luvmy40

The Beast is my '83 Venture, XVZ12TK The first time my wife saw her with the trunk off, she said "She is a sexy beast, isn't she?" The name fit and stuck.

I'm signed up and have the weekend on the requested time off list. Hopefully my better half will be able to come this year. I sure hope The Pucster and VAZ can make it this year as well as everyone I met last year.

made2care, I can vouch for the quality of Earl's(skydoc_17) products. I did not use his fuse block kit, but I have installed several of his upgrades, including my current brake and clutch line conversion project. The quality is high and the prices are good Then you also have to take into account the fact that Earl is generally one heck of a nice guy.

Thanks Bob! My curiosity was killing me! I was able to isolate the clutch line "pipe" with a 12"x1"x1" length of medium density closed cell neoprene foam. I sliced it through half way lengthwise, wrapped the line with it and tied it all together with wire ties then bolted the front scoop and engine guard back on. Everything pulled together nicely and the line is not making metal to metal contact anywhere. The clutch system is tight and bled. Working perfectly. I just hope the rebuild fixed the slow leak. I had been needing to top off the reservoir every other week or so but could not find a leak anywhere. I also got the rear brake line put together(still no pads!) with the front brake proportioning valve removed and the port blocked off.

The Beast is my all time favorite ride. Bar none, it's the most comfortable, road eating, powerful and stylish bike I have ever owned. I also love the Yamaha XJ series bikes. I've owned the SECA 750 and the Maxim 750. I actually still own them. The SECA is a pile of parts today but the Maxim is still a good running little bike. My son has claimed the Maxim as his own(I'm good with that), so I am on the hunt for a new second, short hop ride. I love the look of the Triumph Bobber, it fits the bill perfectly. I haven't ridden one yet but I have many miles on semi customized Bonnies and liked them quite a bit. I assume the Bobber will be a nice ride. The Yamaha Raider recently came up on my radar. It is a gorgeous and mean looking bike right off the factory line. It's a good bit bigger than I was really considering but beautiful none the less. Again, I haven't ridden one but I did get to sit on one and it does feel to be a comfortable ride for local hops and even day trips. Yesterday, I saw the Yamaha Stryker. It is quite similar to the Raider with a 1300cc water cooled Vtwin as opposed to the 1900cc air cooled engine. I would imagine it is a little lighter if not slightly smaller than the Raider, but I could be wrong on that. My quandary is a good one to have I suppose. Which bike do I go with? All are available on the pre owned market now, though the Bobbers seem to be a bit harder to find used. I'd guess that is simply due to them being the newer model of the 3. The fickle first timers and RUBs haven't had enough time to lose interest them yet. Does anyone have any road time on any of these three? Opinions? Thanks.

The "new" front brake MC and old clutch MC are rebuilt and installed. The steel link line and neck mounted proportioning valve are removed, as are the old lines to the front calipers and the anti dive lines. The new front brake line assembly is installed sans calipers as I do not have the new pads as of today. The new clutch lines are installed, but I'm going to have to do something with the steel "pipe" that runs down the frame between the two short hoses. It's rubbing on the rear engine guard mounting tab and looks to be making contact in a couple other places as well. I might be able to isolate it with some neoprene foam, but if that does not work I'll have to bend up a new line and run some rubber fuel line over it to keep it from rubbing. I picked up the crank case cover gasket yesterday but forgot to ask if they had the brake pad pin clips. The rear caliper had cotter pins instead of the hitch clip style retaining clips. BTW, can anyone tell me what the two extra wires are for on the MK2 brake MC? The MK1 MC has the two white/black wires for the fluid level switch and a brown and a green/yellow wire for the brake light switch, all with bullet connectors. The MK2 MC has a black/white and a yellow wire with the brown and green/yellow wire in a four blade Mollex connector.

Take it slow. 1 step at a time and don't skip anything. You've been here before. Just keep in mind, if you do this right it will blow away the Wings or Harleys in it's class. AND SOME THAT ARE WAY ABOVE IT'S CLASS.

