Prairiehammer

Doug? Did you read the Word doc I previously posted? It describes the reassembly.

Is this diagram easier to read? Also read over this Word doc: 83 Venture-Rear-Wheel-Bearings-Replacement.docx

Unfortunately, I don't believe you can remove the petcock from the tank while the tank is installed on the bike. While the gunk LOOKS like big pieces of rust, I think it is, as you suspect, dried flakes of dislodged varnish. Fish some of the crud from the tank and experiment with different solvents. Place some of the gunk in a small container and add different solvents to determine which solvent dissolves the stuff and puts it back into a liquid solution.

What the factory toolkit contains for a 1990 Venture:

NO! Don't do that! That would run the risk of loose RTV migrating through the cooling system, possibly clogging the radiator or getting entangled in the water pump impeller. The solution is to shim between the striped cover and the rubber plug. A dime (ten cent piece) has been effective as a shim (at least on the Second Gen, where the leak seems to be more common). You state that there is an OIL leak emanating from behind the striped covers. There should NOT be any OIL. The rubber plug is holding back coolant from within the the cylinder water jacket. The "damper" is just that, a cushion or damper for the striped cover, to preload the cover screw and to prevent rattling and loosening of the striped cover.

Perhaps this the one? Yes, the pilot screws are turned out to richen.

Since the washers still have "spring" and are still "wavey", I would reuse them. As Marcarl says, they are only to control the up and down of the oil lock piece, to bypass oil.

Keep an eye out for this brake switch for the 1986-1987, 41V-83980-01-00. It is a four wire switch, too. It differs from your 1988-1993 brake switch by the addition of a noise filter on the wiring harness of the 1988-1993. Gives you another option when you are seeking a replacement.

Red/blue.

I think that is what the Russian @KISA was trying to tell us with his reply: "Fuel level in the float-operated camera should be checked on the working motorcycle! At the working motor level goes down on 1 mm! "

Pdf of M2005-017. Pdf pf M2005-015. Drive shaft spline lube-All.pdf M2005-015 drive pin lube.pdf

TSB M83-021 and M92-006 both addressed lubing the "clutch hub" (drive pins). M92-006 1stGen_Final.pdf M83-021 M83-022 Rear End Clicking Noise .pdf

The MKI saddlebags and trunk each should have a seal in the groove. It is part number 26H-2847F-00-00, superseded to 54K-2847F-00-00. This seal is also used on the trunk of the MKII Venture. Of course it is no longer available from Yamaha. I have seen a seal offered on eBay once, but never again. Some have inserted the proper sized window screen spline as a satisfactory substitute. You can find screen spline at home centers.

Marcarl's method is valid; consider how the factory (either Mikuni or Yamaha) would do the float adjustment. (The factory is certainly not going to do a wet adjustment for every carb.) This pic shows the casting mark (a circle) on the jet block and the correct location of the float in relation to that casting mark.

Thank you!

Don, pictures for these two threads in the First Gen Tech Talk would be appreciated. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?27225-Pulling-wheel-bearings-Part-1-of-2&highlight=bearing https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?27226-Pulling-Wheel-Bearings-Part-2-of-2&highlight=bearing Thanks, much.

Try making two words of "Oaktree", like this: Oak Tree. https://goo.gl/maps/YwDZJb4smPw

Indeed, I HAVE wondered where my previous cars are. Especially, my first car; a 1966 Ford Fairlane with 390, 3 on the tree, bench seats. I "rodded" it with a "built" 390 (12:1 compression, 300° furation/.500 lift Crane cam, Hooker headers, Holley 780cfm three barrel carb and a Borg-Warner Super T-10 four speed. Installed bucket seats from a Charger and the rear seat from a Dart, new carpeting and dyed all the old tan/beige interior black. Goodyear L60-15 on the rear, Goodyear Polyglas F70 on the front, mounted on American Racing aluminum "mags". Traction bars. Rear air shocks, front Monroe HD adjustable shocks. The pictured Fairlane is not of mine, but very similar. (I didn't own a camera back in those days). I owned a 1971 Mustang Mach1 for several years until I sold it to a local guy. He showed up one night at the tavern I was bartending at with the Mach1; about 12 years after I sold it to him. He let me take it out for a spin. He had repainted it from the dark metallic green to white (to make it look like the 1971 Boss 351). His car (my car) even made it to a Mustang magazine!

Yamaha installed fork gaiters (accordion boots) on the 1990-1993 Venture. The gaiters take the place of the dust seals.

Unless the engine actually fired before the hydro lock stopped the crank, I don't think the starter would generate enough force to bend the rod. Have you had it running before this episode? If you have not heard it run before, it is possible that the knock was there before and the hydro lock was just an unfortunate, but harmless episode. The excess gasoline may have diluted the motor oil sufficiently to cause the rod knock. Rod or crank bearings are not known to wear much on these engines (they are plain bearings, just like your car) UNLESS there is a LOT of mileage. There are other (less serious) things that can generate an ominous sounding "knock", but are not caused by bad crank or rod bearings. Believe it or not, I had a bottom end knock on a very low mileage 1990 19,000 miles), that went away after a proper carburetor synchronization.

The pictured reservoir obviously will function as a reservoir for the rear master cylinder, but I would be concerned about the close proximity to the very hot exhaust manifold.