bongobobny

Ummmm, going to humbly disagree with you on this one Camos, resistance readings take maybe about 30 seconds tops (OK maybe a minute and a half if you drop the probe or something) to do and if the resistance readings are bad then you already will know the stator is bad without even having to start the bike...

Yup!! +1 on the toothbrush thing, they work GREAT!!!

OK on the second generation Venture that white connector he is referring to is under the seat behind the fake battery covers just about in the middle, and is a slight pain to get to as you need to remove the radiator overflow bottle (surge tank) and possibly the fuel pump sub assembly, but that connector is sometimes where the problem lies with corrosion or even melting. Sooo, to make life easier for you, start with the connector for the Regulator/rectifier which is located behind the front part of the lower fairing on the right side, and disconnect it. There are five pins on that connector, three the same color that come from the stator all the same color, and two that go to the battery which are red, and black. For the 3 stator wires, first take an ohmmeter and check each pin to ground. You should have infinity ohms. If you find a low resistance to ground your stator has one or more windings shorted to ground. OK next thing is, in your mind label the three wires as 1, 2, and 3 or A, B, and C. Now you are going to read the resistance between all three combinations of wires, 1 to 2, 1 to 3, and 2 to 3, or if you used letters, a to b, a to c, and b to c. These 3 resistance readings should be roughly the same readings, say within 2% of each other. If not, one of your 3 stator windings is most likely partially shorted, a common failure. OK if the readings seem to be OK now is the time to dynamically test these 3 windings for proper AC voltage out. Start the bike and at idle you should see a somewhat low AC voltage of around 20 volts AC (not DC) give or take for each combination of wires described in the previous paragraph. These 3 voltages should be close just like the resistance readings were. AS you rev up the engine the voltage should get higher with more RPM's to say 100 volts or more at higher RPM's. The higher the RPM's the higher the AC voltage, and all 3 windings should be approximately equal. OK if all your AC voltage readings are OK, the likely culprit is your R/R, a common failure point for the 2nd gens! If your AC voltages are OK shut the bike off, reconnect the connector (look for any corrosion or melting of the connector), and restart your bike. With your meter on DC volts, measure across the battery. At idle you should see around 13.0 volts, maybe a little less, and as you rev the bike up, the DC voltage should rise to closer to 14 volts or so. If the voltage does not go up, and in some cases goes down instead, your R/R is defective and needs changing. Now, say your readings for resistance or voltage was not good. Well, NOW would be the time to locate that 3 wire connector that comes from the stator and goes into the wiring harness!! Disconnect the connector and repeat the tests I described for the stator wires on the R/R connector. You want the connector that leads towards the stator, not the connector that leads to the main harness. Chances are likely you should see the same results that you did at the R/R, meaning it's time for a new stator. If the tests were good at the connector but not at the R/R chances are you have an issue with the connector. Unlike Gold Wings, the stator is replaced while the engine is still in the bike... Hope this helps you out! Although the stator, and the R/R is different from 1st gen Ventures and 2nd Gen Ventures, they still work the same and are tested the same!

Yup!! depending on IC settings, as long as the helmet is plugged in, the mic is active, and WILL amplify through the audio system every noise present...

OK, with the wheel cylinders what happens a lot is when the brake pads are changed people tend to neglect cleaning the pistons when changing pads. A lot of the brake pad dust accumulates on the piston and gets trapped within the seals as well!! This is really what causes the pistons to seize up, crud trapped on the piston and in the seals!! Every time you change the pads you should spray brake cleaner all over the pistons to wash away brake dust!!! Do this BEFORE you force the pistons in to make room for the new pads...

YUP!!!!! Once again, with feeling, your charging system has taken a dump!!!!!

Yup, as pointed out in several sources, the 2 1/8 turns is a ROUGH adjustment!!! To fine tune you have to analyze the exhaust gas emissions and/or the color of the explosion! No two carbs are EXACTLY identical...

Ehhh, so what?!!? The bottom line, Voyager kits are a lot cheaper than conversion kits, but as pointed out by the post have limitations/cons...

Just got done setting all the clocks in the house!! Not done yet, wrist watches and car clocks...

OK by the last couple of posts I ain't touching this with a ten foot pole... That being said I personally oppose socialized medicine!

Old Goat, sometimes life is not fair, there are no guarantees in life!! That being said I certainly understand and feel the same way! Wish there was something I could do...

No problem John!! We are ordering 4 extra so you are already covered!! Sure missed you last weekend!

If you empty your master cylinder and look on the bottom, you will find a little pin hole. This is a pressure relief orifice. Dollars to donuts that little orifice is clogged! When is the last time you flushed the entire brake system out?? This is something that should be done every couple of years or so...

OK I sort of let this fall on the back burner. We will be ordering these most likely this week and I will PM/contact all interested. We will be ordering a handful extra so if there is anybody else interested it's not to late...

Hmmm, Beatles "Why Don't We Do It In The Road" went through my brain...

Yah!! Gonna be nice this weekend, and already missed a couple of PGR missions because I don't trust the bike. Yea Yea, I know, it's only an hour or two to disassemble and clean the contacts, just don't have the time, too much last minute fall clean up things to do.. There is a brand new ignition switch assy in the mail coming at me, but I will have to get it re-keyed.

Just donated, come on fellow VR, help out!!!

Yup! Either a CO Sniffer or a colortune plug...

Gotta love this commercial...

Yup!! Nothing wrong with your system, all to blame on the power company. It's a thing called Corona Discharge and yes it is very annoying...

Yup, very good likelihood that your charging system has taken a dump! As mentioned in the above thread, if you have any electrical aptitude at all you can check out the Stator and the R/R for proper operation. If you are afraid of electricity, maybe there is a member close to you that can help...

...or dirty contacts on the start switch.

I once bought a trunk off of Ebay that someone made two metal pieces the size of the area behind the backrest and sandwiched the plastic between them, I thought it really made for a permanent repair. That is one area of the trunk that seems prone to breakage...

Don't forget Meetin' Saturday!! You too Robin...

Hmmmmmm, how much Bill??