Snaggletooth

I guess you might want to go back and read the first couple lines in my first post again.

Sounds like your starter engage is failing. The three rollers in the OEM engage only make contact with the boss on the 72 tooth ring gear that seats in the rotor when the motor is stopped. If the housing is cracked the rollers are not held in the proper alignment and may be boucing of the ring gear boss when the bike shuts down from a low idle. (maybe one or more springs damaged also) The chattering or banging when starting supports that thought. The first pics are of the OEM engage. First two showing damage and then the engage in the rotor, damaged but it does not show. The last pics are the OEM and Danos upgrade side by side. Then the details of Danos upgrade. You have two options really. A New OEM for about $200.00 or Danos upgrade for under $300.00. (or what ever the price is these days) I installed Dano when he first made them available. I think I was the first one to do it in the US. Won't ever have to do it again. Tuff Stuff.

Here are a couple threads discussing the proportioning valve. There are no breakdowns or rebuild kits. New valves are, or were still available when I last checked for about $175 bucks I think. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69867&highlight=proportioning+valve http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66186&highlight=proportioning+valve

Sorry on that one. I didn't read back far enough to catch up. I was talking about the piston in the brake caliper, not the MC. I'm looking for some pic of the proportioning valve and internal assmebly.

Oh mannnn......... Gimmie some hot fudge to pour over that and a bit of marshmallow cream and what would be left would be .... Road Kill.

You might be on to something there. There has been a lot of heavy truck activity in her area lately with some odd looking loads. They have been parking some of it at a farmers shop down the road for a couple weeks. Might have to take a closer look at the stuff. That would explain the sort but regular bursts of tremors they have been feeling.

You can disconnect the union bolt at the caliper and use air pressure to blow the pistons out. I only do that when I split the caliper body. Contain the piston with a rag. They can move right along when they come out.

I'm trying to read up on the fracking stuff. I get the principle and the reason for doing it but I've got some questions. From what I've been told they are doing some well fracking about 35 miles south of me near where my daughter lives. She told me she and her girlfriend have felt some ground tremors over the last 24 hours. Enough to rattle things on the shelves and the last one this morning lasted about 10 seconds. She said it was pretty intense. The idea of fracking in that area, if it would be part of the cause for the tremors is interesting as there is an old underground limestone mine just a few miles from her. I know that particular mine has had cave ins in the past. Anybody living in a fracking area that can say what one might expect? Curious..........

You're kiddin' right? Ya done good.

Too much effort for the trouble. (if not more fun though) You can shame those guys at a stop light without moving a foot. I had a group of "them" running behind me in a 4 four lane road going though town here. When I pulled up to a stop light one of them pulled up next to me in my lane (which bugged me) with his GF on the back. Two of the others pulled on along side in the other lane. I looked over at the guy next to me a he just gave me the "look" and turned away. His GF gave me a lil wave and I nodded back. They started cracking their throttles and their pipes were rattling my teeth. The one next to me gave me a grin and was laughing. Simple enough for me. Locked down the front brake and let the rear tire loose and lit it up. I didn't care, had a new set waiting in the garage anyway. With the MAC pipes I can throw off a lil racket myself at about 5K RPM. When the light changed I pulled away from the smoke cloud and rolled across the intersection and on down the road. Never got over 35 MPH. I held back and changed lanes about a mile away to hit the Interstate ramp. By that point they had to come around and pass me. The rider that was next to me would not even look over. His GF was slapping him on the back and laughing her butt off. She shot me a big wave and a thumbs up as they went. The other two guys had stiff necks to. Couldn't turn their heads. Schooled by an old man on an old bike. Ahh the shame! But it's a refreshing moment to do that every once in while.

SPIKE!! Sit! Stay!! Not this time. But +3 on the Plexus. Works great and helps with the minor swirls you see running into the sun. Been using it for 3 years on my old screen and the last two seasons on my new one. The way the price has been going up I'll probably try the Pledge as most report the same results for a lot less money.

Don't hold your breath Squeeze. It's gonna be a while. I'll be sure to let ya know when it happens.

Not that I'm in the market for one at the moment but what's your friend asking for his Rune? I got a thing for Runes. Be quiet Squeeze!!!

Check out her web site: http://www.acehighleathers.com/ She's done a lot of good quality work for our members here. Let her know you're with the VentureRiders.

I wouldn't buy the shops story for nothing. Nope. Hard to tell on the oil. Could be valve cover gaskets or even oil blowby from the crankcase vent tube if it came disconnected from the air box. Might just be some drainage from the airbox if the oil level in the case was over filled and blew some up into the airbox. If it's been sitting that long there are all kinds of reasons it won't start, starting with old gas and run down the list from there.

Glad you made it Jeff.

Have you ever questioned Windows? "Start" button to end program function? Don't ask me why........ I have no idea. At least it's right when draining. It's "ON".

Same applies to when I was driving OTR. Wasn't worried about the tractor and trailer walking away but three times I had my gear jacked from the cab while I was away from it. I wish they had the techology back then to give me a heads up when someone was screwing around. Only got the chance to meet one of the fools and he was upset when he slipped coming out of the cab. Cops had to figure out the difference in the terms of "slipping" and "thrown". They went with my version. He slipped. Yeah, proactive is a good way to go.

Yep, these are the positions for the drain valve. The 1st shot is in the "OFF" position at the 2 o'clock mark. That is the correct spot for operation of the bike with coolant passing through the thermostat. The 2nd shot is with the "ON" at the 2 o'clock position. This is only used to bypass the thermo while draining the coolant from the system through the plug in the bottom of the waterpump housing. After filling the system and running the bike for a bit to refill the jackets make sure to reset the valve back to the "OFF" setting. When filled check the coolant level at the overflow bottle. In either position you should feel the valve click into place if the detent in the valve is clean and sealed propery. NOW..... in the event that someday the bike might have a thermostat fail and stick shut you can move that valve to the "ON" position and bypass the thermo and be able to ride the bike to a safe place to make repairs. It's not a fix, it's a get by to save you from being stranded. Not a good idea for normal day to day operation. And keep an eye on your new coolant. With the description of the "brown mud" there may have been some oil in there.

Might be a combination of Apple Pie and Black Death. Nobody can focus. Has been kind of quite around here today hasn't it.

Feel free...... no charge for the truth. Now as for some of the BS.......... Please see attachment below.

I think some of the best ideas for fixing things come while pushing a 800+ pound motorcycle that don't run. Makes you think faster.

Sometimes I read something and I have to read it again to make sure I got it right. This was not something I expected to see today. Steve, all I can say is keep your chin up and move forward though this. Good things can and sometimes do happen. I'll be saying a few words for you in the meantime. Praying for your recovery and the strength for you to do the battle my friend. Mike

As long as you don't see this "Energy Saving tag" on the oil label you should be fine. "If it has the starburst on it with "energy saving" on the label, then you get to buy a new clutch because the additives will soak in and it will slip forever and ever" The oil won't hurt the motor or tranny but the slick additives in the oil will not allow the fiber friction disks in the clutch to grip properly causing the clutch to slip. Once it soaks in, it's don't come out.

That info is not correct for what you want to do. No need to remove the rings and you really don't need to, or want to.