and baffles inside and out, it's the way it should be. The included pic shows what to look for. The mark on your bolt shows the kit is there.

Congrats you guys. Good news and reward for his effort.

I think the trick is to pack more than they can carry off.

Some folks do tend to run up a lil tight sometimes. This rider was able to walk away without injury.

Or new filter in backwards perhaps? What did you end up doing with the fuel pump?

Good read to get you started. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1066 Being a barn find you can add mouse damage. Chewed wires, mouse nest in exhaust pipes, lil things they do when they find a parked bike. Lil demons. Add dry rot tires, rust in fuel tank, dead battey...... all the fun stuff.

I did the separate harness when I installed the Shindengen myself only to simplify any future troubleshooting. Has worked well for several years with no problem. As Bob said it appears from your testing that you have had a failure at the stator itself as all three readings should be close together. As for a new stator, kinda like oil. Some have had good luck and others mulitpule failures with the same provider. I got mine at Buckeye Performance and it's still doing well at about 5 years. A little higher cost than others but still working. I don't think you've done any harm to the DEKA. I had my OEM R/R fail about 30-35 miles from home and rode back on the battery alone. It showed 11.5 volts when I got done changing out the R/R the next day and the bike fired right back up. Still running the same battery today with no ill effects.

Ummmm..... similiar?

+1 on the Caswell epoxy sealer. My first and only choice these days. Tough stuff.