Prairiehammer

Here is a graphic of the CMS and it's icons.

I'll make a deal with you, Marty. Become a supporting member here and I will synchronize your carbs for free. Just ride the bike over here.

That 'bolt' is a plug. A technician would remove that plug and screw in the CO sensor of the exhaust analyzer. To avoid confusion: the cylinders are numbered thus: LF=#2, LR=#1, RF=#4, RR=#3.

I wish I could help, Jason, but the 'maps' I have are for the 1990, I think it is different for the 1986, since the 1990 has only one pick-up. Maybe not. @dingy will chime in here now (now that I have 'paged' him) to offer a solution.

Red Covered Bridge near Princeton? Why is there a DNR officer stationed there? Don't they have better things to do than harass photographers?

Yes. The 1985 trunk is larger; virtually the same size as the 1986>, but is still removable like the 1983 & 1984.

Correct. The transmission from a XVZ1300, 1986-1993 will interchange with 1983-1985 XVZ1200 without issue. Here is one from a 1989 that is even more complete, with balance shaft, output gear, shift drum and shift forks for only $52.50! http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Yamaha-Venture-XVZ1300-XVZ-1300-transmission-trans-tranny-/291375484776?hash=item43d7550f68&vxp=mtr Here's another good buy from a 1986: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-1986-1993-XVZ1300-Transmission-Gearset-w-Trans-Output-Gears-Set-/400792958067?hash=item5d511f3473&vxp=mtr

Anssi, if you are considering using used transmission parts, only use those parts from the 1986-1993 Venture. Parts from a 1983-1985 transmission will have the same problems with second gear that you have. Complete 1986-1993 XVZ1300 transmissions are on eBay, sometimes for very little money. http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-YAMAHA-XVZ1300-VENTURE-XVZ-1300-YM102B-ENGINE-TRANSMISSION-GEAR-SHAFT-ASSY-/351351360728?hash=item51ce2c4cd8&vxp=mtr I obtained the complete transmission from a 1986 for $30 USD; less money than a single new gear.

Admirable resurrection!

For that kind of money, it had BETTER look sweet!

Skid. Your float level is prolly gonna be a bit too high.

The small orangish filter/strainer is actually the standpipe. It has been removed from the petcock body in that picture. Yes, sometimes debris from the tank will plug the strainer(s). Unless the debris is adhered gasoline varnish, back flushing will usually clear the screen. More commonly, the plastic standpipe(s) fall out of the petcock body. Then of course, there is no strainer to plug, but the debris will pass through the open petcock, hopefully to be captured by the main fuel filter. If the taller standpipe does fall out, then there is no reserve capability. In the Venture carbs there is also a small, stainless steel, fine mesh filter (called the net filter) immediately before the float valve assembly. It is rare to have a plugged net filter.

I've contemplated that question myself in the past. The valve consists of a hollow plastic tapered plug. Tapered plug valves are inherently difficult to turn because of the high friction between the tapered plug and the matching tapered cavity in the valve body. Add the accumulated gasoline varnish and detritus of 25 years and the friction is even greater. If the tapered cavity within the potmetal petcock body becomes corroded (likely) then the tapered cone/plug gets even harder to turn. I would clean the plastic plug/cone and clean the internal cavity, ensuring there is no pitting or abrasive crud. If you decide to use an aggressive abrasive on either, be very careful to not remove any material or change the shape and fit of the tapered cone or cavity. Finally, a bit of grease (silicone or petroleum) will undoubtedly help relieve some of the friction, but I have my doubts as to longevity of the lubricant in the gasoline environment.

If by 'small inline filter' you mean the two upright vertical plastic strainers, yes there are two of those strainers on all the First Gen Venture petcocks, except for the 1983, where there is just one strainer, because the 1983 petcock does not have a reserve.

Buddy Armstrong @buddy with number 000208 and Kim, @Kroc have the oldest Ventures on this site (that I am aware of) with 000240. Both January 1983.

I suspect the gooey, crinkly stuff in the tank is the residue remaining after the gasoline evaporated, ie, "varnish". I would start with the safest solvent first. Perhaps undiluted SeaFoam? Or a bucket of 'dip' or 'soak' type carburetor cleaner, ie, Berrymans. Some mechanical agitation with chains, nuts, bolts, etc and shaking and tumbling will probably be in order as well. Never tried this, but perhaps a steam cleaner would work? Or a high pressure hot water washer with a caustic detergent? Or consider getting a better condition tank on eBay.

Yes.

Here a couple pics that show where the float bowl drain lines are as well as the float bowl drain valve. Also a pic that shows the fuel level gage mark on the side of the carb body. Attach a clear hose to the drain line, open the float bowl drain valve and observe the fuel level in the clear tube. The fuel level should be 14mm ± 0.5mm (according to the 1983 Yamaha Service Manual) below the mark on the carb body.

There a couple of master cylinder assemblies (including the reservoir) for the MKII on eBay. The MKII reservoir will work. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-Yamaha-XVZ13-Venture-Royale-XVZ-1300-Rear-Brake-Master-Cylinder-S011231-17B-/141584647223?hash=item20f71a4437&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/86-1986-Yamaha-XVZ13-Venture-Royale-1300-Rear-Brake-Master-Cylinder-SXVZ13-17B-/111575584357?hash=item19fa6c4e65&vxp=mtr Not cheap, but free shipping and you get a spare master cylinder and reservoir hose and reservoir float switch.

One issue with a non-Venture rear brake reservoir is the proximity to the rear exhaust headers. I suspect that the OEM Venture reservoir is metal for that reason. Most anything will work as a reservoir for the brake fluid, but most non-Venture reservoirs are plastic and might distort or even melt.

I can't help you as to the size of that O-ring, but here is a pic of a disassembled 1983 '26H' petcock. The '41R' (since superseded by the '3JJ') petcock on your 1984 may be similar. Of course, make sure your fuel tank is empty before disassembling the petcock! The 1984 41R: This MIGHT be the O-ring you require: http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-FUEL-VALVE-PETCOCK-GASKET-LEVER-SEAL-YFP350-YFS200-YFA1-XVZ1300-XVZ12-/360924277737 Here is a complete used 1984 petcock: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Yamaha-Venture-XVZ12-D-fruel-shut-off-fuel-petcock-/201323851491?hash=item2edfd62ee3&vxp=mtr

The fuel pump is an "on demand" pump. If the float bowls are full, the pump will not run, until there is a demand for fuel (fuel being consumed from carb float bowl).

I am going to say, yes, but only because when comparing mounting brackets intended for each version, the brackets appear to bolt onto the frame in the same locations and configuration. The actual footboards are different in appearance, but that probably shouldn't change the mounts. Do you know the brand of the heel/toe floor boards? VentureLine? MC Enterprises? Markland?

Thank you Phil.

Great write up, Carl! However, the parts requirements should be modified. If the new style segment 4NK-18185-00-00 is used, then the Plate, Side 1 cannot be used in conjunction with the new segment. Also, there is no need to order a new Plate, stopper. It does not require replacement to use the new style segment. Most importantly, though, is the requirement for new dowel pins. The old style dowel pins are too long to fit into the new style segment. One will need to order five short pins (93604-12037-00) and one long pin (93604-16092-00), or one could cut down the old dowel pins, I suppose. These new dowel pins (93604-12037-00) are available on eBay: http://tinyurl.com/qf6xesl And here for the longer dowel (93604-16092-00): http://tinyurl.com/q3tpegt In case your dealer doesn't have them.