Flyinfool

You do know that it is not to early to have my list started and to be checking it twice. :stickpoke:HA! look at that I can poke a stick tooo. But now that you mentioned it....... I wonder how she will like SNOW, and the gential whirrrrring of the http://WWW..........

I use the 7s in mine because that is what the manual said to use. Every once in a while I will make the 25 mile trip to work and never open the choke, I have not had issue with carboning up the plugs. Maybe that one heat range hotter makes the difference?? My plugs have 35K on them and still look and run like new. I do have a new set of plugs and caps sitting on the shelf waiting till they are needed.

Here is a pic of mom, her intake papers had her at 49 lbs after birth but still nursing.

Every "expert" so far has come up with a completely different guess as to what she is. From my research and observing her manners, I am guessing that there is a lot of Jack Russel in her. But her Mom is a 40 lb dog that is all white. I will see if I can get a picture of mom. At 12 weeks she is 9.5 lbs, seems a bit on the big side for a JR.

About the only other issue a bad plug can cause is static on the radios. A big clue is the tach acting intermittently. The tach is driven from the primary side of the #2 ignition coil. When the tach goes out it means the #2 cylinder is not firing.

Also, if yours is going to go out it is not something that happens suddenly. It will start by occasionally popping out of 2nd gear under very hard acceleration, as the washer continues to wear over time it will take less and less hard of acceleration to pop it out. This happens very gradually over a lot of time. So it is not like you are riding along and 2nd goes away suddenly. And even when it does go out, @cowpuc has put on around a million miles with no 2nd gear.

Your welcome,,,,,,,twice......

I hope it was not anything that I said that gave anyone the impression that linked brakes are for incompetent riders. Most riders here are a lot more competent than I am, linked or not. I was just saying the the roads that I have to ride everyday are dangerous with the linked brakes. After the 2nd time I was forced to brake hard on pea gravel over cement with the linked brakes I very nearly went down because the front locked. It may be partly due to my incompetence, but for me delinking fixed it. As for the newer bike coming out with linked brakes, they ALL have ABS so it will not be an issue no matter what the surface and therefore are no comparison to our 30 year old systems.

Baby proof is easy, Puppy proof is a lot harder, this puppy can cross the house faster than a 1st gen that was Maxed...... Puppies are highly skilled and creative at getting into trouble......even more so than leaving me alone and unsupervised.

The stock Clutch springs will die of old age and allow the clutch to slip. The slip will first be noticed when you snap to full throttle in 5th while traveling around 50-60 mph. The RPM will come up faster than the speed. Your MKI's have a pressure plate with 6 coil springs. The springs can and will get weak. The Barnett springs are of much better quality and will not lose their temper over time like the stock springs. There have probably been a lot of clutches replaced over the years that only needed a new set of springs. Or would have lasted a lot longer if the springs had been replaced sooner. If you can feel the clutch slipping at full throttle in 5th gear, then it is like at least creeping all the time wearing its self out. The 1st gen MKIs have the 6 coil springs like the Barnett, The 1st gen MK II and the 2nd gens all use a diaphragm spring that has the same issue of getting soft over time. The MK IIs and the 2nd gens can be converted to the Barnett style springs or just put in a stronger modern diaphragm spring. Regardless of which system you have, Replace the springs with the available stronger springs, the stronger springs just work better over time and do not require a lot more effort on the clutch lever. When you go in there to check out the clutch,, new friction plates measure 3mm (.1181 inch) thick and the wear limit is 2.8mm (.1102 inch) thick.

She is not another Molly by any stretch. There will never be another Molly. I hope she has enough toys scattered about that she will not need to chew anything else. She loves some of her toys and her raw hides

I was working on a system to add a train horn to my first gen. It would mount into a 1 - 1/4 receiver hitch. I do not know if anyone makes a receiver hitch for the SVTC. This plug in also doubles as a cooler rack for day trips. Since the stinger part bolts on it would be easy to adapt the design to match any receiver hitch

As for what breed? She is a pure bred Hinze 57. The kill shelter in Alabama where she came listed her as a St Bernard puppy. (I sure hope not). The rescue shelter that I got her from lists her as a Springer / Border Collie. There is one pic of her mom that I saw but can not find a copy. Mom was all white and about 40 lbs and looked like maybe had some Lab in her. Here dad is completely unknown. Just for curiosity sake I was thinking of doing a doggy DNA test to see what that says she is. Her name is Bailey. The foster home she was in taught her a lot of bad things that need to be untaught ASAP so that proper manners can be taught.

All of the adoption papers are now signed, paid for, and delivered to the proper places. We now have a bouncing little girl in the house. She is a real cutie. Was born 4-3-18 and has already grown up to 12 lbs. Oh well, I guess sleep is over rated anyhow.

It is also amazing just how far some will travel with the lure of free food to come to your house and do some soldering or better yet teach you how to do some soldering. So you might meet a new friend and it might cost dinner..... That aint so bad.

Those red things are a failure ready to happen. They should be outlawed, they are so bad. When you use those they will cut several strands of the wires, reducing the wires ability to carry the required amps, they will breach the insulation with nothing to keep corrosion forming moisture out of the connection, and are made using a dissimilar metal to help promote galvanic corrosion.

Ouch!!! Good time to learn to be ambidextrous.......

Start by cleaning the battery pos and ground connections. Then we can get into more detail.

It could be a temperature sensitive component in a module. It could be a loose connection that is getting hot and when it gets hot and expands it breaks the connection until it cools off. The bad part is that it is nearly impossible to find it when it is running perfectly. You have to catch it in the act. You have to find the way to make it malfunction so that you can find where the fault is.

It looks like you may have the dreaded electrical intermittent. Unfortunately, as long as it is running there is no way to find the fault. The best you can do is to start it up and then start jiggling wires till you find the one that kills it.

I am not sure where the difference comes in between the 1st and 2nd gen, but it is well documented the the 2nd gen has to much rear brake and the 1st gen even delinked does not have enough rear brake. It may just be the difference in the geometry of the brake peddle and riding position that gives you a lot more leverage on the brake peddle, but the difference is there. The fix for a delinked 1st gen and the fix for a 2nd gen are very different and doing the wrong fix could be dangerous.

Yes the 2nd gen has its own rear brake issues, BUT the OP is trying to figure out his 1st gen rear brake. The 1st and 2nd gens are very different as far as rear brakes are concerned.

Back to the beginning. When it is cranking but not starting, is there power on the red/black wire at the ignition coils? At one point you did not have power and then you did. Is there power on the red/white wire at the 6 pin connector on the TCI? If you can get to it?

Yes those look like the load resistors for the LED turn signals.