Flyinfool

All I kin say is "Dats our Puc"

Another thing to pay attention to. Many 2" receiver hitches are only rated to 9,000 lbs pull for winching. I have also been looking at getting a winch for similar applications. All of the reports that I have read on the warn vs the hf are that the warn pulls line a little faster than the hf. the various off road mags rate the hf as a good value. If you are going to be using the winch very often the warn MAY last longer. Because the receivers on my truck are rated 9,000 max for winching, I have been torn as to whether to get the HF 9,000 or the HF 12,000. For the once every couple of years that I will actually need it it, the HF should last me forever. I was planning to mount the winch to a receiver mount and then add a battery tray to that receiver mount so that I can move the winch to the front or rear of the truck and not have to install monster battery cables that will always be getting mud in the connectors. I will have a big deep cycle battery to run the winch. You can destroy a stock alternator running the winch off of the truck battery. I would not use the winch for felling the tree, they are not fast enough. I do have one tree that needs to come down before winter, It is very dead. It is leaning in the wrong direction for where it needs to be dropped. the tree is about 70 feet tall, I will use 150 feet of cable to attach it to the truck to make sure it goes in the right direction. It will not land on the truck. But I really do not want it to land on the house, if it falls north, or the well head if it falls east, or the electrical box if it heads south, it has to go west, it is leaning east. All of the notching in the world will not overcome gravity, a big 4x4 can. A big enough cherry picker or hiring a pro is not in the budget.

If the CB is working correctly you should get readings on all channels. My guess is that there is a problem in the CB on those lower channels. When you connect up your SWR meter. Do not use a separate coax from the meter to the antenna base. Use the same coax that will be used to connect the CB to the antenna, just remove the connection from the CB and put it right onto the SWR meter, then you will need a short coax to go from the CB to the SWR.

Hmmmmm....... I never even thought about temperature, but it makes sense. Has anyone ever checked warm and then again cold to see just how much of a difference there is?

It sure sounds like you two need to go for a short fast ride together.......:bikersmilie:

Snow, Now theres something I have not thought about for a while. And all those tildes look like snow drifts.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The "squiggles" are to the left of the number 1 on the main keyboard. It is called a tilde. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Oh no ~ old Puc might have learned sumpin today~~~~~~~~~~

Nice Job!!

Go for it. We have all been dieing to have someone put this on their Venture.

It is hard to say without seeing it, but odds are I would weld it back together and add a gusset for extra strength, and maybe add a gusset in the same place on the other side. Of course welding will mess up the chrome. You can either take it somewhere to get it chromed or splash some chrome paint on it, or take this opportunity to paint the whole thing a different color and get rid of some chrome.

Or you could hang loose for a couple of months to see if there is any truth to the rumors that there is a all new 2015 Venture coming based off the new VMAX engine. So then you would be happy to pay $50k for my '88. After all it is faster and it already even has collector plates on it, and it is such a rare version that it took me years to convince most of the experts on this site that it even does exist.

Yes Yes Yes No I'll have to dig to find the details.

I have always dragged a peg and never the center sand on my 88. But then I have never been 2 up. Try putting a tie strap on your center stand to be sure that you do not have a weak spring that is letting the stand sag with the G force generated in a hard turn.

On my 1st gen I have a BiXenon HID head light at 35 watts. This puts out way more light than than the stock halogen and saves a little power too. For driving lights I have the KC HiLiTES 35 series spread beam lights. These lights are focused between a driving light and a fog light. They do help light up straight down the road but they also do an excellent job of lighting up the ditches for spotting deer and other critters that are headed for the road. If you look at the lens they are angled outward. They are not the prettiest but they do work, are of good quality and have a 23 year warranty from a reputable company. They come with 55w halogens. If you are worried about the power you could down grade to 35W halogen. I am planning to convert mine to 35w HID. At first I could not use them in town, just out on the road where I will not spend much time at idle. Now that I have converted all of the brake, turn, and running lights to LED, and with the 35W HID headlight. I can now run these two 55W lights all the time and still be charging at idle.