At this point, I'd just start cleaning and greasing every connector I could get at.

My local Yam dealer has the gasket in stock.

I doubt the throttle response is pilot circuit related, but I've been wrong before. Too lean on the pilot circuit would tend to cause a stumble coming off idle until the main jet catches up with the increased air flow. Not really a slow, or soft acceleration. It also shouldn't have much effect when rolling on the throttle at higher RPMs. You said the carbs are synched, but have they been properly cleaned and the diaphragms and jets inspected? Floats set? Have you done a compression test? Sorry if you've answered these questions earlier, I didn't review the whole thread this morning.

My care package from skydoc_17 arrived yesterday. All new hydraulic lines, a "new"(to me) MK2 front brake MC, rebuild kits for the new brake MC, clutch MC and clutch slave cylinder. I pulled the clutch slave, rebuilt it and reinstalled it this afternoon. Man what a PITA! The rebuild was painless and quick, but getting that little bugger out and back into it's hidey hole was brutal! I also remembered that I forgot to ode the crank case cover gasket. Hopefully the local Yamaha dealer has one. I've been pleasantly surprised by what they have in stock for The Beast many times.

Brake Calipers are rebuilt. They had not been giving me any problems but Man did they need the work!

Where are we seeing the merch and directions?

You could probably pull enough of a vacuum with your mouth if that's all you have to work with.

Just be careful to not pull too much vacuum. You could damage the diaphragm.

The easiest way to check the boost sensor is to disconnect the vac line from the carb or manifold and hook it to a mighty vac style vacuum pump. With the engine warm, at idle, no enrichment, pull a slight vacuum. if the idle changes, the sensor is working.

WooHoo! The Ignitech arrived two days early! I thought it would come with the software to adjust the programming. Hopefully it's a download now instead of a disc. No need for it today but I do believe there are some adjustments that need to be made to go with the COP conversion.

I got the progressives installed and have the delinking kit and MC rebuild kits coming from skydoc_17. I ordered the Ignitech ignition module and it's scheduled for delivery this Thursday. I just got off the phone with Mark @ Diamond Custom Seats after ordering a new seat with diver's back rest, custom built to my and my wife's inseam and weight. The anticipation is going to kill me! Now I just have to figure out how to carve out the time to get everything rebuilt and installed before the snow is done. A COP mod is next in line, but I hope to squeeze another season out of the coils.

The "Colt" .22lr guns are all made by Umarex which is either owned by Walther or owns Walther, I can't remember which way it rolls. I do not have the 1911, 22 but I do have a "Colt" M4, 22 that is a joy to shoot and very reliable. As reliable as any .22 rim fire can be. Though I don't own one, I have fired many rounds through the M&P 22 pistol. also made by Umarex and it was also very consistent. I doubt the weight and trigger are really anything like a true 1911, but I'd go for it anyway as I'm sure it'll be a load of fun for plinking.. BTW, the 1911 .22 conversion kits are stoopid expensive!

YamahaLarry is making some great tee shirts. Maybe he and Don could work up a VR line? I'd buy a couple tees and maybe even a jacket.

The Frankford trays are only 1/2-3/4" deep. I load .308 in them but I can't honestly say they'll hold a completed round, primer up stable.

Are you talking reloading trays o ammo boxes? I use these for reloading https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Perfect-Reloading-Convenient-x/dp/B00W8XHC3A I have several for 9mm, .45acp. 32acp, .223, etc. You can set them up bullets up or primer up, either way.

The tees arrived today. They look great and are very comfortable. Thanks!

Got the forks drained, opened up and the progressives in. Waiting for the progressive 10w fork oil to arrive. Caliper seal kits en route from Vickersguy. THANKS! I'll remove and disassemble the calipers tomorrow or this weekend. Just waiting for my tax return to hit the bank to finalize the delinking kit purchase with skydoc-17. BTW, what's the consensus on the spacers for the progressive springs? Full length? Half?...?