Prairiehammer

I've got a (presumed) Big Bike trunk light on my '90 and I wanted to convert the incandescent bulbs to LED, but I can't figure out how to get the lens off without breaking them. What is your secret to removing and replacing the lenses? Do you have a link and part number for the new lenses?

Wish you luck.

I've never done this, but is it possible that the air line that was on the compressor/valve assembly can be swapped for the blown hose on the shock?

It sounds like it is already lean if the only thing you have is a steel washer.

To clarify: ALL the Ventures have air ride suspension, but just the 1983-1993 Royales have an ON BOARD air compressor and controller. The Standards have air ride, but as Earl says, the suspension has to be aired up manually. His suggestion is to find a Standard being parted out and obtain the air hose from it.

Instead of a POLL, I suggest we start a POOL. Winner gets to add to the VentureRider FUND.

Petcock open?

According to Yamaha ( http://m.yamahamotorsports.com/partsviewer.aspx#/Yamaha/XVZ12TK_-_1983/CARBURETOR/XVZ12TK_%281983_MOTORCYCLE%29/CARBURETOR_%28XVZ12TK_-_1983%29 ) the cap is the same as the 1986+. I would be suspicious of the all metal float valve needle. That isn't the norm. Almost all have had the Viton tip. Your kit included new seats?

According to this supplier, the pickup for the 1990-93 Venture is the same as for a V-Max from 1986(? I don't think that is correct, because Yamaha shows a dual pick-up for 1986),1990-2007. But not the same as the Second Gen. http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-3UF-81670-00-00.html

Huh! I didn't know there was a CD on rebuilding the V-Max carbs. I would like a copy. Anyway you can burn one for me? Or point me to where I can get one?

Thanks, Mike. Sounds like your memory is just fine. Jason's dilemma has me checking for a solution to a problem I have never encountered. Your experience is invaluable. It seems that the BDS35 carbs have a slightly different arrangement than the BDS34 (like on your bike). On the later models perhaps the plug is more a "cup" held in with an O-ring? I don't know, but I am certainly going to keep an eye on this thread and hopefully Jason will include pictures and Model description when he get this sorted out. Jason, based on what Mike has said, can you not just keep driving the seat out toward the plug until everything is pushed out of the carb body? I know you will ruin the seat and the net filter and maybe the plug, but if you are careful not to damage the bore where the seat is, this may be doable.

In addition to the fine points made so far; try tapping with a wrench or other hard metallic object on the banjo union; both the one on the slave and the one on the master cylinder. The intent is to dislodge those clinging air bubbles trapped in the recesses. Also, if you have a Mity Vac, try reverse bleeding; that is, try forcing clean brake fluid from the slave bleed nipple through the slave, up the line and out the master cylinder. The Mity Vac has a pressure pump capability as well as a suction pump. Simply reverse the lines on the Mity Vac and it will pump fluid.

You sure, Mike? Cause, I've been reading on the V-Max and Virago sites that IF, IF you need to replace the seat, that it goes in from the bowl side and the new one gets pressed in, again from the bowl side. But, I've never removed the seat to know for sure. One guy drilled his seat out using incrementally larger bits until he could pry out the remains. I sure don't see how you could get a straight shot at the seat from the bowl side, though. To the OP: what year Venture are we talking about? If it is a 1986 or newer the plug is available from Yamaha ($$$) just as Carl (MiCarl) said. Part number: 41R-14118-01-00. The same setup is used on the VMax and Virago.

Here is my thread about the Lake Superior Circle Tour. At the end of the thread I posted a post trip report including a map of the route we took. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55675 One thing: there is no fuel between Sault Ste. Marie and Wawa.

Ray posted on VentureRider facebook page that Alex (EasternRider) was helping him.

The plug that you are going to have to replace is called a "Welch" plug. Commonly used on all carburetors. Go to an auto supply store or a small engine shop or parts supplier with the diameter of the open hole and start matching up with their stock. Good luck.

I presume you have checked with the members from Nova Scotia? Jay (jaymacdoo) lives in Antigonish. He doesn't ride a First Gen, but I'll bet some friendly assistance could still be administered.

If you are gonna pull the "silver" plug, drill a hole into it and screw a sheet metal screw into the drilled hole and yank it out. As for the "staking", it is sometimes not apparent and maybe it wasn't done on yours at all. "Staking" is usually just a dimple made by a prick punch or similar to deform the carb body enough to prevent the plug from falling out.

It's a bit late now, but most don't bother to replace the float valve seat. However, since you've pushed it down into the carb body, it will have to be replaced or at least pushed out to where it was originally. The seat has an O-ring and a screen at the fuel inlet end. The brass/aluminum cover plug on top is sometimes "staked" in four places with a punch. To get the plug out, use a small (~1/8 or 3/32") drill to drill a SHALLOW hole just deep enough to remove the staking/deformation at each of the four locations, but not all the way through the plug. It will come out easily, and the seat can be removed. You can re-use this plug by staking it with a punch in different locations when you re-install it. Just don't drill all the way through it. Alternately, drill a small hole in the center of the plug and after inserting a sheet metal screw pull on the screw to remove. But you better have a replacement plug or know a machinist to turn you another replacement. Also there is a strainer screen in there. You probably have deformed it by knocking the seat up against the plug. It looks like you have knocked the seat pretty good and have chipped the brass, so it will more than likely need replacement now, too. If you don't use a replacement screen, scrub the old one or soak it in an oxalic acid solution (the screen not the carb body) and clean it up. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69927 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75834

Riding motorcycles or golfing or fishing in a thunderstorm...makes no difference if you stand under a tree. Don't seek shelter under a tree in a thunderstorm.

You might want to adjust your directions...HA! Also, a much nicer ride is to take US52 from I-39 in Mendota. Take US52 to Savannah.

True, that has been called a 1983½, however, the VIN would have either 47R (for a Standard) or 47T (for a Royale) instead of 26H (Standard) or 31M (Royale) in the first part of the VIN. For example: a 1983½ Royale would be 47T00xDAxxxxxx.

For you, Brian: FRZMAN

Les, Why did you relocate the battery? And what model Honda did the COPs come off?

Just needs re-soldered?