djh3

looks good. I remember someone thinking about running them along the "eyebrows" on thier second gen. Wonder if it got done?

The cart button is on only your computer man. I didnt push it. Your not alone though it causes me troubles also. I read stuff and then wonder about fixing or modifying mine. Same with adding some of the parts. But good thing I'm not a chrome guy I guess. I dont like polishing the stuff.

This one a fellow was installing and I think had to hook 2 leads to 2 different coils or something to get the RPM to read right. It looks almost like and autometer.

Bob, just bought a new power cable with mini USB on it. I have been using the multiple pin one that has the traffic thing on it and like 20 pins and goes in on bottom of GPS. (756t) Its a PIA to get out in the RAM holder and even worse now that I mad a high dollar sun screen for it. Cant get mitts in there to pinch the thing to get out. I got one off e-bay and it has a 90 deg mini usb on it. So far it works great. Never put much stock in the traffic update thing any who.

If you buggered the bore there you may be able to use a angled pick to clear the crushed aluminum out of the way. If it is not wrecked to bad.

Gaucho, I agree with Dan there. If your not going to be ably to ride it for an hour or so I wouldnt put a battery in it until your ready to ride. If its the type with the acid/water in it check the level. If its up charge it for awhile slow. Short trips are killer on any vehicle battery. Most of the time the charging systems are made that vehicles have to run 30 min or so to charge back what they used to start. I bought a AGm battery from Bohannon battery up by Jacksonville for around $90 shipped to the house. I think Wal mart may have one for around $45. OK so I was wrong. Checked Wally world and Autozone. They want more for the acid type than bohannon does for the AGM Deka.

Over full on oil possibly. It will push it out the breather hoses. usually thats up by leg fairings though.

At the shop our general rule of thumb was Green-needs torch to take apart. We lock bearings onto transmission and racing gears with it. Probably nothing on your bike you need this for. Red-use on steel to steel, nuts bolts etc. Semi permanent, may need some heat to remove. Blue will keep most bolts and nuts from loosening, use on aluminum fasteners.

Not sure I totally understand. But try plugging the unit into power then turn on. then work your destination stuff. Also do you have more than one cord for power?

OH my. I hate to ask why you took 2 shims out at same time.

these are $20 off ebay. Same style horn and just as loud. I have a couple and they have worked for over 2yr. Go loud!! http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTk1WDU5NQ==/$(KGrHqFHJEoFDOIebjmUBQ83BnT+M!~~60_12.JPG

Check your battery connections as mentioned. If you have extra stuff wired into make sure your OEM battery cables are first in line on top of battery posts, then whatever is added on top of those. At first I was thinking fuel pump. But if it wont turn over............ Let me know, I got an 07 RSV in the garage I'm troubleshooting a intermittent start problem. Sometimes it does, sometimes it dont.

Mine Still worked, even though it looked like ka-ka. I was doing some other stuff and saw the ugly looking thing and tried to open it. SNAP.I too replaced it with the same style fuses that are used on the bike. I figure why carry 3 different kinds of fuses.

Thanks, thats pretty much what I had heard. The wiring layout was significantly different and connectors also. I couldnt remember where the key was but I knew it wasn't on the tank like the newer stuff is. This should be a help to those with that vintage bike. funny how the more times you take these things apart you find short cuts. Now if I could find a few for doing the valves.

First time I ran wires up under the tank I had no idea how it came off. I actually used some mechanics wire as a fish tape up under the gas tank and then pulled the new wire thru with it. The gas tank is pretty easy. Like was mentioned, low fuel level makes it easier. Turn petcock off, remove the clamp. Mine was a simple squeeze clamp and I put a 3/16 bolt in it to keep fuel from running out from carb side. 2 front bolts are 5mm allen heads they are in a triangle looking rubber piece at front side of tank. the rear is a regular 12mm bolt head. Lift tank up at rear then up a little and sort of slide back. Here is a thread with pictures and everything. So simple a cave man could do it.

One of my contacts has had the older style TD. He tells me the switch is different and een in a different place I think. Is it down by the side cover or something?

I think I basically took that schematic and used the wire they installed to power the passing lights for the "trip" on the relay. that way it works with the lights and not when they are off. Save a guy from having to hunt for a key on power source.

Noticed the other day a small crack extending from one of the mont holes on the OEM. Dont know what I will go to. I have a shield I cut down a little, but its maybe a little to short. The OEM is a bit to tall in rain for me. I hate to buy a shield and then decide its not what I want. Anyone make their own out of lexan?

Brian has a 09 for sale on here and M61amech Steve will have his for sale now that he is going over to the big red team.

Well somewhere on her is instructions on how to do it. Its pretty simple, the most work is probably removing the gas tank. Importance. HMMMM Well the instructions tell you to connect to the headlight circuit. Best I can tell it has a 15 amp fuse in it, so reason would tell you that it requires minimum of about 10 amp or so to operate with a little left over for fudge factor rite? The passing lights come with a 10 amp fuse and they want you to connect to the headlight circuit that already has minimum 10 amps draw. Kind of like running all the lights in your house thru one light switch. Here is a pic of my OEM fuse holder for the passing lights when I discovered it. Surprising thing was they still worked. Think they draw a little voltage?

On a guess a check valve or pressure relief. Most injectors if I remember are sort of a check valve to closed position and solenoid valve open. It gets an electric pulse that tells the solenoid operated injector to open. Otherwise its forced close by a spring.

Almost any first year model vehicle of anything is prone to issues. I know a couple guys that have the first year or so of HD with the FI. Both have removed it and replaced with carbs and chucked the FI. Later models run like a champ. Growing pains I guess.

Man the whole state is going to heck. Brake Pad, Barry now you geze. Ride safe and enjoy.

Yea its bad to me. About 15 min more and $5 and it would be installed correctly, well better anyways. I'm not sure where they tap it in at I think it was a green wire. Looks to be headlight.

I have got the fairing split currently so I can OHM out the start button. When Eddie dropped the bike off he said as he was getting ready to bring it to me it wouldnt start. Go figure. but he flipped the ignition switch a couple times and still no start then kept pushing the thumb button and it fired up. So I have connector pulled apart to ohm it out. It shows continuity but not every time. I can press button and say 3 out of 5 time it goes straight 000. The others it may go .9 or 1.2 then go to 000. If holding the button it has went 000 then worked its way back to say .5 or more. sitting in the garage before I touched anything turned switch on and lights and all the goodies, hit button........ nothing. thumb it once or twice fires off.