Freebird

Now isn't that what I said?

If you are lucky, it is either the defrost timer or defrost thermostat. Look on YouTube and there are some videos on how to check them. If you are NOT lucky, your compressor is going out and you may as well buy a new one.

I still think I can take most of you.

My list of folks that will have to be banned is getting way too long.

You and I know the truth Skid....they will never buy it though.

Very cool and GREAT pictures. Good to see somebody actually posting in this area. Maybe I need to rename it to "The Witches Lair".

HEY...you guys leave me alone. I'm getting old but peddling as fast as I can.

OK...first let me say that in regards to the warranty, I don't give it a lot of thought. Never did with the RSV and didn't with the Harley. If I have a warranty issue and they refuse it because of a mod that I did, they need to be ready to prove that my mod caused it. I will fight them tooth and nail and have done so in the past with Chrysler and even with Yamaha and I won both times. The bottom line though is that though the warranty is important, making the bike my own is more important to me so if I lose a warranty issue because of it, so be it. Now that being said, my Harley dealer actually sells the gutted head pipe. They are the one that told me about it. They cut the head pipe open and remove the catalytic convertor and then weld it back up. You take your old pipe in and they an exchange for $100.00. I removed the original and installed the replacement myself. That is what I did and they assured me that it would not affect my warranty. Now if I run into a major problem on the road and have to visit a different dealer? Who knows. As for the rear cylinder cutoff, yes, mine has it. On older models, you rolled the throttle back at idle to deactivate the rear cylinder. On the newer ones, it does it automatically when are are idling for a specific amount of time. Probably has some type of temp sensor too but I'm not sure. At any rate, I'm sure it helps but when I was stuck in Chicago traffic on that hot day it really didn't seem to matter. I was already VERY hot. There is a sequence of pushing buttons and etc. that allows you to deactivate the rear cylinder cutoff but I have never done it. I have found nothing negative about it shutting down and if I'm not mistaken, it resets to activated again once you turn the bike off and then start it up again. Eileen never complained about the heat at all. When I mentioned it to her she said yes, she noticed it but she didn't say much else about it. As for comparing it to the EVO, heck that was so long ago that I really don't remember. I think that with the catalytic convertor removed, it is probably not much hotter if any.

That is very common and I think was mentioned in earlier posts. I've repaired a number of them for various members over the years. Every single time, it has been because they got cut where they pass over the lower triple tree in the groove near the stops.

Of course I will be 100% honest. My answer are inserted below.

I bought the filter and the tuner from Fuel Moto. They are a great company with excellent customer support. The filter is much the same as the K&N and I don't know that it's not made by K&N. I bought it from Fuel Moto because I got it CHEAP when packaged with the tuner and they also send you the new program based upon their vast experience with various combinations of exhaust, filters, etc. I think that the passenger space is very close to the same as the RSV. My wife likes to put a pouch on the back of the drivers backrest so that takes up some room. I had the trunk on the RSV moved to the rear holes to give more room. She was OK with it the way it was but VentureRider member Ironmike happened to have this KuryAkyn adjustable trunk relocator and did some trading with me for it. So....free is good and I like it.

Yep...gotta fly the VentureRider flag...no matter what.

OK...I know it's not a Venture but I just updated my photo album. Not most or your bike of choice but I still like to share as do most of you. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=3030

That is already present in the classifieds. That is where any ads should be placed.

I loved them. I learned about them from Rick Butler. He did a lot of research on springs and learned that Progressive really doesn't make a heavy enough spring for the RSV. Unless they have come out with something new, the spring that Progressive shows to fit was actually design for the older Royal Star. Sonic does offer one and it seemed perfect to me. I have since sold that bike to Yammer Dan but I was 100% satisfied with the Sonics.

I sort of agree. Heck, if you trust the regulator and choose to do it that way then that's fine. I would bet that a lot of people don't even have a compressor though so that means using the one at a gas station or wherever. I happen to have two decent compressors but I don't know that I really trust the regulators that much, especially at such a low psi. I understand about not wishing to waste $40.00 but for these bikes and even for my Road Glide, I think it is money well spent. I also will tell you that I have adjusted mine in the middle of a trip because I wasn't loaded exactly as heavy or light as I had thought I would be and it needed to be adjusted. So while you obviously trust your compressor and regulator and are comfortable doing it that way, I still think it is good advice for most people to spend the money for the progressive pump.

