Flyinfool

Since that looks like a potted assembly and that the conductors are damaged right where they go into the potting, your only hope is to very carefully remove some of the plastic around the wires to expose the wire, you can then solder new wires onto the remains of the old wire. If you can get this much to work, then fill in the holes you dug around the wires with some epoxy to cover the joint and then after the epoxy is cured build up some RTV around the wires to act as a strain relief. If this does not work then your only choice is to buy a new pump.

I think you just saved a lot of testing... On the solenoid there are the 2 big terminals, one goes to the battery and the other goes to the starter. Since you said that when you jump those 2 the starter cranks, does it start or just crank? There should also be 2 smaller wires going to the solenoid a red/white and a blue/white. With the key turned on check to see if there is 12V on both of those small wires. (Meter negative to battery negative) If there is 12V on both of those wires then connect a jumper from the blue/white to battery negative. This should make the engine crank so be ready for that. Did it crank? Did it start?

When you say you are jumping the solenoid, what exactly are you jumping from and to? Do you still have the original glass fuses?

If they really are coming out with a 2015 it MUST mean that they have finally found a new source for cassette decks. We know that nothing else matters to them.

Taking random pot shots at the issue is the hard way to find the problem. You need to go through this in a logical order to get to everything and not miss something. We will start at the beginning. 1. Disconnect your secondary battery, it might be confusing the issue and the bike does not need 2 batteries. 2. Put the battery on a charger to fully charge it. 3. Take the battery in somewhere to have it load tested. I have seen name brand new bad batteries. If bad get a new one, the old one should be under warranty. 4. Clean the battery terminals. Don't just look at them and see if they look clean. Actually clean them till they are bright and shiny. Same with the terminals on the battery cables. Put the battery back in the bike. 5. Connect your digital volt meter to the battery terminals. what do you get? 6. Turn the bike on, it should be very close to the same as test 5. 7. Hit the start button what voltage do you get? Should be around 10V. What did the bike do? It should have started. What if any noises did you hear? Did the voltage come back to where it was when you let go of the start button? Let us know what you get and we can work from there. There are a lot of things that can cause a no start. We will hit the easy ones first. Trouble shooting on a forum is not a fast or easy way to go, so have patients and we will get through this. I have never been a fan of the throw money and parts at a problem till you get lucky and hit it. It takes longer to do all of the testing to be sure that you are replacing a bad part, but I am cheap. It is comon for these confusing situations to have multiple issues, it is the interaction of the multiple issues that makes it confusing. That is why you need to isolate each component when you are testing it so that some other issue can not change a test result. The only way to get through this is to start at the battery and follow the power through all of the different components in order. It does not matter if something is new, it will still get tested to be sure the new part is good.

:sign yeah that: Ecxept I use a bath towel or a hand towel so that I can soak the whole windshield at once. In a pinch on the road you can cover the WS with paper towels and wet them with just the fluid that is available for the sandpaper squeegee, to soak while you pump gas, and then use your microfiber cloth for the final clean and dry when you are ready to pull out. Another trick is to only wash the WS vertically. It is the horizontal micro scratches that are the most noticeable, especially at night.

Only if you need them. A new disc will not grip any better than a used disc that is still in spec. OEM friction discs are 3mm (0.1181 inche) thick, worn out is 2.8mm (0.1102 inch) thick. My discs measured 0.1170 inch thick at 45,000 miles. I reused them.

Well at least this time you are feeding the better half....... Stop getting lost and get on down there before it is time to come home.

The HID make down the road visibility better not because the are usually 6000K, but because the make a lot more light. The light source in an HID is basically the same thing as the arc from a welder. It is just very bright for the watts that it uses. If possible I will always have HID on my bike till I see something better. LED is getting close but is not quite there yet. A dedicated LED in a housing designed for that LED will do a great job lighting up the road so the technology of getting a LED to produce enough light is there. Now we just need the light makers to make housings to make use of the LED light source. There is no replacement LED bulb (That I have seen) that will focus properly when swapped into a housing not designed for it. Even a HID swap is not perfect in a housing made for incandescent but is pretty darn close, and is acceptable (to me) as long as you take the time to aim it properly. I have tried the High wattage incandescent bulbs, they are bright, no problems there, but they draw a LOT of power and get really hot. The heat can melt the connector, many have had to switch to a ceramic connector to handle the heat. The power draw may be an issue if you have other power hungry things like heated gear or other additional lighting. So there is good and bad in all of the technologies that are available. You have to decide which advantages will outweigh which disadvantages for you. That is why you have seen several different opinions on which is the best way to get more light on the road. Each of these people chose which features were most important to them in their situation.

