k9cottage

surprisingly it stops ok i do keep under the highway speed by about 10ks and i have my eye about 4-5 cars ahead in traffic which gives me heaps of warning and i do leave a good space between me and the car in front .

i did the VMax change on my 99 but for a different reason to fuel use i have a sidecar and pull a trailer, so for me it was for starting off without having to ride the clutch and excess throttle use and i lowered the speed i could go into 5 gear and for that reason it was a total success as far as fuel consumption goes it would be cheaper if i just took the car :-)

i have about 2000ks on mine now and it is perfect thanks dave

i modified mine about 3 months ago [sick of the oil in the air cleaner] i bent up some 3/8 aluminium tube from a car aircon system to a fuel filter them en extra 3" of rubber tube above the filter right up under the tank my plan was the oil could travel up till it reaches the filter [using it as a catch can] any fumes have to go through the fuel filter up through the extra rubber tube if any oil settles in the filter when the motor is off it will run back down the tube back into the motor i then filled with oil to the top of the sight glass i am happy to say i have clean air filter and no oil out the top of the fuel filter tube .

if you put the o ring between the spring and the washer then the spring would cut the o ring so pick shows it all in the right order

i striped mine down today replaced the o ring cleaned it all and put it back together i did use 15 fork oil as i have a sidecar and wanted it a bit stiffer. when i put it back on the bike i jumped up and down on the pillion foot boards and it started to pogo for three bounces then the system bled itself and it stiffened up tis sitting now with 50psi feels perfect and can't wait to test it . a big thanks to dfitzbiz for figuring this out .

https://www.alt-codes.net/ you will find them here

i took one look at where the fuel filter was and decided to move it with a bit of extra fuel hose it fits nicely under the seat easy to see and replace

sounds like a bad earth to one of the lights

you can always make one using either gasket paper from the hardware store or the side of a breakfast cereal box a pair of scissors and a stanley knife take about 15 minutes a small ball pain hammer is handy as well .https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rx5hGKt1PY .

brake fluid is water soluble engine oil is not so if you put some water on the floor and it mixes it is break fluid [clutch fluid] a quick check if it is engine oil it won't mix.

if you tap the fuel bowls with the handle of a screwdriver a few times it will usually free the needle and stop the overflow worth a try

i have been having a similar strange problem fine when cold and when i heats up feels like fuel problem so reset up the carbs ,still the same i was putting the tank back on and had a look at the wiring loom under the tank all looked ok so i turned over the main ignition power lead the [pink and red] plug to find it had melted the underside of the plug. repaired it and now is running fine again i had seen a thread on the subject but it didn't seem like an electrical problem but might be worth a look. just found the link http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?32359-Ignition-Switch-Wiring-Failure

i find the vacume tubes are like the old chinese finger traps if you use a small pair of pointy nose pliers and leaver them of from the end they come easy

i just got this on ebay in tassie should be here monday seems to have lots of settings for different sorts of motors http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BLUE-hour-meter-tachometer-maintenance-timer-yz-yzf-wr-xt-125-250-450-Yamaha/152010357877?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140106155344%26meid%3D31d40d6961f74c1dbdd7c7fc54e654af%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D161894488517

i did learn the hard way about the oil holes on the coupler .i greased both ends of the drive shaft when putting it back and the grease blocked the oil holes mine looked similar the pick above after a 7500k trip to alice springs with sidecar and pulling a trailer i now have a vmax diff in the bike.

you will find it in the master about the size if a pin head

did mine in neutral but as i am in tasmania it was hard doing it upside down:rotfl:

mine was an 880 marathon

same thing here i got 1500ks out of mine there excuse to me was i was towing a trailer never again will i use metzler on anything and i tell every one

i have the same thing bugged the hell out of me so i rebuilt the motor & replacing all the gearbox bearings it is still there not bad when cold annoying when hot .was told by yam dealer it was the clutch basket and don't worry about it .i did read recently someone ran an oil line to the gear driving it seemed to quieten it .so now i just try to ignore it. it is not getting any worse.

sometimes when removing the axel the spacer collar and washer will jam on the swing arm [right hand side] a light tap on the swing arm will free it.

a short while ago a discussion on the back pressure hole in the master cylinder by any chance could this be your problem [just thinking out loud ] of anything that can go wrong with the clutch . i had this happen on my bike and thought the clutch was slipping was a small piece of what looked like a grain of sand i got it out with a small bit of wire and all is good now. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?117486-Crazy-scary

just a thought when you dismantled the clutch did you take the pushrod out if you did you may have left the small ball out [they have a habit of rolling away if you don't keep an eye on them] this would let the slave go fully out and get hard. part #22

it might be the sump is overfilled and it is coming out the air filter box