luvmy40

Definitely go with an AGM. I've had great results from AutoZone's AGM power sport batteries. One of the PO's must have done the bypass on The Beast as I have always had and AGM with no probe and do not get the warning indicator for the battery. I hear it's not a difficult procedure.

Yeah, the compression is a little high. I've had her past red line a few times, briefly with no odd noises or vibrations.

One of these days I am going to take The Beast to a street night just to see what she'll do in the quarter. I know she'll hit 95 in 3rd and I've had the speedo well past 120 more than once on deserted stretches of highway but I've never clocked a quarter mile run. The only "performance" mod made is tighter shims on the carb needles. Otherwise she's completely stock, engine and drive train wise.

I went to look at that bike about a week ago. There are a couple minor issues and one major(to me). I would still agree that he is not asking for too much but I might try to negotiate it down a bit for one reason. The main fairings halves both have what I would consider major damage. The front corners under the mirrors are mostly missing. Not a huge area but significant. Maybe 3/4" wide and running down from the top corner. They are covered with tape and are really not all that noticeable until you look closely. He does have the trunk/passenger back est and it is in excellent condition. The paint, for the most part is in very good shape. Other than the fairing corners, the plastics are all in very good condition. The side bag covers are not original as he learned the hard way to lock them when riding. The replacements are just black rattle can painted. They don't look bad, just not right. He says he might have the driver's back rest and a trailer hitch for it. Not 100% sure but he thought it came with them and he has not gotten id of anything it came with. The radio has been removed and replaced with the left side cargo bucket and that elusive left side cover. It started easily and idled smooth but I did not ride it as I did not have enough cash in hand to make an offer or cover an accident. This was a preliminary inspection as he is only 30 min. away from my place of employment. The wind shield is cut down to only an inch above the console and painted opaque black.

They are working perfectly.

I could not get a link to work. Search face book Market Place in Hanover PA for "Yamaha Venture Lowering Kit"

Funds sent via Paypal. Thanks Don!

I've been meaning to get one of these for a long time. I've also been considering switching over to E4s so now may be the time to pull the trigger on the YellowThing. https://www.nomartirechanger.com/YellowThing_Tire_Tool_p/ac-yellowthing.htm

Yes I am aware and it is sitting on the lower of the two safety bolt settings. This actually standard for any hydraulic lift. The more expensive systems have auto ratcheting safety stops that are always active until you deactivate them.

It seems that all of the complaints about the bottle jack going bad are from 2-3 years ago. I may be wrong. Also the vast majority of reviews I found dated later than 2017 all seemed to give high praise. I do realize that a portion of those reviews are probably from people who used the lift once and never again. However, it would appear that there have been some improvements made. I will certainly keep the forum posted if I have an problems with the lift.

If you haven't already, you should slip a length of fuel hose over the steel clutch line to keep it from rubbing on the frame, mounting clamps, etc.

Yeah, with no center stand, it wouldn't be much of an advantage for tire changes. Up on the center stand, I'll just have to put a jack stand under the front cross member and I should be able to get both wheels off. That is if I can get everything lined up correctly. The removable access panel for serving the pump should allow me to drop the rear wheel without dropping the front end. I wanted it more for engine maintenance. I'm getting ready to pull the carbs and do the valve shims on the maxim. I see the lift drastically speeding things up and making the work much less back breaking and knee scraping.

If you decide to get this, bring a friend, or 2. I managed to get it off the truck and into my shop by my self, just barely. It weighs in around 300 lb. in the crate and is extremely unwieldy. Mine was nearly fully assembled in the crate. Some of the youtube reviewers had to mount the casters and wheels. After getting the crate open I was able to drag it in the door on the wheels and get it all leveled up on my extremely un-level shop floor. The hardest part of getting the Maxim on the lift was getting the bike at the right angle in small working area. After finagling things around till they all lined up, I just pushed her up from the left side and set her up on the center stand. A couple ratchet straps on the lower fork tubes and she's very secure. There is a slight bit of movement if I try hard to make things move, but all in all the whole set up is more stable than I expected it to be. While I wouldn't go so far as to say it is built like a tank, it's much heavier duty than the price point would indicate. The maxim is just a little over half the weight of the Venture but I'm quite sure this lift will handle The Beast quite nicely. ETA: I just compared the specs and the Maxim weighs a little over 200 lb less than the Venture. 531 lb. Vs 751 lb

I plan on using the center stand and a jack stand with ratchet straps so I probably won't even use the font wheel clamp. Just the wheel stop.

