Jump to content

SilvrT

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    10,878
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by SilvrT

  1. eh? .. what bad? it's all good! Well, thanks to you and your suggestion to use a rubber O-ring, I'm happy to report that I no longer have a coolant leak! What a great thread this was.. extremely informant and helpful! What a great bunch of guys... thanks all of you!
  2. eh? .. what bad? it's all good! Well, thanks to you and your suggestion to use a rubber O-ring, I'm happy to report that I no longer have a coolant leak! What a great thread this was.. extremely informant and helpful! What a great bunch of guys... thanks all of you!
  3. Now Now boys... let's not get into a "my dad is stronger than your dad" fight... :rotf: :witch_brew:
  4. Looking at the pic of yours (the electrical one), yes, mine is taller if I use the non-fouler also. I would then have the non-fouler, the modified adapter, the fitting from the kit and then the sending unit. Take away the non-fouler, and mine would be about the same height. (methinks)
  5. Looking at the pic of yours (the electrical one), yes, mine is taller if I use the non-fouler also. I would then have the non-fouler, the modified adapter, the fitting from the kit and then the sending unit. Take away the non-fouler, and mine would be about the same height. (methinks)
  6. I asked to save reading backwards to check my memory (I did recall you using electrical coz I looked closely at your fittings pics). I haven't checked yet but it appears that if I use the non-fouler, plus the adapter, plus the fittings for the sending unit, I won't have enuf room.
  7. I asked to save reading backwards to check my memory (I did recall you using electrical coz I looked closely at your fittings pics). I haven't checked yet but it appears that if I use the non-fouler, plus the adapter, plus the fittings for the sending unit, I won't have enuf room.
  8. You're using a mechanical or electrical gauge? and hey... no apology neccessary!
  9. You're using a mechanical or electrical gauge? and hey... no apology neccessary!
  10. hmmmmmmmm... that's about what I did the first time... maybe a bit more... second time (with a new gasket) I cranked it (magilla gorilla style ... almost!) ... got less of a leak on second go-round. First time I used teflon tape...second time I used pipe thread sealer. I'm gonna pull it apart this evening and see what's up. (more later)
  11. hmmmmmmmm... that's about what I did the first time... maybe a bit more... second time (with a new gasket) I cranked it (magilla gorilla style ... almost!) ... got less of a leak on second go-round. First time I used teflon tape...second time I used pipe thread sealer. I'm gonna pull it apart this evening and see what's up. (more later)
  12. hey Dan ... I've felt what you're feeling... more than once. Look at it this way... it's a stepping stone to something better. all the best to ya!
  13. Since I am using the mechanical gauge, I don't use the non-fouler for anything other than the re-threading of the brass adapter (Watts # A-218). Maybe I should be using the non-fouler also??? not according to Goose's instructions (or did I read it wrong?).... I think the whole assembly would be too high if I did.
  14. Since I am using the mechanical gauge, I don't use the non-fouler for anything other than the re-threading of the brass adapter (Watts # A-218). Maybe I should be using the non-fouler also??? not according to Goose's instructions (or did I read it wrong?).... I think the whole assembly would be too high if I did.
  15. Good idea Goose... now as for that crush washer...seems to me if it will work on a spark plug where the cylinder pressure can be upwards of 150 psi, it should be able to hold back 12-14psi coolant pressure... me thinks it just doesn't seat properly on the tapered (or maybe rounded is a better word) edge of the brass fitting... I believe the actual non-fouler has a flat flange, thus a better seal (similar to a spark plug). I also note that on that particular brass fitting that the area where the washer fits does not have any thread...maybe that has something to do with it as it seems to crush the washer outwards. (I should take a pic of what it looks like when I take it out) Well, I'm going to try the rubber O-ring and at the same time, I'll plaster some pipe thread sealer on the threads. I'll be doing some close inspection of those threads in the head first tho just to ensure they haven't been damaged.
  16. Good idea Goose... now as for that crush washer...seems to me if it will work on a spark plug where the cylinder pressure can be upwards of 150 psi, it should be able to hold back 12-14psi coolant pressure... me thinks it just doesn't seat properly on the tapered (or maybe rounded is a better word) edge of the brass fitting... I believe the actual non-fouler has a flat flange, thus a better seal (similar to a spark plug). I also note that on that particular brass fitting that the area where the washer fits does not have any thread...maybe that has something to do with it as it seems to crush the washer outwards. (I should take a pic of what it looks like when I take it out) Well, I'm going to try the rubber O-ring and at the same time, I'll plaster some pipe thread sealer on the threads. I'll be doing some close inspection of those threads in the head first tho just to ensure they haven't been damaged.