I don't know if there is a significant difference in the RR between a 1st and 2nd gen. But on a 1st gen the voltage does not drop once the battery is charged. It's 14.0 all the time that the RPMs are up. This is the first that I have heard of a 2nd gen having a "smart" regulator to vary the voltage output based on the battery state of charge. But then I have never worked on the charging system of a 2nd gen either. If this is the case, I might want to put a 2nd gen RR on my 1st gen.

I don't remember if it is 30A or 40A...... Will have to look when I can take the false tank cover off.

Also replace with a name brand fuse. There are documented cases where some cheap Chinese fuses when run right at or slightly over their rating would melt but not blow.

I watched the pilot. It was mostly introducing the characters. I am more interested in tecno than the story line unless the story line gets to some action. The first episode just barely kept my hand off the remote.

I got a MAXI fuse and holder from NAPA for my main fuse.

I would doubt it. I don't think there is enough horsepower to red line 5th. 4th may actually top out higher than 5th. I also do not know of anyone that has what it takes too find out. My limit is 100MPH that is quick enough that I will be waiting at the next DQ for the Harleys and 2nd gens to catch up. On a trip a couple of years ago there was a group of 6 Harleys in the left lane of the interstate I had the cruise set a little faster than they were going so I moved over to the center lane to pass them. They aparently too offence to being passed and I could hear their pipes get louder. they pulled up by and were giving me looks that I did not like so I sped up, their pipes got louder again. Not want to play games I made sure to keep them well behind me. one of them must have had his engine well built because he was able ti punch it and catch up to me again. at that point I decided I had enough of them so at 85 MPH I dropped to 3rd, making sure he knew I down shifted twice, looked at him, smiled, and then hit it and put that last rider with the big engine, in the all gone machine. I think what added to the insult was that I was pulling a ~350 lb trailer, and they still could not catch a 26 year old bike.

An ohm meter will not show a weak crimp/connection, it will only show a completely open connection. To find a weak connection you have to have that circuit powered with its max amp load (everything on that circuit turned on) and then use a volt meter set on its lowest scale to measure the voltage across the connection, it should always be zero volts. Anything above zero is resistance that is turning some of the power into heat at the connection.

Progress is good. But 50°F is ideal to be outside working on anything. I rode the 25 miles in to work this morning at 52°F in just a short sleeve dress shirt. It was wonderful.

Glad you found it. Did you recrimp the rest of the fuse block? Those cheap crimpers from the hardware store are responsible for a lot of bad crimps. Good crimpers are expensive.

Nice,,,,,, :rotf:Aint gonna happen....... The tail lights should be on the signal fuse and the headlight should be on the head fuse. Did the PO do some creative wiring and put all the running lights on the headlight circuit. Is it possible that somehow the headlight had both the hi and lo beams on at the same time? Bad RLU? Bad headlight bulb? Depending on how it is melted, did the heat come up from the contacts or was it the element that got hot and melted the fuse plastic. If the heat came up from the contacts you likely have a bad connection. It could be a weak grip of the female contact to the fuse blade, or a weak connection of the wire connector to the fuse block or a weak connection at the crimp of the wire to the connector. In any of these cases there will usually be one side of the fuse alot more melted than the other, unless you have bad connections on both sides of the fuse. It has been documented that in some cheap fuses, the element will get hot enough and will melt the plastic instead of blow when run at just a little overload. What color are the wires going into the warm relay?

I did work on one bike for someone that had electrical issues. The problem was traced back to when the fuse panel was replaced one of the wires was pushed to far into the connector and crimped onto the insulation and only luck was making the intermittent electrical connection. The test on the two small wires at the solenoid, one of those wire is the same red/white circuit that is at the fuse panel. This would test to see if power was getting through all of the switches in the whole circuit. If it is not then we know we have to find the fault in the red/white circuit. If there is 12v at both terminals and the jumper cranks the engine, then we know that the fault is in the blue/white circuit and we can proceed to find where that is. But this test does give us a direction to head, and cuts the possibilities in half. I was starting at the end of the circuit to determine if it is a ground issue or a power issue. Sometimes while moving things around during the testing process it can suddenly start working. Then you now have an intermittent issue to trace down. There is no way to find the fault once it all starts working, and there is no way to know how long it will keep working or when/if it will leave you stranded. There is nothing worse that tracking down an intermittent issue. Sometimes (well at least once in a great while) there is actually a method to my madness.