Marcarl

All our grandkids and great grandkids have one, just to be able to get their goodies from grandma on Dec 05, Sinterklass.

Seems like my memory says that you need to drill out the shifter and then insert a bushing,,,, yep that's my recollection, at least for now.

Finally the wooden shoes show up. Did you redo those as well. Wondered how long we had to wait for them.

Tel her it's for safety reasons, got to be something there that would make it safer me thinks.

I'm not much help in that regard I'm afraid, not that versed in 2nd gen build. Hopefully somebody will jump in here.

Looks real good,, now take good care of it.

They are totally adjustable because of the 'knuckle' mounting. They also have a larger pad area which also gives a more comfortable installation. Normally with highway pegs you set them close to what is comfortable and live with the results and get used to it, with these you can set them so that they serve you the best way possible. I wouldn't buy anything else.

Follow the sequence to the letter. First of I think is the rear left, it doesn't have a sync screw and is only adjusted to set the idle and that would be the 'hidden' thumb screw between the 2 carbs and is your base carb.. Set that to 900rpm, then the other carb on the left side needs to pull the same vac. It seems you have that about right. Always keep the idle at 900 or you will change the vac draw as you go, and that is done by adjusting the idle screw only on the left side. Now comes the fun part on the right side, which screw does what. Look closely at the linkage, one carb is linked to the left side, the other has a link going to the other one on the right side. First sync the right side together, keeping the idle at 900, then adjust so that the right side 2 come together with the left side, always going back to adjust to 900rpm.

Put in some methyl hydrate to clean out the water.

Hoping you guys have many enjoyable hours on those wheels.

Greasing the final drive spline is kind of touchy. I've used molly and found it didn't stick very well and soon the spline was dry, and then went with Lucas X-tra heavy duty and it kept the spline wet. Some guys also use a Honda grease and find that works.

Yep,, so what is it you want from us?

Sounds good from here.

Naugh=T was nice.

Good to have you back, hoping you can enjoy riding for a while longer.

It costs me just over $200 to fill my truck,, maybe I will get a smaller tank.🙄

I have heard they are out of business, but their website is still and seems they are attending some 2022 rallys, so I would think they are still in business. http://bakerbuiltairwings.com/index.php

Yep, 'specially when you have a good tool to do the job with.

Sounds about right

I'm confused.

Usually not a big item unless the gaskets need to be replaced. With the right sized allan wrench, bcak off the nut and retighten, it may take a couple of trys, if that don't work then the exhaust pipes will have to be removed and new gaskets put in, that's more work.

Yep, for sure would make a difference in fuel mileage.

You may have routed the choke line wrong, don't think there is an adjustment.

Quick,, keep an eye out on Robin, if Bob is gone there is just holding her back from anything, and Debbie will be sneaking around as though nothing un-towards is happening. There's trouble at Kenlake I tell ya. Now for Joe and Bob,, now worries,, neither have any idea on where they might be going or how to get back on their own. I will keep an eye out for them and if they show up here I will put them to work.

Something that came to mind as I watched. The proper procedure to set the rear wheel is to snug, not tighten, the 4 acorn nuts on the pumpkin, then to insert the axle and snug tight, then to tighten the acorns and then to torque the axle. Don't know if you did it this way, just thought I would comment seeing as many guys have no idea.