Snaggletooth

Yep, that don't look right at all.

Some tests can be entertaining. When I was certified as a Breath Alcohol Technician for a company I issued a briefcase with a $3,000 breath alcohol analyzer in it. Several of the staff and myself spent a week "testing" the calibration on it. I called it homework research. Somehow it turned into a game of "High Score Wins". We finally had to ban the bosses wife from playing. That woman could roll out some numbers. :rotf: Good luck Paul!!!

Sometimes something dumb can be the cheapest way out. You got by with a slap on the wrist. I've saved myself a bunch of money with dumb stuff. Glad you're rolling again.

He's trying to correct the problem with the trailer wiring on his wing. Going 5 to 4 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=79498

We have some local parks here that it would get a lil crazy if you walked in and started taking pics. :rotf:

Oh no!! This is gonna get ugly. Jeff is starting to repeat himself.

I'm not qualified to discuss 2nd gen rattles as I ride one of those old leaving a trail of parts 1st gens...... but.... I seem to remember somebodies post about the mounts for the lower wind deflectors making a slight rattle when they worked loose.

ALERTS TO THREATS IN 2013 EUROPE From JOHN CLEESE The English are feeling the pinch in relation to recent events in Syria and have therefore raised their security level from "Miffed" to "Peeved”. Soon, though, security levels may be raised yet again to "Irritated"; or even "A Bit Cross." The English have not been "A Bit Cross" since the blitz in 1940 when tea supplies nearly ran out. Terrorists have been re-categorized from "Tiresome"; to "A Bloody Nuisance." The last time the British issued a "Bloody Nuisance" warning level was in 1588, when threatened by the Spanish Armada. The Scots have raised their threat level from "Pissed Off" to "Let's get the Bastards." They don't have any other levels. This is the reason they have been used on the front line of the British army for the last 300 years. The French government announced yesterday that it has raised its terror alert level from "Run" to "Hide." The only two higher levels in France are "Collaborate"; and "Surrender." The rise was precipitated by a recent fire that destroyed France's white flag factory, effectively paralyzing the country's military capability. Italy has increased the alert level from "Shout Loudly and Excitedly" to "Elaborate Military Posturing." Two more levels remain: "Ineffective Combat Operations" and "Change Sides." The Germans have increased their alert state from "Disdainful Arrogance" to "Dress in Uniform and Sing Marching Songs." They also have two higher levels: "Invade a Neighbour" and "Lose." Belgians, on the other hand, are all on holiday as usual; the only threat they are worried about is NATO pulling out of Brussels. The Spanish are all excited to see their new submarines ready to deploy. These beautifully designed subs have glass bottoms so the new Spanish navy can get a really good look at the old Spanish navy. Australia, meanwhile, has raised its security level from "No worries" to "She'll be alright, Mate." Two more escalation levels remain: "Crikey! I think we'll need to cancel the barbie this weekend!" and "The barbie is cancelled." So far no situation has ever warranted use of the last final escalation level. Regards, John Cleese, British writer, actor and tall person And as a final thought - Greece is collapsing, the Iranians are getting aggressive, and Rome is in disarray. Welcome back to 430 BC.

Doesn't Hoka Hey mean "It's a good day to die"? I like to follow that run. Considering the restrictions on the bikes and equipment it seems like the word "challenge" is quiet fitting. They were hoping to get a 1,000 riders this year from what I saw last time I checked. That is a lot of loud pipes. :rotf:

Regulator / Rectifier. It controls the output from the stator for the charging system.. It's mounted on the inside of the swing arm behind the rear passneger footpeg or floorboard on the left side. Small finned box with wires coming out of it. Two bolts from the outside mount it to the mounting bracket. You are able to remove the side panel and follow the wires back to the stator connection and to the harness. Check connections for damage.

Glad you like 'em John. Carrier pigeons move pretty fast out your way.

