Prairiehammer

Jeff, That was Gary's thinking (finally) as well. Apparently, the A/D on the MKI handles the oil differently than the A/D on the MKII. I don't know if Earl has modified his MKII block-offs or not. The groove or passage between the O-ringed ports on the MKII block-offs would certainly complicate the required sealing gaskets or O-rings.

Others here have experienced the hard suspension after doing the anti-dive block offs on the MKII. If I remember correctly, Dingy finally determined that a simple anti-dive block off plate on the MKII interfered with the flow of oil in the forks. I think JimmyEnglish had such an issue, maybe someone else. I think reinstalling the OEM anti-dive units (but disconnecting the anti-dives electrically) fixed these instances of hard suspension. Many who have installed Progressive™ front springs have not used any spacer. It seems that the fork cap provides just the right amount of preload. YMMV Here's the thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73466 And it was an issue with the A/D block-off plates on the MKII.

Stryker with sissy bar. Looks very chopperesque and she might not fall off.

I know the Stryker isn't like this sport bike, but show this to him and remind him how much he likes his wife. http://s01.yapfiles.ru/files/596941/1366038901_1021558987.gif

@Pete: 10,000+ members is not an accurate count for current paid members. If you view the Member List, there currently are 1773 and many of those are Trial Members, ie; non paying.

Here's a pic of the rear brake switch:

Here's my set-up: I've since added another relay to the right side of the airbox for driving lights and have placed the Ignitech TCI on the airbox as well. Here's a link to the thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66650

So sorry for offering a tip on installation. According to Earl, there is a (self-aligning) rib on the Second Gen to make sure the gasket doesn't become dislodged...resulting in a leak. I wasn't aware that Second Gen gaskets wouldn't seal for years. Carry on.

I've heard tell here (or somewhere) that using the Second Gen valve cover gaskets on the First Gen makes for an easier installation. Don't know why that would be so, though. Here's the thread in which SkyDoc recommends the Second Gen gaskets, post #10. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=404213

I didn't know they had enough GREEN grass in Oz to play golf there. Must have learned everything he knows in the USA.

Must be a pretty loud noise, then. You got me, as to cause, unless it is like Peter says (and like friesman had happen); the pinion broke. But I can't tell from here.

I am surprised that "Expired Membership" individuals can "thank" a posting. Look and see who "thanked" PGunn's post. "Sunman" aka Sonny. Yep, the one and same that this thread is about. The Sunman profile still has all his contact info.

A rattling noise in the clutch is fairly common. Pulling in the clutch lever while idling usually ceases the racket. Mine does it. Though I've never noticed it going down the road at speed. Was this noise actually present going down the road or just when you run it in gear on the centerstand?

It can be done, but it would require a different trunk mounting rack (one from an 1986 or newer). I am uncertain if the sub-frame on an '83 is the same as on a 1986. The trunk mounting rack bolts to the sub-frame. The trunk would not be removeable after this modification, unlike the trunks on the 1983-1985.

Did the clicking continue with the clutch lever pulled in as you coasted in fourth or fifth? If it did; as the bike slowed, did the clicking frequency slow as well?

Did the clicking go away in fifth gear? Did the clicking sound increase and decrease with change in road speed? Was the click rhythmic? Did the sound change in intensity or frequency with a change in engine rpm? Could you identify where the sound was coming from? Engine? Wheels? Helmet?

Mike's photos are good. And here is a picture of the Markland trailer hitch installation sheet.

1986 US Royale had the Urishi Black (Primary) with Marshall Gold (Secondary) and Birch Brown (Primary) with Copper Brown (Secondary). 1986 Canadian Standard had Midnight Silver (Blue) As far as I can tell there was no US Standard Venture in 1986.

Brian, It can be a bit of a pain to remove those scoops without damaging the two tabs opposite of the screw. The tabs are deeply notched to catch a lip around the perimeter of the fairing opening. Like Randy says, try to wiggle/slide the scoop toward the centerline of the bike while twisting the screw side out. I broke one of the tabs off the my chrome scoops while installing. But once the screw is installed it can't fall out nor is it loose. The scoop has to fit inside the black plastic duct that is inside the fairing when reinstalling. It wasn't easy to do on my bike.

That list is not correct for 1987 Ventures, at least for US market Ventures. 1987 Standard (US): Primary= Orion Silver (Dark Blue), Secondary= Aurora Silver (Light Blue) 1987 Royale (US): Primary= Alluvial Gold, Secondary = Silky Gold 1987 Royale (US): Primary= Elegant Brown (Medium Greyish Brown), Secondary= Imperial Brown (Tan) Urishi Black/Marshall Gold was not a US 1987 Venture color. Birch Brown/Copper Brown was not a US 1987 Venture color.

1983 Petcock http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-FZX700-S-SC-T-TC-Fazer1986-1987-NEW-Fuel-Petcock-Gas-Tank-Switch-Tap-/400459241942?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3d3b19d6&vxp=mtr

I may be beating a dead horse, but all this talk of vacuuming and drilling around the gas tank is scaring me. I certainly don't want to learn that this exercise in cleaning a tank has resulted in singed eyebrows or much worse. A friend of mine was installing a gas tank in a car last fall when it exploded. The force of the blast broke his neck and he has spent the last several months recovering. The tank he was installing had been sitting empty and open to the atmosphere (through the removed fuel pump port) for several days and yet... As I have said before, the use of any electrical tool, be it shop vac or electric drill in the vicinity of the open gasoline tank is an accident waiting to happen. Brian, the creation of a hole in the filler neck is a Second Generation tip to allow more fuel. I am not certain that it is an issue with the First Generation. Even if you decide it is important, do not use an electric drill motor to create this vent hole. If you feel you must clean the rust with a wire brush, use a brass (non sparking) wire brush. Be safe. I am continually amazed at the lackadaisical attitude people exhibit when it comes to gasoline. Gasoline and it's fumes are dangerous!

I know you said once the tank was dry, but the idea of using a shop vac to clean a gasoline tank is a very risky endeavor. The universal motor on most shop vacs use brushes in the motor that arc. And the evacuated fumes are blown right through the motor and past the arcing brushes.

Pond monster ? Never mind. I'm still in the running for the Master Bedroom, Don?