Flyinfool

Lowering the front end until there is weight on the front wheel while the springs are removed will "fully compress" the front forks. It just means to compress the forks to the stop. you do not need pressure on the fork. Little by little I am shortening my spacer. The next step is no plastic spacer, just the factory aluminum one with the O-ring on it. I am still looking forward to the day that I get DOWN to only 230lbs of lard................. I am expecting the slow speed handling to get even better with no plastic spacer, it has improved with every shortening so far and the high speed handling has not changed with the spacer getting shorter. I know that at some point you cross a line and the low speed keeps getting better but at the expense of the high speed handling getting worse. Factory recommends 10W oil some people recommend 15W oil and some like me that can not decide, mix the 2 together to get 12.5W oil. Is it better or worse, I am to lazy to do the testing to find out.

Sometimes blessing come wrapped in the strangest of ways. dropping the bike got you to find the leak. having that hose blow on the road and lubing the rear tire with nice slippery anti freeze would have been much worse. There are some threads where some one figured out which car hose can be cut to make the various hoses for a venture.

I have been advocating grinding down the corner of that mounting point for a long time now. I then touch it up with "chrome" Colored paint from the hardware store so that the bare metal does not rust. You would have to look close to notice it.

It would be SOOOOOO easy for the phone makers to set the phone so that text or hand use phone would not function (except for 911) while the phone is traveling at more than 5 mph. Yes this would mean that the passengers also can not text, so what, they'll live. To me a true hands free phone is no different that talking with a passenger. I saw one yesterday where the guys eyes were so bad that the phone had to be 6 inches from his nose and a lot of squinting thru Coke Bottle glasses. This means that he had NO CHANCE to even catch something in his peripheral vision, the phone filled his full field of view. I wonder if his vision was good enough to even be driving.

I guess the technology makes this bike immune to a tire blowout, or a texter running a red light, or creaming you from behind while you are stopped a t a red light. or sideswiped on the freeway, or even just going into a curve to fast and finding gravel or any of the other myriad of things that you have no control over that can take you out.

Since you went down on the right side. Check the plastic elbow that runs from the water pump to the thermostat housing, the right engine guard can flex enough to put a tiny ding in that elbow and then spring back to looking like plenty of clearance, then a few months from now you will be chasing a coolant leak. That is the main reason that I de-linked my brakes, twice I got very close to going down by using only the rear brake and have the front lock up on gravel.

So what I draw from the video is that the CT was not able to hold a line in the curves and twice crossed over a double yellow center line. Or was that an optical delusion on my part?

Sometimes I really hate when I am right. Glad you are OK and hope the bike is not to bad either.

I would clean the rust off and paint any bare metal before assembling any part. I would also connect a set of jumper cables to the starter to be sure the engine still turns over. it is nice and exposed right now if it needs work.

Some more info;

Glad things are looking up for you.

If you had an intermittent internal connection in the battery, and it was tested while the connection was good, it would test as a good battery. But then on the other hand an open in the battery should not stop a running engine UNLESS, at idle the charging system output was less than the power demands of everything that was drawing power on the bike at that time. It is common to be running off the battery at idle with everything turned on. Simple check, Measure the voltage across the battery with the engine above 3,000 RPM. as long as it is about 14V you are charging correctly.

Don't you know there is no place for logic or common sense in gubermint.

Well your 87 'burb should be more reliable, it is the newer one after all. I have seen a few 1st gens chopped, bobbed, and even ratted.

Yes I believe it was Randy that put a 2nd gen grans into his 1st gen. BUT He also changed the rear end ratio to a V max to keep the proper final drive ratios.

In WI the only use limitation to Collector plates is that it can not be driven on the street in the month of January. Not normally a big deal for a bike in Wisconsin. Collector plate requires a one time payment of 2 years registration which is $23 + $50 and then the plates never expire, even if you transfer them to another bike. Antique plates are the ones with a lot of restrictions. I will not go that route.

In WI the collector plates have no bearing on insurance. My insurance co does not have a category for old bikes.

Every state has different rules for antique, collector, historic or whatever they call it tags.

#10 is one of the heat shields that goes just above the engine. the rubber lined slots are for the spark plug wires. You are looking at the top of it. I think that is the front one but I am not 100% certain. #26 Yes the battery box #31 is a chrome wraparound for the trunk Was this thing stored under water????

Do you have a link to the video that you watched? In order to adjust it per the service manual the top triple tree clamp will come off so that the locking cage and the top nut can come off.

§ Symbol means section. It is made on most windows computers by pressing and holding the ALT key and entering 21 on the numeric keypad then release the ALT key. There are a lot of useful special characters that can be accessed with the ALT key. You must use the numeric keypad and not the row of numbers above the characters. If you do not have a numeric keypad like on a laptop, then you may have a fn button + NumLk that will turn some of the letters into a numeric keypad. Don't forget to change it back or your typing will look funny. Google "ALT Code" The symbols sometimes change with different fonts.

It was determined that Seafoam is Naphtha, Coleman fuel is Naphtha, Isopropyl alcohol, and oil. It was never determined what kind of oil is used or the exact mix ratio. This was determined from the MSDS sheets. Those sheets are always vague on quantity of each ingredient to protect the formula. There was some experimenting going on with various oils. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?32679-Sea-Foam-for-Lawn-Mower&highlight=seafoam+msds http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?50556-Camp-Fuel-V-S-Sea-Foam&highlight=naptha

That is exactly what was missing, and now it has returned.

Glad to hear you are still around and moving forward. I can not even imagine what you have been and are still going thru.

Yea that's the one. I cleaned my glasses and washed my eyeballs and there it is.