Flyinfool

Oh man! You guys are making me blush. It was just a couple of wires and some head scratching on the bike end. Glad you are happy with my work.

Looks like you got it in there.

Well someone had to do it........

Well if you are from WI you have to like the Badgers......

But did she ever make you do it again after that????

On my 88 the switch for the clutch lever was sticky. The plunger no longer moved in and out. Take that switch apart and clean the contacts and the actuation plunger, don't forget to clean the inside of the hole that the plunger goes through. I then lubed it with dielectric grease. This is cheap and easy so I would start here. I also had to replace the clutch lever and the bushing and the pivot bolt because they were very worn.

In this case 1/4W or 1/2W does not matter. Either will work equally well. Was the warning light and icon off with the old battery? If so then the CMU was working at that time. Double check your connections, start with the 2.2 K ohm. He said he tried everything he had and nothing worked.

You are on the right path. the next step, unless the gears are stripped, pinion teeth must equal ring gear teeth for one revolution of the tire.

Are you volunteering?

That is the exact thread I was thinking of. Thanks Dingy. I splained it better in that thread.

Oh sure, blame their lack of fun on me.......

I hope he checks in to let us know his progress.

Herin lies the issue. The sensor is not counting pinion revolutions, it is counting the number of pinion teeth that go by. Look at the position of the sensor, it is located centered over the pinion teeth. In order for the sensor to count pinion revolutions, there would have to be a feature on the pinion that only goes by the sensor once per revolution, and the sensor would have to be located over that feature. There were pics posted somewhere looking into the sensor hole to show this clearly, I can not find them right now. Maybe someone has or can take pics of this.

Your close but need to go one step farther. But we have to agree on a few things; First we must agree that with either gear set the the bike moves the same distance per revolution of the rear tire. Then we must agree that the sensor is counting the number of pinion teeth that go by and not the RPMs of the pinion. Then we must agree that the electronics on the bike are doing the math to figure the distance traveled by one revolution of the rear tire compared to how many teeth went by the sensor in the time it took the rear wheel to make one revolution. Then we must agree that with the 3.667 gear ratio the 9 tooth pinion turns 3.667 revolutions per revolution of the rear tire. Then we must agree that with the 3.300 gear ratio the 10 tooth pinion turns 3.300 revolutions per revolution of the rear tire. Here comes the math test; If the 9 tooth pinion is turning 3.667 revolutions per revolution of the rear tire then the sensor is seeing 9 teeth X 3.667 revolutions per each revolution of the rear tire, or 33 teeth. If the 10 tooth pinion is turning 3.300 revolutions per revolution of the rear tire then the sensor is seeing 10 teeth X 3.300 revolutions per each revolution of the rear tire, or 33 teeth. Now where have I seen that 33 number before:think: So based on the math, both the 9 and 10 tooth pinions will see 33 teeth per revolution of the rear tire. Thus 33 pulses per distance traveled by the rear wheel in one revolution. I know it is hard to wrap your head around but the math don't lie. OK maybe it was more than one step.......

I'm betting that any lady looks better than Boomer......

There is no enjoying the scenery when you are traveling with an electrical gremlin on board, always wondering just when it will die again.

What Frank said. There is also the possibility that whomever cut out the front of the air box also rejetted to be able to use the extra air. With a whole side cut out of the air box it would have run terrible without rejetting. These bikes are very sensitive to changes in the air box.

If a diode is gone, as in missing, the TCI is toast. The doide replacement is only a preventative option on a good TCI. When a diode dies it allows a high voltage reverse polarity spike into one of the custom ICs and fries it. I did not unsolder the connectors to get mine apart. I made a cut thru the plastic just behind the connectors and then just glued it all back together with black silicone sealing the cut line. There is to big of a chance of damaging the board trying to get all of those connectors out of the board. I would doe the obvious repairs to the board (peek in the edges as best you can to see if there is any corrosion on the other side of the board that may also need repair) and then test the TCI to see if that fixed it, if that did fix it then do the diode replacement as long as you have it out and open.

I have a NIB HO stator and RR that I bought to upgrade my 88, that I have not installed yet. I also have the gasket set. At least I am in the right state but about 125 miles south of you.

I have had my mufflers off many times and reused the gaskets with no leaks.

What do the diodes on the other side of the board look like?

I never had mine off but I seem to remember that there is a mounting bolt right in the middle of the collector that you can not see. I don't know if the collector will come off without taking some other pipes off first.

Do not use a big soldering gun, you will overheat the board and make it worse. Use a small soldering pencil under 40 watt. Use solder with lead in it, not the modern lead free junk. Use rosin flux, not the corrosive stuff made for plumbing. The worst that can happen is it still wont work.

Ouch I hate road rash. and another Ouch for the bike. Glad you are not to banged up.

:sign yeah that: Just repair what you have till you can get another one. Resolder the loose connections and solder a jumper across any bad traces.