bongobobny

Well Stan, a couple of possibilities. You could try the resistor mod at the CMU end of the White/red wire, eliminating possibility of there being an open on that line. Second, remove the CMU and resolder the edge connector as there may be a bad (open) solder connection there. Third, maybe the PO tied the W/R wire directly to 12 volts and blew out the monitor input for that...

Chances are it's the original shield and if it is then it's 15 years old! Tome to replace IMHO. Two very good replacement shield manufacturers are Clearview, and F4 Customs (my personal favorite). Both offer a variety of sizes and options, and you can save yourself a little money purchasing one of their "Blems" which have very minor imperfections that you most likely won't even notice unless pointed out to you. Depending on just what you like or don't like in a shield there is also a "convertible" shield made by Baggershield that is a two piece affair that converts from a short shield to a taller shield. There seems to be mixed reviews on them here, most like them, some do not, after purchasing. Stock shields are overpriced for the quality, or lack thereof, IMHO. Look in the "Vendors" forum for discounts for Venturerider members for Clearview, F4, and Baggershield...

Woo hoo!!!!!

yup!!! In order to get good bass, you have to move a large volume of air, and to do that you need a larger surface area of the speakers. Those little 4" speakers just don't cut it!! Better than stock 4" speakers DO give you improved mid range and high range response...

I concur with Jeff, it depends on what it is and what the + side is hooked up to. Generally if your add on device has both it's + and - both hooked together on the + side, absolutely nothing would happen and the device would not do anything; it would not have a complete path for electricity to flow. You could disconnect all your add on's and see if it's fixed. Otherwise do what I suggested with the Audio fuse and the Accessory fuses. When you have the fuses out, there should be no voltage at all on either terminal of the fuse holder with key off, and only on one side of each fuse position, with fuses removed, with key on...

Well, I DID say not necessarily, inferring it may or may not be bad...

Ya know Heather, I like your upgrade enough that I might consider upgrading my Squidley upgrade with yours...

I am assuming you are seeing these voltages with the radio operational?? If so then that is normal. Let's work on the above post first...

OK there should NOT be 12 volts on the Brown and White wire with the key off!!! Soooo, we need to determine if the voltage is coming from the Main module, or maybe feeding back from something on either the front acc jack (The cigarette lighter) or the rear aux plug under the driver seat. Sooo, pull the "audio" fuse on fuse block 1, a 10 A fuse. That's the fuse box that's in the front lower fairing, and by the looks of the rather poor picture in the owner's manual it sets perpendicular to the rest of the fuses, and from what I remember is in it's own separate holder from what I remember from about 5 years ago... Anyway, with the audio fuse removed check again and see if the 12 volts disappeared from that wire or is it still there with the key off. This is now starting to make sense IF 12 volts disappears from the Brown/White wire. If this is the case we start looking at the accessory plugs and see if there is 12 volts appearing on them WITH the audio fuse pulled and the key off! If there is, then pull both Aux fuses, on the same fuse box 1, and see if there is 12 volts on one side of the fuse holders with the key off. If so, then something has gone amiss with the ignition switch in a way I've never heard of before... If there is still 12 volts on the Brown/White wire with the audio fuse pulled then it is probably coming from the Master Control Unit, swapping it out will confirm this. Now we're getting somewhere!!!

Not necessarily. I would try closer to 45 to 60 psi. 35 psi is too little IMHO...

Yup!! Another NOTTS sufferer here...

A 0.2 volt drop from the rectifier to the battery is most likely attributed to the resistance of the wires from point A to point B. This drop is called, in electrical terms, an IR drop. It's Ohm's law, the voltage (E) drop across a resistor (in this case a length of wire which does have a small amount of resistance) is equal to the Resistance (ohms) multiplied by the current (I), or E = I x R. I still think you have a defective R/R...

Strongly doubt it could be done Thomas, First Gen's are Fixed fairings, 2nd Gen's are fork mounted fairings...

Yah Puc, considered the possibility myself but all the rear controller does is adjust the headphone volume for the rear passenger, and has a PTT switch for CB...

Hmmmmm, the plot thickens!!! The radio should be able to be powered up with key in accessory position! Now with disconnecting the battery or connector it may turn off the audio/radio but it should turn on normally with key on accessory. This is valuable information for analyzing the problem... Now, without hitting the starter button, just on the accessory position, will the radio turn on and off normally?? This is also good info for figuring out what's going on. Also, with just the accessory position, does the backlight come on and go off with turning the unit on and off?? Consult your owner manual for instructions on turning the unit on and off... OK another thing to try while doing that check, does the CB turn on and off as well?? PS sorry I missed your call, was getting the cage inspected and oil changed, and Becky was out walking with her friend...

