bongobobny

That's somewhat debatable, Larry. I can split my fairing in 5 to 10 minutes, even with the running lights. How long did you fumble and curse doing it the other way? Yes, it can be done, and sometimes it even works fairly easy but, doing it your way, can you do other things like servicing your audio system cables, etc??? Very glad you got things fixed and hope you did not permanently damage your battery...

Here are the winning Powerball numbers... # &( $% !@ & with the supplimental number of #* Your problem is to figure out what date these numbers are valid for! All of the above advice is very important! You need to isolate which carb is overflowing, and YES, VERY important to get all of that excess gas out of the cylinder! Hydrolock can and will bend rods... Pull all 4 plugs and crank it over and watch which cylinder or cylinders spray a lot of gas out of...

Glad you mentioned that Du-Rron! Also very important, try to find new caps for your vacuum ports as they deteriorate, and they tear easily...

Question, what time of day were you taking them? The best time is at bedtime...

One more thing to add, the Regulator/Rectifiers seem to go south a lot more than the 1st Generation ones did. Having had both, the 1st Gen handles much better at low speeds than the 2nd Gen, and the 1st Gen is a tad peppier than the 2nd, but the 2nd Gen is a lot more comfortable! Would I recommend buying one, especially as a touring bike? In a heartbeat! Yet another good product from Mother Yammy that you'll get a good 200,000 miles out of!

Uhhh, Jack, the 2nd gen is electronic, no cable, no moving parts...

Just one thing, double check your meter by reading your battery voltage on your car or truck, whatever you have. The reason being sometimes voltmeters can give erroneous readings, especially if their internal battery is weak...

Me too, D and E...

Hey, how did you know I like my dinners? Was it my round belly?? Thanks for the kind words guys! John, I'm glad I was able to help out! It can be hard to troubleshoot over the phone when I'm not there seeing just exactly what is going on but hopefully what you found is the final answer! Great to hear from you as well!!

Yup, that was my first thought as well, the old dry speedometer cable whine... Sometimes it is the speedometer itself, just prior to the odometer gears going south.

Good job Puc!!!

Hey, Ed, it is good to hear from you! Also very timely as just the other day Condor posted a picture of the Ventures immediately after the fire and we were wondering how you were making out! Congratulations on the new chapter in your life and great to hear you have found companionship as well!! Maybe next August you could venture up here for the Western New York Northeast Regional Rally!!

Yup! Although it may be one of the best TOURING bikes ever made, it is WAAAAAAY too big of a bike to learn how to ride on!! Find yourself a nice small to mid-sized lighter bike to get your feet wet on, and then after you have been riding for a while then try out a "Big Boy's" bike... And, as was mentioned, if you can find a motorcycle training program in your area it is a very worthwhile investment! Welcome to the biking community and we hope you find it a very enjoyable lifetime hobby!!!

P.S. Thanks to the Pucster for pointing me to this thread, I normally only read the watering hole and the Technical forums.

Hi, Joe! If you ever decide to "Venture" westward into New York's finger lakes wine country let us know and we will meet up with you! I notice you drink your whiskey straight as do I. I also notice you are a ham radio operator, I was too back in the 60's (WB2GBO) before going into the Army but never got back into it after that...

This is ass u me'ing that the location is the same for a First Generation Venture and a Second Generation Royal Star Venture. They probably are but you never know...

I am not positive on this, so you will have to look at the cable ends, but perhaps the audio output for your Garmin is monophonic (1 audio channel) and the Yamaha IS (as in yes, it is) stereo (2 channel). If you are plugging a mono cable into a stereo jack, it will put a ground where there is not supposed to be one. Also, if you are plugging in a stereo cable into a mono jack (the output of the Garmin if it's output is mono) that too might put a ground where it isn't supposed to! Try unplugging the cable that is connected into the Garmin and see if the noise goes away. Sometimes, even just the routing of an audio cable can cause ignition noise to get in even if the cabling is correct. One would think that if there was a bad cable, the noise would be there all the time...

Yes, that 5 wire box is called an R/R or Regulator/Rectifier. The Stator produces an AC voltage that first has to be changed into DC, or is "Rectified!" The second part is to Regulate or make its output at a constant voltage. When the voltage level that is trying to be rammed into the battery is too high, the regulator shunts the excess power to ground...

​Both...

They're trying to make it look like a Beemer IMHO...

Yes, the bleeder is under a rubber cover on top of where the middle cover goes about in the middle of the engine below the cylinder walls on the left side. The oil drain plug is under the bike on the oil pan in the center. The oil fill cover is on the right side of the bike at the rear of the engine and has a raised flat piece used to unscrew the plug. It's about 1" or so in diameter. If you wish, I can take pictures for you...

To just bleed the clutch system you do not have to remove the middle cover. There is a rubber boot on the top that can be removed to gain access to the slave cylinder bleeder screw. You DO have to remove the middle cover to replace the slave cylinder, though. On both handlebar master cylinder reservoirs, there is a tiny hole at the bottom that can and will get clogged up with goop. This hole needs to be open as it is a pressure relief hole. If the bike has been setting for an extended period of time you may discover that the old fluid has crystallized and you may need to disassemble pretty much everything, calipers, master cylinders, etc to get all of the crud out, just flushing the system may or may not get all the stuff out...

All of the spin on filter conversion kits I've seen put the filter in the same orientation as the stock filter. The Rivco is the most common. I've never seen a 90 degree kit like that, and I don't like it, it puts the filter too low to the ground...

I know I will get disagreeing opinions here, but the best way to bleed the clutch is by using a vacuum pump, which usually costs around $20 - $40, and a speed bleeder which will run you around $10. Just make sure you have connected the vacuum pump to suck and not blow and use a little Teflon tape on the speed bleeder threads. It is important to make sure the reservoir never runs out of fluid while doing this. Also, if you look into the reservoir you will see a tiny pinhole in the bottom. Make sure that hole is not plugged up...

OK, first, WHY you stripped out the screw!! These are METRIC bikes and even the screws, especially the Phillips type are metric! Every time you use an SAE screwdriver on a JIS screw you are probably going to strip out the head!!! You need to invest in a set of JIS (Japan Industrial Standard) screwdrivers!! The main difference is the angle of the slots. So, for now, you need to drill or grind off the head of the screw and then remove the stud with vice grips. OK, after carefully re-reading your post, I am confused as to which screw you stripped. I ass u me'd you are referring to the master cylinder cover and not one of the slave mounting screws... If you are referring to the master cylinder cover, plan on buying two of them as you probably buggered up the other head.