BlueSky

Man, I'm sorry to hear that. It must have been a painful fall. In Jan 2010, my last day of work at a plant northwest of Richmond, when I left the rented house to go to work that morning, the melted snow dripping from the roof had frozen on the front steps and my feet went out from under me with my back slamming against the steps. I got up and went to work. After work, I had to load up all my stuff and drive home. My back was so sore I had difficulty loading the truck. But, I was lucky in that I didn't break anything that I know of and my back healed, well sort of. If there were back replacements available I would be signing up!

An infrared thermometer is a great tool to have to check exhaust pipe temps. I think they are as cheap as $20. All 4 should be the same temp is they are working the same.

You might want to check the diaphragms in the carbs to make sure they don't have pinholes. And make sure the sliders are working freely.

I would also unscrew the spark plug caps from the wires and check them for resistance. The OE caps should be 9 to 10k ohms. If they have been replaced with NGK caps, they are probably 5k ohms. Look at the copper core wires. If they look green at all, clip a half inch or more off until you get to shiny copper wire and reinstall the caps. The wire might be corroded at the coil end too?

Happy Birthday Cowpuc! :dancefool:

If you haven't watched it, you may want to watch the attached video that covers adjusting the front forks.

After months of carrying my Ruger LCP .380 in my pocket with a loaded magazine, it was covered with lint. I was wondering if it would fire reliably like that without cleaning or lubing it. I was also wondering if the magazine spring was still strong enough to load reliably. So I took it to a firing range and it fired every round of several magazines without a hickup. Good little handgun.

Dumb question but did you check again to verify the rear gear is full? That sort of issue sounds like it would be in the rear gears or trans.

Well, now is a good time to repair 2nd gear if you want it repaired. It shouldn't be a lot of labor or cost involved if you could find a mechanic who is familiar with how to repair it. Like Puc and many others have proven, the bike will be reliable without 2nd gear if it is not important to you.

The rear brake on my 07 RSV is so powerful, I can't imagine trying to make it more powerful.

I don't open carry because it makes people nervous. Besides, if a nutcase every did try to shoot up the area you are in, who do you think he would shoot first? I don't want anyone to know I have a weapon until it's too late for them.

Yeah, looks like a great deal!

I'm really sorry Puc. He is too young for this dreadful disease to take him. My sympathies to all of the family.

I carry a pocket holstered Ruger LCP .380. It's reliable, small, and looks nice. I paid $300 for it 7 or 8 yrs ago but I think they are about $200 now.

Is this what you need? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-1993-Yamaha-Venture-MOTOR-MOUNT-BRACKET-BOLT-S-ENGINE-STAY-XVZ1300-XVZ1200/191366999113?fits=Year%3A1983%7CMake%3AYamaha&epid=2231989605&hash=item2c8e5cac49:g:jw8AAOSwubZZ6AGd

This guy rode his father's Sportster from Iowa back home to CA. His thoughts.

Looks like quite a project! Keep us updated!

May not help but I would put a bottle of Seafoam or my favorite, Gumout for high mileage engines with PEA, in a tank of gas and run it through. I suspect (just wild guessing here) though that your bike may be experiencing weak spark after it gets hot. Could you test the spark when it starts running rough? It's hard to check on all of the exhaust pipes on a Gen 2, but if you could check the exhaust pipes temperatures, it may tell you what cylinders are not firing. I have one of those infrared thermometers and it is a big help with this. I think they are as cheap as about $20 on line or at harbor freight. I paid a bit more for mine at Autozone.

What model are we talking about?

For some reason I thought that if the clutch was disengaged, dropping the side stand should not kill the engine. Either way is okay I suppose. Thanks

As a follow-up to this thread, I did bleed the clutch line and the clutch disengages without pulling the lever in all the way now. I have not replaced the slave cylinder but it is on my list. However, if the bike is in gear with the clutch lever pulled in all the way, the bike still shuts off when I put the side stand down. Is that normal?

Yeah, we all know the RSV has a very powerful rear brake that is easily locked up. The rear tire is a Dunlop Elite 3 and it appeared to have good grip on the dry road.

Wow! That was unusual. Would have made a great video if it could have been filmed.

Today I rode the RSV to the monthly Brunswick Nuclear Plant retiree luncheon which was about 38 miles away. Leaving Wilmington I was going around a left hand curve that was sort of blind by the trees on the inside in a 55 mph zone behind a Ford Escape when a road worker ran out in the road to retrieve a cap. He saw he was going to be run over so he turned and ran back. The Ford Escape driver slammed on his brakes and I got on my brakes very hard with the rear tire singing. I feel fortunate I didn't lock up the rear tire. I avoided hitting the Escape but I definitely had visions of stopping and punching out that highway worker! Be vigilant guys! Idiots abound!

You may be correct but I have a set of those T-handle allen wrenches and they seem to do the job.