I just thought I'd share this here. I think I'm going to get one tomorrow. No more aching back and screaming knees for me! HFMCliftcoupon.pdf Hmm...I guess a PDF file won't embed like a JPEG. Anyway, it's a coupon for the 1000lb Motorcycle lift from Harbor Freight for $289.00

I think Steven's tongue was placed firmly in his cheek as he typed that last statement.

Assuming we're talking about the '83, there is really no need for a handle on the fuel petcock as there is no reserve setting and the fuel cannot gravity feed if a float sicks anyway. Do the MK2s have a reserve position?

With my record on Craig's List and Face Book? That's way too far for me to even consider taking a look at it. I am going to take a look at a red '87 Royale this evening. I doubt I'll get it as the guy wants more than I have available right now. If it's in as good shape as the pictures indicate, he's not asking too much, just more than I have liquid at this time.

:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2334972653387688/ I didn't know there was such a monster!

No clue what that is! On the seized engines, there's a an old school process I've seen examples of successfully reviving 80+ year old engines. Heat the engine up with an electric hot plate, drain the old oil and sludge, flush with kerosene, refill with fresh oil, add oil to the cylinders, reheat and hand crank. Like I said, I've seen this work on 1 and 2 cylinder antique engines and I have freed a seized vacuum pump with a similar procedure(no kerosene).

So, this about the '83 but could apply to any hydraulic clutch, I think. I recently rebuilt the clutch MC and Slave, installed new SS hoses and wrapped the steel line with insulating foam for vibration/rub protection. The system bleed nicely and the clutch has worked perfectly since the work was done. (Probably 1500 miles or more.) I checked the reservoir yesterday and it is at exactly the same level it was after bleeding and topping it off initially. Here is what is happening: Twice now, not consecutive days, in the morning(first start of the day) I pull the clutch lever to shift into neutral and it will not shift. I hit the starter button with the clutch lever pulled and the bike jogs forward. I then release and pull the clutch lever a few times and everything works as designed for at least the rest of the day. As I said, it's only done this twice. The first time was the morning after returning home from MD. The next was yesterday morning. Any thoughts?

I wonder if it would be possible to mount a small magnet with the reed switch to boost the low power signal from the LED lamp? Or(lets get really deep in this) make an amplifier to run the read switch.

https://www.autozone.com/wrenches-pliers-and-cutters/wrench/duralast-2-pcs-metric-ratcheting-wrench-set/951644_0_0 This may be the best $30 I ever spent.

Yep! That's it. I didn't notice the dirty white walls but I did notice the rear tie still had the blue paint lines on the edge of the tread.

I stopped by my local Yam shop today just to look around. They had a '98 Royal Star Tour Classic with 7500mi on the clock. I figured "What the heck, I'm here. I might as well take it for a spin." I was pleasantly surprised. After hearing about how top heavy the RSVs are and how they have so much less power than the Gen1 bikes, I thought It'd be like riding a beached manatee or something. First, I didn't find it overly top heavy. Now that may be because it is the Tour Classic with no trunk and the rather large, low slung soft saddle bags. Possibly? Second, the seat height was perfect for my relatively short 29" inseam. Third, while I didn't take her out on the highway, there seemed to be plenty of power off idle and she pulled hard though 3rd gear. Low speed handling was no worse than any Harley I've ever owned. I did have a hard time with the foot controls. I kept pulling my feet back to mid ship to brake or shift. I'm sure I'd get over that quickly though. I'm not sure I like the tank console speedo. I've never run one before and I would definitely have to braid or band the beard as it was directed right up into my face by the air flow past the "classic" wind screen and I could not see the speedo at all unless I held my beard to the side! It did pop a bit on decel, but it has shorty V&H mufflers so that may be the cause of that. All in all, I liked it. They are asking $2950.00 for it. I am still wanting a Gen1, MK2, but I may add this to wish list too. Any thoughts or advice?