You always have the option to laugh at him and then make a counter offer equally insulting to the dealer and then offer to meet in the middle.

The 6000k only defines the color of the light. The higher the number the bluer the light. That 6000K has nothing at all to due with brightness which is what you need to see at night. A lot of advertising likes to make it look like the color number is the brightness just because it is a big number. Anything over 6000K is getting so blue that it will be hard to see at all, but it looks cool to some.... 4300K is a bit yellowish 5000K is very close to white light. 6000K is starting to show some blue but not bad yet. 7000K is getting pretty blue for cosmetic purposes and starting to get harder to see. My headlight is a 6000K only because at the time I bought it they did not make a 5000K.

There are some 2nd gens there so there should be plenty of whine........

A trickle charger is not good to leave connected to any lead acid battery long term. A battery maintainer is different than a trickle charger. A maintainer can be left on all the time. A maintainer has circuitry to measure the battery voltage and only give it more charge if it actually needs it. Some maintainers also have circuitry to desulfate the plates. The same one will work equally well on any size of lead acid battery. A trickle charger just keeps pumping in power whether the battery needs it or not. This is also not best for long term storage battery health.

Go git um.........

0.5% THD is also pretty bad. Most people with normal hearing would not be happy with it. The stereo on my bike is a Kenwood, 30W per channel 0.15% THD and I am not happy with that. It will be getting upgraded one of these days. I just can't decide on what I want to get.

Speaking of magnets for screws and nails. I put a very powerful N52 magnet on the bottom of my bike to help with traffic lights. I often find screws, nails, and other steel trash stuck to it. I figure every one of those was looking for my back tire.

Nothing feels better than a job well done. But I would still look into adding the relay, even if you have to sneak the wire along some where until you get around to pulling the tank.

More interesting tidbits. They have already fitted it to a Yamaha V4....... :bikersmilie:

The fuel pump will not run if the float bowels are already full. Open the drain on one of the carbs to empty the float bowel to see if the pump will then run. Its been done before, so I have to ask, are you sure the kill switch is in the run position?

Ya know Puc, that MKII that you have sitting in the garage has bigger bags, you might squeeze that bead braker in there.......Or strap it on to the crash bar next to the gallon milk jug.

I also gave up on Woot with the new owners, many items can be found for less, and the description is just not fun like it used to be. I am getting close to wanting to replace my ancient old Garmin nuvi 200. I am not looking for the cheapest that money can buy, I did that back when I got the one I have now. I want something that will work on both the bike and the car. I remember reading something that listed other "non motorcycle" Garmins as being waterproof even though the Garmin literature did not mention water proof. They were half the price of the "water proof" ones.

See Brian, You should know better than to mention oil....... How can you call something "such BS" and in rest of the statement agree with it? No one has disagreed with the concept that synthetic oils will make a tiny leak become obvious. I for one am not willing to do a complete engine rebuild to fix my weak 30 year old seals and gaskets just so I can run a synthetic oil and not have my parking spot look like a Harley parks there. No one said that the synthetic is damaging the seals or creating the leaks, but it is a fact that synthetic is more prone to leaking out through weak seals and gaskets than dino. Even you said so. The post you called BS said so. I think everyone else has agreed upon that. The OP mentioned that they were planning to put synthetic in an old bike, some of us were just pointing out that those old seals and gaskets may not seal as good as new seals and gaskets. Your bike may have great seals or been treated right all of its life. Great for you. Not everyone is so lucky to be able to buy a 28 year old bike that has perfect treatment for its entire life. I like synthetics, I run them in all of my other vehicles, just can't in my Venture, it won't stay in the engine, dino does stay in the engine.

You got enough popcorn for everyone??

You do not have 30 year old gaskets and seals.

I am 250 and ride 1 up. Tire pressure depends on the tires. In most cases 40 front and rear will be safe. Check the sidewall for max pressure. you want to be close to max pressure. Shock pressure My 88 lists max front at 21 PSI, I run 7 PSI Rear is 85 MAX I run 45 :sign yeah that: I tried Amsoil MC oil last year and the bike started to leak out of everywhere including the 3 year old valve cover gaskets. This year I went back to Valvoline MC oil and most of the leaks are now drying up. I am also getting better gas mileage with the Valvoline over the Amsoil.