bongobobny

Yup! One of the SEVERAL maximum RPM factors is the MASS of the piston, not just the size... My vote is E. None of the above...

​why?!!?

Great news, Wingzz! Yes, Gary is a class act person and I am very proud to call him my friend! Maybe my next venture into the SE Mi area we can meet up! My sister lives in West Bloomfield a couple of miles from Ragtop69GS so I try to make it into the area once in a while...

Yup, sounds like the dreaded 2nd gen ignition switch syndrome to me too!!

If your clutch checks out, pull your rear end differential out and see if the teeth on the output drive have stripped out. Seems to me someone had this problem about a year or so ago... With your bike on the center stand and with a little assistance, pull back the rubber boot or pop off the inspection plug on the swing arm and try to see if anything is turning with the driveshaft, that might give you a clue as to where the problem lies!

Replace, do not rebuild the slave cylinder. They are not that expensive compared to the labor involved with rebuilding to include honing the cylinder. Many of us have tried rebuilding only to find out the rebuild only lasts a few months and the leaking returns...

OK, I'm going to lay a little bit of technical knowledge on you. First, the proportioning valve is pretty much a spring loaded valve. Here's what happens and why. When you press the rear brake, a pressure is built up. This pressure and fluid volume are immediately applied to the rear caliper. Actually, the pressure is a result of first the fluid reaching the rear caliper, and when it moves and bottoms out the pressure is built up. As this pressure increases, as soon as it reaches the spring rate pressure it opens the pathway to the front brake and allows fluid to be sent to the front caliper. The reason for this is so that the front does not dive when you hit the rear! The rear brake is applied prior to the front brake being activated! It's a safety feature. Now the metering valve is just a fixed orifice! Its function in life is to regulate or limit the volume of fluid per second so that the front brake does not feel a bunch of pressure and volume instantaneously. Yet another safety feature to ensure smooth even braking on the dual braking system. To answer Condor's question, no, the front brake is not really metered as it is independent of the rear and your finger squeeze, which is a lot more sensitive than a foot stomp, is used to regulate the force of braking...

Yes, and unfortunately Becky and I were vacationing in Mexico that week for our Aniversary...

See my response in Carl's thread...

Darn! I have been super busy and haven't been on the site for a couple of days and missed this! Hope you had a VERY HAPPY BIRTHDAY my good friend!! I turned 70 in August...

I think one time I made it a little over 40 miles and didn't run dry, but I was really glad to finally make it to a gas station...

There's a bunch of skilled members in your area, and I'm sure someone will respond soon. You may have better results, though, if you post this in the Watering Hole as well... There is Ragtop69GS in West Bloomfield and Carbon_One in Wayne to mention a couple but there are others as well...

Hey, pickin' on the Pucster is a normal pastime around here...

I'm interested, my friend!! I'm sure either Carl or Wayne or someone can transport or store it. You do have both sides, right?? PM me as to what you want for them...

Yup, lotsa possibilities!! Front tire condition would be the first thing to look at followed by proper torque on the steering head bearings. Bad wheel bearings could be a possibility as well as a warped rotor! One thing that would be a good check, but kinda on the way out there thing, is check for equal air pressure on both forks! If one fork has 7 psi and the other zero psi it could intermittently cause an oscillation! Yes, swing arm bearings and bushings can also cause issues. Wish we had a stock answer for you but we don't...

For those fairing edge protectors, I just fabricated some up using Plastic chrome in various pieces. I think there is a picture in my gallery here but I'm not sure. I'm not home, we are on vacation in Mazatlan, Mexico this week...

Get the Valkrye, GREAT bike, especially the touring one...

Interesting non-stock rear tire...

You can see from the one picture where the fairing is scratched up near the mirror from being dropped it used to be a blonde...

I have seen those saddlebag rails, but they are rare as hen's teeth IMHO! I have also seen engine guard side rails, equally as rare! There sure is a lot of aftermarket on it, but not worth the asking price...

Well, this may not be the answer that you are looking for, but here are my observations! For the cover, the head was probably stripped out from someone using an SAE screwdriver on a JIS (Japan Industrial Standard) screw. The angle of the slots is different and that is why an SAE screwdriver strips them out. If you are going to work on a metric bike, be sure to use metric tools on herm to include the screwdrivers! As far as the slave cylinder bolts go, first make sure you are using a good set of metric Allen keys, and not SAE! Yes, they are tight, and it sure does seem like you are going to either strip the head out or snap the bolt! You may want to try some sort of impact driver, either electric, pneumatic, or mechanical "hit them with a hammer" type! Speaking of hammers, you might want to consider giving the Allen bit a wack to make sure it is secure! Try using 1/2 inch drive tools as well... Good luck with your project, and while you are replacing the slave, there is also a rubber gasket on the end of the pushrod that you may want to consider replacing while you have the slave off!

The engine side covers attach different on the '83, but some were converted. The covers themselves are the same. Yes, due to the different vacuum porting, the TCI's for the '83 has a vacuum advance that is 180 degrees out of phase with the other years. The instrument cluster is different for the '83. There are a couple of very minor differences in the wiring harness and wiring of the '83.

Everything in moderation! Try to limit red meat to only once or maybe occasionally twice a week! Fish and fowl are good...

Hmm, vacuum leak?? Check the caps on the sync ports as they can and will crack. When was the last time you sync'ed the carbs?? How about new spark plugs??

Actually, pulling the plugs is a breeze WITH the proper tools! You need a thin wall deep metric socket (I forgot the size,17mm or 19mm, 18mm??) and a universal joint and a short extension. You will also need to pull those front and rear plastic heat shields. They come out with minimal finagling... On the 2nd Gens, you have to pull the gas tank and remove the dogbones to get to the plugs...