bongobobny

Yah! What Heather says! Check for 12 volts on the Red/White line, and making sure THE BIKE IS IN NEUTRAL, jumper a ground to the blue line connector, and if the starter turns over, your solenoid is good, and the problem is most likely the starting circuit cutoff relay/fuel pump relay module...

Not the same guy I bought mine from but I'm sure they are just as good! Of course I replaced mine on '07... Bottom line, do a search on Ebay and pick a set. The ones David posted is a good price! Make sure you inspect your coils for the dreaded green stuff inside the output connectors before inserting the wires. Make sure you use the rubber o rings on the wires along with the screw in cap pieces, it keeps the wires from vibrating loose...

Those chrome side cover crash bars are very rare! Let me know if you decide you don't want them...

WOW!! 50/50 so far...

First thing, WELCOME!! As far as rebuilding the slave cylinder, the best thing to do is replace, not rebuild. Although you can rebuild, many many of us have found out that the rebuild sometimes does not last long, or does not work out as good as it should, all depending on the condition of the cylinder, and just how much you have to hone the cylinder walls. A new replacement slave is only around $50, give or take. A rebuilt slave is a rebuilt slave, not as good as new, and the next thing you know, it needs replacing again!! Not being where you are, it's kind of hard to guess what is wrong with the rebuild. Although the Barnett setup is a good one, there is an easier and less expensive fix that many times does not require a complete teardown of the clutch. It is a replacement heavy duty "disc" spring that looks like the stock one and is made by PCW racing. Of course what you did is going to give you a nice strong long lasting setup! Now, did you replace the clutch plate with the heavy duty version made by Yamaha?? If you did, then you did not use the wire that was with the stock one? If you look it the tech read only section, there is a great step by step illustrated set of instructions on how to rebuild the clutch... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?10518-Clutch-Upgrade Hopefully this will get you started. If the hydraulic clutch worked fine before you did the clutch, I would suspect it still should be good, or as good as one with 50K on it can be. I suppose you possibly could have blown the internal seals but part of me doubts it. It's just a simple piston arrangement, nothing special about it...

Yah!! If you jumper the starter solenoid and the bike starts and runs, the solenoid is the problem! The starting circuit cut off relay is a circuit that disables the spark trigger for the ignition preventing the bike from being started under certain conditions. On the 2nd gen it is a dual module, I forgot what the other function of the "box" is, but it is about the size of a large flasher relay, and is mounted near the fuel pump if I remember correctly. Had an issue with that unit about 3 or 4 years ago, got it replaced under warranty... So, based on what you posted in post 10, you jumper across the starter solenoid and it starts and runs?? Or, does it just turn over but not run??? What are you jumpering, the two big wires, or the small wire to the big wire??

In a word, NO!!! The '83 was a peculiar TCI in regards to the ignition advance and how it works. The advance works 180 degrees out of phase with the '84 on up. '84 on up to either '89 or '90 will work. I forgot which year they switched from 2 pickup coil to 1 pickup coil, I think it was '90 but I'm not sure. It is most likely in your best interests to invest in new plug wires! There is a good possibility that yours are still the original ones, and a new set of made up wires designed to fit the bike sells for under $50 usually. Also, plugs should be a yearly replacement depending on miles driven, the Venture does have a tendency to eat plugs!! Use NGK plugs...

Not sure on this, but you may end up with more wind and debris in your face. I had one break off a couple of years ago and I sort of remember that being the case...

Fear of the unknown! We all go through it until we do it for the first time! Piece 'O cake, eh?!!?

Yah!! Don't spend $500 on a new one when a used one will work equally well!! The anti dive solenoid either works or it doesn't, there is really no in-between state for them...

Yup! Make sure they are HH's...

Yah!! Even looks like it's got diamond cut fins on it to me! Can't wait to see it in person!

Prayers up Ed!!! Try to remain focused and keep looking up!

Well, it certainly isn't entirely unheard of for a master cylinder to go bad, it's just the USUAL suspect is the slave! Make sure you use new crush washers on the banjo bolt!

...the pot calls the kettle black! Sorry KIC, couldn't resist!! My usual source for brake pads, preferably EBC's, is Ebay. Glad David came up with a suggestion, even if you don't see eye to eye with that particular dealer.

Hi Mark! Good to hear from you as is hearing from all my brothers and sisters on Venturerider! Glad all is well, enjoyed meeting up with you in person on my retirement road trip!

Never google on your laptop while driving...

Yes Bob,I like my Hannigan IRS set-up better than Motortrike's IRS set up! Probably because it belongs to me so I'm just a tad partial to it! Maybe it's the wider stance...

Ummmm, just because a battery is reading full voltage does NOT mean it's good!! You need to take it to Auto Zone, etc. for a free LOAD test to determine it's real strength...

At the same place you buy your best cheapest oil from...

Hmmmmm, try listening to Country Western music backwards. The truck will start, the dog will come home, etc...

Yah! Motortrike makes a decent conversion kit!! I still like my Hannigan IRS though...

Aliens...

Yup!! Sure looks like it was neglected!! You may want to consider flushing the hydraulics on his bike as well!!

I'm thinking you will have a great relationship with your new Beemer!!