Not in my opinion. I put Sonic Springs in the '99 and never used air again. Typically ran 35 - 45 in the rear. 45 when riding two up and pulling a trailer. Zero in the forks. Much easier to keep them balanced that way.

Cowpuc is right about the timing belts. You need to do your homework. Some engines use timing belts and some use chains. Even within the same makes and models you will find that they could use a belt or a chain depending upon the model year. If you buy a used car or truck with higher miles, you need to expect to spend a good amount of money to have it replaced if you aren't able to do it yourself. Most manufacturers recommend that the belts be changed at around 90,000 miles. Depending on the car, that can cost you anywhere from $900.00 - $2000.00. That can make the good deal that you thought you got not such a good deal after all. It is important that it be done though because if you lose a timing belt, you are very likely to completely trash the engine. I would look for one that uses a chain. I know that my son's Nissan Altima with the 2.5 four cylinder has a chain. I think the newer Honda engines use a chain but I'm not sure what year they started doing so. Some Toyota models also use chains but again, it depends upon the model year.

OK..just found this and it sums it up better than I could. Geo models were manufactured by GM in joint ventures with three Japanese automakers. The Prizm was produced at the GM/Toyota joint-venture NUMMI assembly plant in Fremont, California, and the Metro and Tracker were produced at the GM/Suzuki joint-venture CAMI assembly plant in Ingersoll, Ontario. The exceptions, the Spectrum and Storm, were entirely manufactured by Isuzu in Japan. Geo Metro convertibles and early Geo Trackers were built by Suzuki in Japan.

Some were and some weren't. It depends on the model. I think the Metro was a Suzuki, one was actually a Toyota Corolla....can't remember now what model that was. Anyway, they came from two or three different manufacturers. OK...it was actually the Geo Prism that I was thinking about that used the Toyota engine and transmission. Chassis may have been made by Chevrolet, not sure. The Geo Storm was from Isuzu.

OK...I'll admit it. I bought one a few months ago. I was working a trade show in Orlando and happened to walk by a booth that was doing demos. I let them talk me into the demo and ended up buying one. I will say that I am very impressed with it. You have to be careful because the darn thing HURTS if you turn it up too high. The fist time I used it, it didn't seem to be working and through a combination of fiddling with the various settings I ended up with it all the way up when I finally did something and it came on. I almost jumped out of my skin. I honestly haven't used it much because I just don't take the time to do so but I can say that when I've had some pain in my shoulders and upper back and use it for a few minutes, it really does help.

I agree. A lot of the trailers that folks buy are not specifically designed for motorcycles. They are designed to be pulled behind compact cars and/or motorcycles. Many trailers that are actually designed as motorcycle trailers do have motorcycle type lights. I know that my Bushtec does and have seen others that do as well.

I don't think that doing the stage 1 will help all that much. The problem with the earlier Royal Stars are that the carbs were smaller and the air box was smaller. Baron's used to offer what they called a Big Air Kit. That allowed it to get more air and of course also required the different jets which is probably what you are referring to as the stage 1 kit. From what I've read though, never done it myself, the only real solution is to install larger carbs from a First Gen or even a Second Gen Venture. It is not just a swap of the carbs though. It requires a custom machined intake because they are not a direct bolt on. Some have done the carb swap, stage 1 air kit and even VMAX cams and then they really wake up. It requires a good bit of work though.

Based upon what? The comment about it having a stud or hole where one should be is not necessarily true. Most of us who have gone with the VMAX rear conversion have done it through RSVPowermax or some company close to that name. He removes the gears from the VMAX rear and re-installs them in the RSV housing. So you really can't tell me looking at the housing. There will be no external differences.

I don't know of anybody that has found a CT that will fit on a first gen. Makes sense that you would have to go to an antique car parts source. Maybe something from a model T?