Yup Scott, the fairing has turn signal, and vent and vent piece as well...

Ummm, I'm thinking no because when Jay unplugs and replugs the connector on the main harness the problem goes away until he turns on the key which "resets" the backlight to on again. The accessory contacts usually are not the issue, it's the main contacts that supply electricity to the rest of the bike for starting and running. One of the main symptoms of when the ignition switch fails is the bike is completely dead EXCEPT for the radio which still has power and works properly...

Well, that would be helpful,I just suggested unplugging the controller first so that it would be easy to get to the pins on the connector that supplies the connector to the control box. If you can get to the pins without disconnecting the connector then great, I just need to know what wire colors the voltage appears. No, the Master box is the box above the cassette deck, which is like the main brains and/or guts to the complete radio/audio system. The controller is really just a box with switches in it, and maybe a keyboard matrix IC, it is a slave unit... Yes, that is actually good information to know that the 12 volts is somehow coming from the memory back up supply, and makes sense as that voltage is present at all times as long as there is a battery in the bike! Now to figure out how that voltage is getting onto the backlight line, which is why I need too know what wire is for the backlight. When you find the voltage, do the "reset" thing with the white connector and confirm the voltage goes away until you key on again! Yes Pucster, it is quite possible something went amiss around the same time as the stator bit the big one, and they are most likely unrelated, just a coincidence! I am sort of thinking that it was not any result of Jay's connector servicing but hey, you never know. If he would have induced some kind of a short I kind of doubt that when he disconnects and reconnects that main white connector that the light would go out and stay out until key on. As soon as I know what wire supplies the voltage to the handlebar slave unit backlight then I can study the schematic alittle more and try to isolate where the issue is coming from, but more and more I am thinking something amiss in the main unit... Although I doubt it, maybe there is something in the handlebar unit causing the issue but unfortunately we won't know until we start swapping out components to isolate the failure source...

What I am starting to suspect is an issue within the radio master box. Now, when you disconnect the big white connector what you are doing is removing ALL connections to that master box. This in essence resets all the circuitry inside that box. You should see the same results by disconnecting the battery. OK with key on it energises the box and if the system is on turns on the backlight. Now normally when you turn off the key it extinguishes the backlight, but the master box still has the live 12 volts for memory backup, and I am suspecting some kind of issue in the box that is keeping the 12 volts applied to the backlight. After you give me the results of my pre-suggested tests I will have a better idea what's going on. Unfortunately I do not have schematics for the actual radio/intercom system available, just the Yamaha wiring diagram from the service manual. Anyway, if my suspicions are correct, it's a good thing you have Jeanie's trike available to swap out the master box to confirm this if it comes to that. If it is indeed the master box, when you put it in Jeanie's trike the symptom should appear there, and her unit (Thought I was going to say "box" didn't you?!!?) should make your bike work properly again...

I am assuming the white connector is the "D" connector shown on the wiring diagram. The stuff with the ignition and start switch is a clue, yes I need to know what wire the 12 volts is on with your symptom. Make sure you have the issue active when you get to the controller harness...

WOW!! Strange stuff!!!!!

You may or may not have an issue with the throttle cables causing the RPM's to increase only with the handlebars at full turn in one direction only. When installing, give the throttle cables a good yank first to give them more slack. There has been one or two cases where they had to be relocated but usually the yank fixes things...

Yup! Pucster is correct, Dielectric grease is an INSULATOR, not a conductor!! You do not apply it to the metal conductors, you apply it to the plastic outer surfaces to keep moisture (and air) out of the connector...

OK after that, the next step will be to follow the cable from the controller into the fairing and disconnecting the connector. Then with a voltmeter to ground find out which pin on the connector that the connector from the controller plugs into has the 12 volts on it and what color wire it is. According to the wiring diagram here on site the colors are Black (ground), Green/Yellow, White/Yellow, Pink/Black, and Blue/Green. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf

OK I'm awake! Well, let's try the "odometer" fuse on fuse block 2 first. See your owner's manual for location of the fuse block and which fuse it is. First we will discover the source of the voltage causing it to light up and work from there...