If I had to guess, I'd suspect the R/R first. When they start to act up it's not uncommon to see readings from barely charging to running up in excess of 16 or 17 volts. Both can raise heck with the battery. Low will drain it. High will boil it to death. Of course I'm gonna say to be sure test the stator during the process just to be sure. Just a failing stator alone will show consistant low reading. So you're probably fine there.

Some thing don't sound right but I don't have an Isolator, only a 5 to 4 converter. 5 into the converter and only four coming out to 4 wire plug for the trailer hook up.

Lou, when you turn the key on the clicking you hear is probably the fuel pump. That is normal. The CLASS controller only works in the ACC position and even then you won't hear anything until to hit a button to change the pressure. Even then it's more like a hum than a click when doing that. You can feel that placing a hand on the back of the trunk or seat.

I don't think so. With the oil plug out, the bottom bolt removed for the middle gear cover and all side covers off with a lot of twisting and leaning mine still only took about 3.5 with a new filter on it.

I think he said on another post he had removed the CLASS so if he didn't install any schrader valves on the lines he's going to be sitting pretty low in water as it is. 2X4 or 6 or 8 will be his best bet.

That is sad news. Thoughts go out to his friends and family.

Here's a few.

Ok Lou, you're a big enough guy to learn this trick and scare your buddies with the lil mini bikes, Bike sitting on sidestand. Stand on left side of bike. Left hand on left hand grip. Right hand on left rear crash guard. Ball of right foot on lever for center stand. (don't try this barefoot. Hurts like hell) Bring the center stand down so both pads sit level on the ground. The bike should be standing straight up now. Now here is the trick. While beginning to lift and pull backward with your upper body STAND and I mean put all your body weight onto the center stand lever with your right leg and the bike will come right up. It's that smple. Use your body weight on the lever instead of straining to use your upper body. As the bike comes up all your arms should be doing is pulling back a bit and keeping the bike straight as it come up. Once you get that mastered it's like a magic trick to show your buddies.

If you do decide to go with an upgrade stator your best bet is upgrading the R/R at the same time to allow full use of the new stator. Do some searchs on the subject. A few good choices are available.

Oh yeah!! Priceless!!! Gotta get one of those for Yammers driveway.

Keys on the right top so it must go right side upper dash cover. Not sure if it's MKII but I think so.

You're talking about the Hoka Hey run for the American Iron only guys me thinks.

I've done a lot of repairs and rebuilding mounting points and even cracks in the fairing sections using 2 part epoxy for hard plastics and thin sheets of ABS plastic I get from discarded advertising signs. Rough up the area wirh sandpaper, clean and clean again with alcohol or Acetone and then laminate to sheets to create a patch. Sand, drill and shape when cured. Works well and holds up for several years. On the stator..... as long as you know the transplant is good. Going to an upgrade is always a good plan as these bikes are a bit lacking in that aspect from the beginning. For a stock OEM stator it will cover the stock bikes needs and lil to spare. An upgrade don't give you a lot more but better than the OEM by a bit. All in how much you are willing to spend.

Hey Turtle, Cheapest route for a kit, probalbly a K&L kit, would be on eBay for usually less than $25.00 bucks. Or the OEM Yamaha kit with the seal and the bore boot for less than $35.00. But I'll say this up front. You're on an older bike. The slave may very well be the original. Best bet to save time and trouble is remove the slave and closely inspect the bore before ordering a kit to rebuild. If there is only minor pitting you may get away with a ball hone cleanup of the bore and be able to reseal. If it's worn badly the best route to doing it once is simply buy a new slave. Been plenty of comment here in the past about failed slave rebuilds because the bore wasn't good enough. Many have had to do it twice. I just went through this on my '84. I got lucky and got a honed core from a member and so far so good. The one I took off..... never would have cleaned up. It was shot. If the rebuild fails this time it gets a new one. So the remove and inspect before deciding may save you a few bucks even if it costs some down time. A new slave can be had for less than $130.00 depending on the supplier. Don't forget the middle gear cover gasket and crush washer. Mike