Flyinfool

You still want to keep a good old fashioned battery charger around. If you ever run the battery dead, these newfangled smart chargers will look at the battery voltage and decide that maybe you have it hooked to something smaller than a 12V battery and will not turn on. This makes it difficult to get the battery back going after you left the head lights on over night or something else drains the battery bad. The good old dumb charger that will try to charge anything up to 12V is what you need to get that dead battery started. I don't use tenders on anything, My RV battery is 10 years old and only gets used 3-4 times a year, and still handling things fine and I get 6 years out of a flooded MC battery and in Wisconsin means it sits for 6 months at a time.

I wonder how that manifold would work with a small TBI system instead of a carb?? Yes the carb will be a LOT easier to set up initially. You will need to add throttle position sensor, O2 sensor(s), higher pressure fuel pump and lines, vacuum sensor mass airflow, etc. But I hate carbs..........

Well come on up here if/when it gets cold out. We are about to break all kinds of heat records for the year, its looking like we are headed for another warm winter.

See what you get for asking the wife. You do know that it is always easier to ask for forgiveness than to beg for permission. But DANG! I hate it when that happens.

Gold could be cast into muzzle loader bullets. Silver is kind of light and hard for good bullets. I am not to worried about werewolves just the timber wolves.

You/we can only hope for a ton of snow. It is coming sooner than later..................

I only partly misunderstood. I'm . Moving a connection from the battery to the frame will never make it better. Do you have any connectors between the switch and the LEDs? Measure the voltage across the LEDs when they are damp and glowing dim with everything turned off. If there is a connector in the system disconnect it and see if that voltage is still present on the LED side or the switch side. For testing, try putting a plastic bag over the switches to keep them dry and see if the damp days will still light the LEDs. There is a good chance you are getting moisture into the switch and it is allowing some small amount of current to leak past the contacts. The driving lights may still have the leakage current but the leakage may not be enough to light them even dimly. You mentioned that it does this even with the keys in the house. Is this switch panel wired to have power all the time or only with the key turned on?

I have to agree on a 4x4 for a bug out vehicle. While a jeep would be ideal for getting around it does not carry much stuff. I get my P/U into some pretty weird places when I want to hide from people for a quiet weekend. AND my P/U will hold a LOT more gear than a jeep. It will also easily top 100 mph if need be. And unlike in the movies, a bike will not run it off the road. When the stuff hits the fan, bullets and food will be the new currency. Gold, diamonds, silver, and other precious metals will be worthless. Well gold may still have some value, it is soft and heavy and it should be easy to cast into bullets.

Was in the 40s last night, MIGHT get up to 60° today. Weather man was starting to breaking the word SNOW on TV last night. He must have used it at least a half dozen times. Gonna have to get to work on that special 60° SNOW for @cowpuc.

Nice catch on finding a loose screw.................... Your mileage sure sounds like it is running on 3 cylinders. These bikes run incredibly smooth on 3. There have been people new to this bike that ran on 3 for over a year and never new it thinking it was running great, except for the gas mileage. The quick check is to start the bike cold and see if all 4 exhaust headers heat up at the same rate. That does not mean that you are not dropping a cyl at speed.

Woo Hoo Glad you are back to this story. I was missing getting to read it.

I am still guessing a bad ground. While there are only 2 frame connections at the engine and at the frame ground, there are many black ground wires that are spliced together all over the bike. If any one of those splices has been damaged, or corroded then you will get all kinds of weird and seemingly unrelated interactions. Electricity will always try to find a path back to the battery. It can go through many weird places to find that path. Whenever you have a bunch of circuits suddenly interacting it is almost always a ground issue. Finding it can be a PITA. The biggest clue is that the right turn signal flashes when the left is on. the power is going thru the other bulb to find a way to ground, all of the circuits on that ground leg are needing more power than the indicator bulb so the bulb lights, but the resistance of the bulb is to high to allow all of those other circuits to fully function and that is why the speedo and other things stop working when the turn signal is on. With the bike off. Set your meter to ohms. Connect the black lead to the battery negative terminal. Using the red lead start pulling connectors that have a black wire in them and checking the resistance of the ground circuit, it should be close to zero ohms. The other way to run a similar test. Set meter to volts, or use a test light. With the bike on but not running. (it can be running but stays cool when not running) Connect the black to the negative battery terminal. Check all of the ground wires in all of the connectors you can get to easily. If you find one ground that shows voltage or lights the test light, your bad ground connection is in between that point and the battery. All you can do is keep narrowing it down till you find the bad one.

Sitting you battery should read 12.6V. Sure sounds like a bad ground, A bad ground could also cause the battery to not charge properly.

Contact @Freebird

I bet that @cowpuc could help you pick out an appropriate sticker.

So does that mean that you will need to take your first husband out behind the woodshed with your whip?

So is that more of a burn on your arm than road rash?

The reason for NOT blipping the throttle with a liquid filled balancer is that as the engine revs and then you close the throttle the vacuum goes very high, on some liquid filled tools you can suck the fluid out of the tool and into the engine. The reason for blipping the throttle is to settle the linkages in the state that they will naturally fall with normal use. Adjusting the screws can introduce slight stresses into the links, blipping relieves any tension.

When you changed the oil, did you drain it on the center stand the side stand or a lift? Did you drain the transmission? Most of us do not drain the trans unless you are flushing out a problem like water or gas in the oil, but the oil left in the transmission will require less oil for the refill. Mine always takes a bit less than 3.5 quarts.

Morgan Carb Tune. http://www.carbtune.com/

I check mine once a year, have not had to touch them since I set them 5 years ago.

If you have not messed with anything then it is not likely that the sync would change in just 3 months. But it no big deal to check it at any time.

The guy that explained all of this to you, DO NOT EVER LET HIM TOUCH YOUR BIKE! Might not want to even let him look at it.

6 Months is not so bad. Up here in the land of the SNOW machine it is normal for a bike to sit for 6 months at a a time. When I went thru my heart issues the bike got put up early in October, Never had a chance to do any PM on it for storage and was not able to ride it again until September of the following year. It sat for 11 months with a half tank of crap gas and no treatments in it. It ran a bit ratty for the first couple tanks of gas but it did run and the Seafoam did clean it out. 2 Months later I had to put it to bed for the winter again. Get a battery and some Seafoam in there and crank it up.

There is a whole bunch of them dragging trailers big and small all over the country with no issues.