bongobobny

Ummmm, no, you shouldn't need the engine running, it's just a hydraulic master and slave cylinder very similar to the brakes. I don't think having the cover off will make any difference, but never tried operating the clutch with the cover off myself...

Yah! George is spot on! Absolutely do NOT use any oil with friction inhibitors in it!! Myself I use non synthetic diesel oil, usually Rotella...

If you are trying to say it leans waaay too far over, check the bolt that the kickstand pivots on and the holes it goes through. Those bolts have been known to bend/break and the holes get out of round...

Happy motoring!!!

Me likey!!

If you are pulling a good spark tested with one of those fancy adjustable gap tools, forgot what the factory spec is but I think it equates to a little over 0.10", then the TCI is most likely good. Maybe the plugs are fouled, new plugs (Use NGK's) are cheap enough, and our bikes EAT plugs very easily. Other than that, as David mentioned then some gunk done plugged up a carb again. With the air box off observe the dance of the pistons on the carb, they should all pretty much move in unison. You may have a sticky one, or a ruptured diaphragm, those pinholes can be hard to spot. Just a note, the bike runs pretty crappy with the airbox off but should run somewhat smoothly on all 4...

Yah! I remember a story from Marcarl where he struggled with it for 2 days and suddenly it just broke loose and sort of fell off...

Ummmm, myself I would be concerned about foreign matter plugging up the petcock...

Hmmm, as far as the steel spacers, it depends on just how much you scorched and/or glazed them. You are right, they are cheap enough to buy new, or you can flat lap each side on a piece of sandpaper to restore them (use around 320 grit) but that takes a loooong time and is a lot of work! If you bought the HD wider clutch plate in the kit then no, you no longer use the wire... Ask Earl which clutch plate he sold you.

Or buy the Progressive and spare the HD royalty charge...

Ehhh, not real bad, it takes about 15 minutes give or take to get to it, but yes, sort of a mild pain in the butt...

Prime time for chat is from around 8 Eastern (your) time until about 11. If I show up tonite it won't be until 9...

If you hear shooting, whipping, or other strange noises in chat just ignore it or turn your sound off!! We really are friendly folk there, honest!! For you slow typers out there, we once tried an experiment using a smart phone with chat using the microphone feature. It worked, no typing necessary! I think it was Ragtop69GS that did it, can't remember for sure...

I can bring my buffer if you want. Just how much cleaning before it gets waxed?? I may just take you up on your offer Don and show up a day early to get the job done before the main event... Notice I said maybe!

There is an alternative quicker, easier, and cheaper solution as well! PCW racing makes a heavy duty pressure plate that does the job. You can buy one from Earl, Skydoc_17 as he sells a kit with a new cover gasket. Not that what Bert suggests is wrong, his suggestion is the best way to fix it! Doing the PCW spring also works though. Now, you did mention that you like the feel of the stock clutch, so consider this. The complete Barnett setup makes for a stronger feeling clutch with less travel of the clutch handle to engage, and it comes on strong and hard! I am assuming you still have the original clutch in the bike. How many miles on it?? Now the issue you had when you were towing sounds like the plates got heated up resulting in the slippage you noticed. Once it had a chance to cool down it returned to normal. You may have scorched the discs and steel plates a little. Didn't kill them, but reduced their effectiveness I'm sure! When I first triked my '09 within a year I pretty much killed my clutch due to the increased weight, towing a trailer, and slipping the clutch a little bit too much learning to drive the trike! I replaced my clutch plate with Yamaha's heavy duty full size clutch, and replaced the friction discs and steel plates with new ones (The old ones turned a pretty shade of bluish purple) and used the PCW spring. That was several years ago and the clutch still feels and acts fine regardless of towing, and hours blasting down the superslab at 80+ MPH! However, if my clutch goes out again, I will upgrade to the Barnett setup...

Yup!! What Don said! There was a thread just recently about this!

Yah Bob, it's in the center between the fake battery cover where the fuel pump and fuel filter are located. You have to take both phony covers off, and then remove that plastic piece that goes between the covers. You have to unclip the spark plug wires from the clips on that cover, and it takes a bit of wiggling and cursing to get it to finally come out! Remove the seat, and the radiator overflow tank, and unbolt the bracket that holds the fuel pump, etc. First and formost, DO THE TEST Heather and I suggested before you tear into the bike any more than you have to!!! Now, it is interesting indeed that you have the indicator light issues, with my melted case it induced a ground which triggered my oil and temp light, but I don't remember the fuel gauge going out, but then again I didn't really look either! I just remember staring at the wiring schematic for hours before I thought to look at the Starting Circuit Cut Off Relay assembly for a possible pinched wire, etc. and that's when I found the assembly off of it's mount and laying half melted on the engine! A definite AHHH, that's the problem moment!!!

You are best served buying Yamaha fork seals, a lot of the aftermarket ones end up leaking! That being said, living in Canada a lot of the parts dealers in the US either won't ship to Canada, or want an arm and a leg for shipping!! Hate to suggest it, but you may be best served buying from your local Yamaha dealer! You can try some of the good sources such as Parts Shark, etc. and see what kind of deal you can get. Member Skydoc_17 also sells Yamaha parts but I'm sure with Earl being a small 3rd party dealer he would have to charge an arm and a leg for shipping, as it COSTS an arm and a leg to ship to Canada from the States! Your weak Canadian dollar isn't helping you out at present either...

Hmmm, good question! David should know for sure if he is using that set! The set I bought was ignition suppressing type. My educated guess would be yes on AM but who in their right mind listens to AM radio?? I haven't since the early 60's!! Of course I also don't listen to FM any more (remember the song "FM? ...no static at all, FM...) I pretty much only listen to Satellite or MP3. As David said you may hear some in the intercom, not sure about the CB but I'm thinking the squelch should do it's thing there. On the later model 1st gen's the radio had a noise filter which was a plug in device that had filter capacitors in them, but considering their age I doubt if any of those capacitors are any good,their electrolyte has probably long since dried out. If you do have unacceptable noise, you could always install a noise suppression capacitor across the battery and/or the radio power line...

Thanks for reminding me to buy a Dyna 3000. More bucks...

Yah!! My spam folder gets probably 25 - 50 junk emails daily if not hourly! My inbox is also full of sales emails from various companies I have purchased from in the past. I really don't even look at the junk folder so can't tell you if I get that phenomenon (thank God for spell check) but I sure get a lot of offers from foreign women, enhancers for male performance, free gift and credit cards, and a myriad of offers for miracle drugs, financial advice, and other "must have" products...

PM sent!

Yes! Actually if you look at the treadwear specification of ALL the tires out there (I did) you will find that the Dunlop E-3 has the highest rating...

Just a FYI. Several years ago there was a member here by the name of Ponch who made up a really nice looking kit that replaced the cassette deck with a 3 gauge setup. Unfortunately Ponch had a really bad motorcycle accident and no longer rides or has anything to do with motorcycles. There are several members who bought his setup...

What happened with my module is it became detached from it's rubber mount and was dangling on the engine and the case partially melted. It caused some really wild problems, it would intermittently short out causing the oil light and temperature light to simultaneously come on, the turn signals would speed up, and I had this neat feature where you insert key, turn key, bike would automatically start!! Our fine friends at Pioneer Motorsports replaced the module for free under warranty assuming that the module was never properly mounted from the factory in the first place! That module new runs around $100...