  17. THANKS M8T .... I'm gonna go with your advice and I'll let ya know what happens.
  18. THANKS M8T .... I'm gonna go with your advice and I'll let ya know what happens.
  19. What about a nylon gasket similar to one used on an oil drain plug? If one fits snug to the threads but is a tad too big for the raised shoulder, then it would be easy to trim it....?? Still concerned tho about just how tight one can crank these things down without concern of stripping the threads in the head. I'm guessing that part of the head is aluminum so my thinking is the aluminum threads would strip rather easy before the threads on the brass fitting...??? yes/no? I'd be totally devastated if I stripped those threads in the head ...!!!
  20. What about a nylon gasket similar to one used on an oil drain plug? If one fits snug to the threads but is a tad too big for the raised shoulder, then it would be easy to trim it....?? Still concerned tho about just how tight one can crank these things down without concern of stripping the threads in the head. I'm guessing that part of the head is aluminum so my thinking is the aluminum threads would strip rather easy before the threads on the brass fitting...??? yes/no? I'd be totally devastated if I stripped those threads in the head ...!!!
  21. I used this part from Freebird's writeup on installing the gauges... "you will need to purchase a brass ½” tube to ½” female pipe adaptor (I got mine at Lowes, Watts part number A-218)" I notice that the edge that mates up with the gasket is slightly beveled and the washer off the non-fouler is not a tight fit and I think that is why this particular washer has a tendency to "distort" as it's being compressed. What kind of O-ring did you use? I'm wondering if there's an adapter similar to the A-218 that has a flat mating surface? I will admit tho that the coolant "weeping" is extremely minimal. I put on about 200 km's on Sunday after re-installing the washer and re-tightening it and the green coolant was just slightly visible around the lower edge of the fitting where it meets the gasket and the head and it wasn't over-filling the edge to the point that it would spill over (which it was doing the first time around).
  22. I used this part from Freebird's writeup on installing the gauges... "you will need to purchase a brass ½” tube to ½” female pipe adaptor (I got mine at Lowes, Watts part number A-218)" I notice that the edge that mates up with the gasket is slightly beveled and the washer off the non-fouler is not a tight fit and I think that is why this particular washer has a tendency to "distort" as it's being compressed. What kind of O-ring did you use? I'm wondering if there's an adapter similar to the A-218 that has a flat mating surface? I will admit tho that the coolant "weeping" is extremely minimal. I put on about 200 km's on Sunday after re-installing the washer and re-tightening it and the green coolant was just slightly visible around the lower edge of the fitting where it meets the gasket and the head and it wasn't over-filling the edge to the point that it would spill over (which it was doing the first time around).
  23. I've installed the mechanical water temp as per instructions but am still getting a small "weeping" leak where the modified fitting (using the spark plug fouler to re-form the threads trick) screws into the head. It seems the gasket from the fouler isn't sealing completely. I've put pipe thread sealer on the threads and tightened it down pretty good but maybe not enough...but, I'm afraid to strip the threads on the head. Just how tight can I go with this thing? I'm on the second washer...when I pulled it out the first time (to fix the leak), it seemed the washer was distorted and obvioulsy not seating properly. Maybe that's the same issue with the second washer..?? Maybe a different washer would work better? Any thoughts / suggestions guys?
  24. I've installed the mechanical water temp as per instructions but am still getting a small "weeping" leak where the modified fitting (using the spark plug fouler to re-form the threads trick) screws into the head. It seems the gasket from the fouler isn't sealing completely. I've put pipe thread sealer on the threads and tightened it down pretty good but maybe not enough...but, I'm afraid to strip the threads on the head. Just how tight can I go with this thing? I'm on the second washer...when I pulled it out the first time (to fix the leak), it seemed the washer was distorted and obvioulsy not seating properly. Maybe that's the same issue with the second washer..?? Maybe a different washer would work better? Any thoughts / suggestions guys?
  25. "boating" ... "floating" .... good choice of words! You planned that...right?
×
×
  • Create New...