Freebird

200,000 miles PLUS is not uncommon at all.

Yes, it's a known problem but as stated, doesn't seem to affect anything. I'll look into it further when I get the opportunity.

I was always told that the first liar doesn't stand a chance.

I was asked if I had any regrets about buying my new 2013 Road Glide just before a new one was supposed to be coming out. The new one was revealed yesterday. Only the standard model is out now. I have the Road Glide Ultra. The standards don't have the tour pak and etc. They are saying early 2015 before the Ultra is released. That being said, from what I have seen so far, I am not the least bit disappointed that I did not wait. I don't think it is bad and it will probably grow on me but at this time, I honestly like my 2013 better and they didn't make any changes that I feel would justify me trading at all. I do like the new "Infotainment" radio system but it's not that big a deal. This one has basically the same engine as mine. The new Ultra may get the Rushmore engine but I wouldn't want that anyway until it has been out a few years. I'm actually a bit relieved. I would have been disappointed if it had been something that I fell in love with after just buying mine. Oh...I do like the wheels though.

$40.00 per hour for shop time is pretty reasonable considering that most dealers charge probably double that.

I've done it both ways and I think that doing it as outlined, around 1,000 RPM, works as well or better.

Try this thread from the tech library. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1849

I tell you, I always used a full can to a tank of gas twice a year. Never fowled a plug or caused any issues at all. Of course that was on a second gen with a 6 gallon talk but still, I wouldn't hesitate to do it.

2.4 Litre GM motor. What vehicle is that motor used in? In the new cars I see 2.0 and 2.5 and some 1.8s and etc. but no 2.4.

and here's ours. Not using it as much as I thought though so may not keep it too much longer. On the other hand, it's paid for so whatever..... Regal Ambassador 233XL. Fore and aft cabins, head, kitchen. 350 Magnum.

You are trying to upload pictures that are way too big. Max size is 640 x 480 and no more than 200,000 bytes.

Maybe different in person but I'm not that crazy about that Indian.

I agree with the steering head bearings being the problem. Could be too tight or they could be worn out. You didn't say how many miles on on the bike but Yamaha did a poor job greasing the bearings on some of these bikes. It has caused premature wear on the bearings. If you have over 50,000 miles on it and have never serviced/greased the bearings, they could be shot.

I too will have to disagree with the statement that submersible pumps are not designed to be under water all the time. My well is about 200 ft. deep. It has a submersible pump ... not sure how far down but not too far from the bottom. The water in my well will often stay within 5 or 10 ft. from the top and so the pump has been submerged continuously since the well was drilled about 10 years ago. My deep well in Texas was the same way as are many others that I know of.

Most likely was not a stock part. Probably a Yamaha part but an accessory. It wouldn't be shown in the parts diagram.

The FAQ says that after removing the original front forks and wheel, the net gain in weight is only about 60 lbs. The price is perfectly in line with a conventional trike, Hannigan TriWing, etc. As for that Toyota, no thanks. This one still looks like a motorcycle. The Toyota looks like a three wheeled car. Don't get me wrong, the Toyota could be an option if you are just wanting a commuter vehicle but NOT to replace a motorcycle in my opinion.

Heck...I'll even do it for you. F4 https://www.f4customs.com Baggershield http://www.baggershield.com

Click until you see F4 shields banner at the upper right of the page. If you want one that can be adjusted up and down, click until you see the Baggershields banner. Both are sponsors here and make a great product.

Since you have checked the bulbs, I assume you would have mentioned if you found water and corrosion in the housing? That is a problem that I've seen a number of times on the RSV. I've changed a couple of them out for folks. It's always the left rear. I suppose that is because the bike leans to the left when on the stand and water seems to collect in it.

Sounds like you got a visor for the Royal Star and not the Royal Star Venture. Completely different headlight so I assume the visor is probably different also.

Same here. I have no idea what a 25-35 radio is.

That is pretty cool. I would love to see one in person and try one out.

I would say that you are correct. We've never really categorized them that way but it wold be correct to call the 1996 - 2001 Royal Stars a first gen model. The difference in the HP is because of the carbs (smaller) and the air boxes. From all that I've read, Yamaha was attempting to keep a very "clean" cruiser look with the early Royal Stars. Part of that was to hide the air boxes. You will notice that the later Royal Stars have the same large air boxes that the Royal Star Venture has. A box of each side that is readily visible. You won't see those on the earlier Royal Stars. By using the smaller out of site air boxes on the earlier Royal Stars, they weren't able to get enough air into them and therefore went with small carbs to keep the air/fuel ration correct. The HP and of course the performance took huge hit because of it. Baron's used to offer a "big air kit" for the early Royal Stars. Don't know if he still does or not. With the big air kit and some larger jets the HP could be increased a bit but still not to the level of the newer Royal Stars and Ventures. To really get to that point requires larger carbs and to install larger cards requires a custom machined larger intake to mount them to the bike. I know a few people who have done it. StarFan is a member here who lives in Iceland. He did the full modification with the larger carbs, custom intake, big air kit and even went with VMAX cams. From what I understand, his bike runs very strong. Hope this helps some.

Peder, just teasing you. I am certainly no expert on this subject and your explanation was much better. I was searching on YouTube and didn't find anything specifically on the Frigidaire bottom freezer models. I can tell you that on my old refrigerator, the defrost thermostat was clipped to the coils and you had to remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer to access it. The defrost timer on that one was under the front edge of the unit. You just had to remove the front base cover and you could see it. It was an older model though. It had a red knob and though it moved very slow, I made a mark with a marker and could see that it was turning. I think that the newer ones have more of an electronic type timer though and I"m not sure where they are located. I can tell you though, after searching YouTube for your information, I saw a LOT of videos about plugged drain lines as Van and others have mentioned. Seems to be the most common issue.

By the way, I went through the exact same thing about 3 weeks ago. I tested the thermostat and timer as well as the heater and it was all working as it should have. Mine was a side by side and first the freezer stopped getting cold enough to freeze and it was barely keeping the refrigerator side to around 40 degrees, not cold enough. Finally narrowed it down to the compressor. It was probably 15 or 16 years old. Guess who ended up buying a new refrigerator.