Flyinfool

WOW $1800 is the base starting price, It goes up from there.

Any dirt or fingerprints on a bulb will take them out pretty quick. That is why I said to clean it with alcohol just to be sure that it was not touched during manufacture or packaging. I would not even touch it with latex gloves, some gloves may have have talcum power or mold release agent on them that could get on the bulb. I clean mine with a paper towel that was not just on the outside of the roll.

But of course not until after you buy it, the rough idle from a too low idle RPM can be a talking point on the price, If you fix it in front of the guy the price will go up. You never mentioned what the idle speed was, when it was running rough, But if you "revved it up to 1000 RPM" Then it was set to low. On the other hand the idle speed can drop if the carbs are way out of sync or it is not hitting on all 4 cylinders.

Go for the red, You are almost halfway there already.

The idle is supposed to be 1000, some try to turn it way down trying to make it sound like a Harley.

Since it has already removed some paint, the damage may already be done. But the damage does not show right away, it can take a few weeks to show up. It will start with a small hole that will continue to grow over time. It is like a bad cancer in the plastic. Repainting will not stop the damage from growing. Once the visible damage to the plastic starts, all you can do is to cut out the area buy cutting well into healthy tissue (plastic) to be sure you got it all. If you ever spill brake fluid on plastic, even just a very tiny drop, you need to wipe it all off immediately and then flush it with huge amounts of water, (garden hose on full with no attachment on end of hose) washing the spot with some dish soap in the water and then rinse with huge amounts of water. When I am working on the brakes I cover everything with many towels and plastic sheets and then still wash and water the whole bike immediately afterwards just in case a drop got past all the defenses.

You will not know if the pump is working till the tank is nearly empty. Go out and ride some more..........

OK so we wont tell you that we agree with you..... Yep sooner or later all bikes will take a nap. Sorry to hear that yous got a boo boo in the process. Usually they only go down to the crash bars and not all the way over.

Even more impressive is if they just happened to have a head gasket, or were they able to find one in stock locally.

Here is the real chat. http://host718.123flashchat.com/venturerider/123flashchat.php?init_group=venturerider

Here in WI got bad with the VA to the point that if you call your Senator they will light some fires under buts. The VA listens better to the persons holding their purse strings.

Being wired for a trailer should make no difference. It is possible to have an intermittent bad RR. The only way to catch it is to have a voltmeter mounted on the bike that you can check while riding.

I thought so......

Do you have the correct fuse on the headlight circuit? People have been known to put in a bigger fuse to stop a fuse blowing problem. Pics do not look like an over heated connector. It is possible that you just bought a new bad bulb, I have done that a couple of times over the years where a new bulb lasts for a very short time. Do not touch the glass part of the bulb with your fingers. the oils in your skin will cause a hot spot and early bulb failure. Clean the bulb with a CLEAN cloth and a solvent prior to install.

I have always been taught to Disconnect battery. I just always make sure the welders ground is on the new metal that is being welded, or on the side of a joint that is not the bike frame. The exception is welding a crack in the frame. Keep the welder ground close to the spot being welded. I only tack weld on vehicle and do all finish welding off vehicle.

Going to another insurance company will not help, Ever since they figured out that it is a good way to raise the rates on good drivers, they all do it. now to get a good insurance rate you have to have a clean driving and high credit score. The reasoning that they gave me when I complained was that the poorer people have the worst credit and people with more money have better credit. The more available cash you have the less likely you will file a claim for a minor damage. Poor people are more likely to file that small claim because they cant afford to just go fix it themselves.

Just figured I toss in an update. We are in the wait and see part. I hate waiting for anything. Had one more episode of bleeding, back on July 1, from where I shouldn't be leaking, was enough that I went to the ER to get it fixed, Good thing I did cuz I would not have stopped this one at home. I lost enough blood that it soaked all of the way through my pillow and down to the mattress all while I was sleeping. I did not realize that I was covered in blood when I walked into the ER, One look at me and they sure went into scramble mode. They gave me drugs to stop the bleeding and then adjusted my daily drugs and I have had no bleeders since. I guess heavy doses of 2 different blood thinners was more than my old dried out seals could handle. I am starting to show some signs of getting stamina back. The last 2 days I was able to make it to the top of the 54 stairs between where I park my truck and my desk. I was exhausted when I got up here, and it was a slow climb, but at least I made it. This week I have been able to put in 8 hour days. I think that is a good thing...... I go back to see the doc for some tests at the end of this month, on the 28th. This will be the first insight into seeing if this whole thing did any good or not. He will then make more adjustments to my meds with the goal of getting off of all the expensive prescription stuff and just be left taking aspirin forever. My goal is to get off of the drug that is keeping me off of the bike. (My poor bike still has last years crap gas in it.)

While that is great info for a 2nd gen Venture the setup for my 1st gen are different. The rules of thumb that I posted were for all bikes towing regardless of make or model.

Wouldn't it be easier to test them in the pond? The pond monster might not like it but.........

See now we hijacked this thread about feeling disappointed and turned it into a thread about PIE. Don't you feel better already?

The 7" drum brakes are not that terribly heavy. Since you are adding brakes the brakes can stop their own additional weight easily. The controller that I plan to use will be mounted on the trailer tongue, with a wireless remote controller mounted on the bars. The trailer will have a standard 4 or 5 wire electrical hookup. I just have to make sure my brake light circuit can handle the amps of the brakes. Should be no problem since my trailer lighting is relay isolated. This way too, the trailer can still be attached to any bike with the same 4 or 5 wire connecter. Mine will be setup 4 wire just cuz thats what everything already is.

We are trying again tonight. Come one come all.... Hers a shortcut to get you there. http://host718.123flashchat.com/venturerider/123flashchat.php?init_group=venturerider

The ignition bypass on the 2nd gens is adding a relay to carry the current and the ignition switch is only switching the relay coil power. This way it still works just like normal.

Kill switch should not take out horn and lights. I would certainly start at the fuse boxes.

Was that 500lbs the empty trailer or fully loaded? If that was before you add gear you may have a problem. Check the max weight ratings for the hitch that you have on the bike. The rules of thumb that I have always used are; 1. Tongue weight should be 10% of trailer weight. 2. Max tongue weight on a bike should be 40 lbs.* 3. Trailer gross weight not more than 50% of tow vehicle loaded weight. These seem to be in conflict. *The closer the ball is to the rear axle the more tongue weight you can carry. The lower the ball, the less side force the trailer will have if it does sway. If you have to little tongue weight, the trailer will sway. The faster you go the more likely to get trailer sway. You need to experiment to find out the limits of YOUR setup. Exact numbers of what works for me or anyone else, may or may not work for you. While Someone else's numbers may not be right for you, they may still be a good starting point. While you can to some extent control your following distance, to help with your increased stopping distance. That does not prevent some jerk from pulling into that nice gap and then having to hit his brakes because he is to close to the care in front of him, or the one that stops at the stop sign and then pulls out right in front of you. At some point a panic stop will need to be made. Make sure you have tested your limits fully loaded. My trailer is about 400lbs loaded, and I am not comfortable with the stopping distance. I have found all of the parts necessary to add electric brakes to my trailer. You may be able to check your trailer weight with a bathroom scale. One wheel at a time, and a hunk of 2X lumber under the other wheel, then check tongue weight with the trailer tongue at the same angle it is at while hooked up to bike.