Prairiehammer

I replaced the wires and caps on my '83 with a spark plug wire set intended for a 1994 Suzuki Swift, AutoZone #189740, -9741. Caps were molded on to the wires. The wires are carbon core (resistor). One thing: the plug caps require spark plug nuts screwed onto the NGK plug ends.

Another source for ABS: most plastic computer cases. I've used cut up cases for repairs utilizing ABS cement (it is black and the repair, done properly, is stronger than stock.) MEK solvent is your friend. In fact, for some repairs I've used MEK alone to glue ABS parts together. Downside: not as many black parts on old computers.

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-54K-2171Y-02-00.html http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-54K-2172Y-02-00.html http://www.ronayers.com/ProductDetails/N/687/SKU/750558 http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/yamaha-grill-side-cover-1-54k-2171y-02-00-part.html http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products/655899

Coincidentally, I have been contemplating that exact thing this week! I've been pondering materials, techniques and out of the box ideas (Kydex, PVC, aluminum, brass, even wood mini blinds and house floor registers) but nothing yet. New OEM vents are still available from Yamaha but their price is out of my range ($143 EACH). The stock plastic is ABS and I did fix one louver that broke in two with ABS cement, but then another broke the little pivot arm and that piece is long gone. It would be fairly easy to make a block off plate to replace the louvers, but I want to retain the capability to open or close the vent. I find the open vent a nice source of heat in chilly weather. Good luck and keep us abreast of your findings and progress. Oh, BTW, Welcome!

So, forever thereafter known as "Condor's Twinky".

And made in the USA!

I just took mine out this Spring. Remove the airbox, I removed the front plastic baffle that sits on the valve cover (take it out the right side of the bike) then I used a small ratchet with a 1" long #3 Phillips head driver in a ¼" socket and they came right out. A mirror helped me to see the screws. Mine weren't rusted at all and came out without much effort. I also removed the "boost sensor" first (using the same wrench set-up) although it may not HAVE to be removed. Removing it just gave me some more room. I installed Dingy's Ignitech on the airbox and didn't reinstall the old TCI. I did reinstall the boost sensor so that I could fall back to stock without difficulty, if needed. I used conventional hex head bolts to reinstall the boost sensor (makes it easier to remove in the future). The hardest part of the job was reassembling the airbox especially the crankcase ventilation hose from the airbox to the "twinky". Don't forget to re-install the plastic baffle onto the valve cover.

Actually, it was a Mazda design and it was the Ford Escape that was a re-badged Tribute. Both built on the same assembly line in Missouri.

How about demounting that tire changer and bringing it with you to Freebird's MD? Twenty-five dollars a pop? I'll supply the tire.

Andy, Here is a diagram that Dingy included in his Relay 101 document. Note that the wire gauge to/from terminal 85 and 86 can be fairly small (diameter); that is a low wattage signaling circuit. The wire from your 12 volt positive for the air compressor, terminals 87 and 30 should be a bit heavier gauge since those wires are carrying the load current for the horn. I wouldn't grab power for the horn from terminal 30 on your headlight relay; find a blank fuse holder for the horn, and use the output from that fuse to energize both the horn relay signal (terminal 85) and the horn load (terminal 87).

It should work. How much power does your GPS pull? What is the wattage output for the linked harness? Seems like a LOT of money.

The pink wire (it is to ground) is switched by the horn button. There is no "power" to the horn button; the horn button when depressed completes the ground circuit.

OK, IC.

Yes, there is a direct wire to the battery option that utilizes the Garmin cord end for the cradle at one end and a pigtail at the other end for connecting to the battery and there is a black box (electronic transformer) in the middle. Be sure, if you buy one of those, that the Garmin end is for the cradle receptacle (like this) and not for the mini-USB receptacle (like this). While your GPS will run using the USB, the screen will not be bright enough to read outdoors.

I think you are potentially creating a risk over a non-issue.

Do not wire 12 volt directly to the Garmin without the knock down transformer that is built into the cigarette lighter plug. If you cut off the male cig lighter plug and run the pigtail directly to the Garmin from a 12 volt source, you will most likely damage the GPS unit. Perhaps the cord is bad. Does the nüvi work with that power cord in any other vehicle cig lighter power outlet?

John, I found James McCoy's widow, Roberta in Hilliard, OH. I talked to her on the phone and explained about the letter. She was very pleased and would appreciate the letter. She is old and frail so, I'm not sure if she fully understood how I knew about the letter, but bottom line, I told her it would be mailed to her. You might want to include a note in the envelope to her explaining the whole find and explain that you are not Kevin Campbell but how Kevin Campbell was just researching for you. I will PM you her address.

I found out Wetzel's Mother and Father name. Also his siblings names. James F. McCoy is his brother and was married in 1950 to Roberta. The family bounced between Otway, OH and Lincoln County, WV. There is a much younger brother named "Rauft" (Ralph?) born about 1935. He may still be alive, too. For those so inclined (I ran out of time this weekend) to dig deeper, Roberta was born about 1931, so she may be a survivor with some information. Otway is a tiny hamlet in Scioto County, Ohio. If these surviving relatives are still in the Portsmouth or Lucasville, Ohio area, there is a good chance of finding them. When I get some more time, I will keep looking for survivors of Wetzel.

The OEM buttons are apparently swaged together (kind of like rivets) and are not offered separately. It MIGHT be possible to reset the loose button with the appropriate setting tool (a hammer and round end punch) but I think the correct compression of the button would be difficult to accomplish without adversely affecting the floating function. There are replacement buttons available for Brembo floating rotors. Perhaps the appropriate size could be used as a replacement for the stock buttons after machining or drilling the originals out. This is something that I have never heard of happening on the VR. Since it involves brakes, I would be hesitant to jury rig a fix. Probably better to obtain another rear rotor. Inspect the caliper for damage as well.

It is still not a bargain, but the OEM boots are available here and here for about half your quoted price.

Another place has them: http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/4/Make/Yamaha/YearID/31/Year/1990/ModelID/2239/Model/XVZ1300DAC_VENTURE_ROYALE/GroupID/347495/Group/WATER_PUMP_ Mfg. Part Number: 26H-12446-00-00 and don't forget the O-rings.

Are you speaking of the front fork gaiters? The black rubber accordion thingies? If so, join the crowd of fork protector needers. I think there was a member here some time back making leather fork protectors. Maybe Condor or Black Owl can steer you in that direction. Mine are broken at the folds in a couple places. Until I find suitable replacements, I found that if you loosen the "hose clamp" affair at the top and let the accordions just sit loose they will usually appear closed and are still doing their job of protecting the fork tubes.

Welcome back, Cindy. Where you been?

An even cheaper route: double up two stock springs. Definitely cure the slipping if the slipping is due to weak spring, but your left hand will pay in stop and go traffic. I had the slip in fourth gear full throttle. Installed Earl's spring and all is well. Earl doesn't make the spring and I don't know the brand he sells.

My Garmin 765T package came with Garmin nüMaps Lifetime™, "North America map updates for the life of your Garmin GPS". However, when I tried to enter the product key (from the enclosed Lifetime Maps card) at http://www.garmin.com/activatenumaps the site told me that the unit was already registered. I have a message pending from the seller requesting that he transfer the registration to me (as some have suggested to try) but so far nothing.