BlueSky

The float level can be checked without removing them. Check the manual. A clear tube is connected to the drain and held up to see where the level is. Adjusting the level is a different story.

Have you checked the engine compression? I would do that first just to make sure the engine is okay.

Tires don't fail that often these days but they do fail. I've needed a spare tire when on the road 5 times that I remember in the last 21 years. An oh by the way, if you own an old F150 close to the vintage of my 2002, the cable that holds the spare tire tends to break especially if you tighten it too much. Mine fell off somewhere on the highway. Hopefully it didn't cause a wreck behing me. I was not aware of it falling off. I bought a spare wheel from a salvage yard and a used tire from a local tire shop while I as in Homestead, FL. The new cable replacement from Ford has a spring on the end that reduces the tension on the cable keeping it from breaking. The NHTSA tried to get Ford to recall the affected trucks but they refused.

I have a short video that was emailed to me long ago of I believe Canadian snipers shots in Afghanistan. Anybody who would like to get this video, pm your email to me and I will send it. It shows the devastating power of the 50 cal sniper rifle. Squeamish may not want to see it.

Checked my RSV (I thought) and rode it to an inspection station in order to renew the registration. Turns out the low beam headlight doesn't work but the guy passed it anyway. Then rode to the license plate office to renew it and my two trailers. I looked at the owner's manual for the headlight bulb and it only says it's 60/55W. Why the heck doesn't it identify the bulb number? How do you get to it on an RSV? Oh, last month I found out that my Kawasaki at 35 years old doesn't require an inspection any more to renew the plate.

Check the fuel filter to try and see if it is full of rust particles. Add some seafoam or fuel injector cleaner with PEA to the fuel tank to help clean up those carbs.

Try pinwall cycle in Ohio. They sell lots of bike parts. Also, if you look up the part numbers of what you need at partzilla and google those specific part numbers, sometimes that will find what you need.

I think 91 is the first year for the strong starter. (4 brush starter versus a 2 brush starter) So, you shouldn't have to worry about slow hot starts.

Welcome! Did you get a 1st Gen this time too?

I'm no expert on these bikes but I think I would start on the rear by making sure the brake isn't sticking, not likely I'm thinking, and then pull the rear wheel and inspect.

The front brake on my 07 takes more hand pressure than I like but I can make the front tire howl when stopping quickly which is probably good enough. I'm sure the brakes have the OE pads. Perhaps for a rider with my below expert skills, it is safer than more sensitve brakes especially on wet roads.

Kinda like Puc and Tippy getting a ticket for impersonating a cop because Tippy was wearing a white helmet.

There is a used one on ebay. Pinwall cycles may have one. I suggest you try other parts houses just on the off chance they have one in stock such as bikebandit, babbitts, carolina cycle and many more.

Check the compression to verify the engine is healthy. Then check to make sure the engine base is vented properly.

Yeah, bikes with saddlebags are wider than you think. I would be afraid to do it on my Venture but the Kawasaki, I would do it if the cars are stopped.

Fluid Film

All these "safety" features can be irritating at times. How did I survive to be 77, starting with no seat belts, no steering wheel locks, no neutral switches...? I don't remember my first bike, a 71 Honda CB350 having any interlocks. My riding lawn mower started blowing fuses so I bypassed the safety interlocks one by one trying to find the short. I had to be seated with the brake depressed, and the blades off to start it. Then if I backed up the engine shut off. That thing is so much more of a pleasure to use now with those interlocks bypassed. By the way the short was in the device below the carb bowl that supposedly shuts off the fuel to prevent backfiring when the engine is shut down. I defeated it too because a new one cost about $80 and it wasn't effective anyway.

Velly, velly nice!

One more thing to expect is that the spark plug caps screw onto the wires and it isn't a weatherproof connection resulting in the wires corroding. Typically, clipping a half inch or more of the wire will get rid of the green copper wire and screw them back together. MY 85 Kawasaki wires include an oring inside the cap connection that makes it a weatherproof connection.

Sounds like a great find! Rusty tank would be the primary concern. There is a filter but. Likely the carbs would need cleaning.

My ex next door neighbor had a heavy duty looking trailer that folded up and stood upright on the side of his garage. It had small diameter wide tires on it. I don't know the brand or cost but it was pretty neat. Sadly, he passed a year or so ago at age 88.

If you haven't found this yet, this site has the RSV manual available to read. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/topic/63540-rsv-and-rstd-service-manuals/?tab=comments#comment-766941

That sounds like the Gen 2 gear whine everybody seems to think is caused by the clutch basket gear. My Gen 1 transmission (only 6k miles) is fairly quiet unlike my Gen 2. The Gen 2 has a loud whine/chirp at a certain rpm and almost all Gen 2s have that annoying whine/chirp.

Progressive spring explanation from the manufacturer FORK SPRING KIT The 'Original' Progressive Rate Fork Springs soak up the small road bumps, yet are firm enough to absorb the molar-rattling ones. Spring rates have been chosen to reduce front end "dive" during braking, yet still provide excellent ride comfort. Better yet, we warranty our fork springs for life! Progressive Rate Fork Springs have several advantages over straight rate springs. A Progressive Rate Spring has the advantage of a rising rate resistance to compression. The benefit of this is that the spring can be soft enough at the start of the travel to offer a "plush" ride, yet be firm enough at the end of the travel to soak up the big bumps

Welcome! Go to the tech library and read up on the first gens. This is a thread you might want to read in particular. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forum/77-known-problems-and-things-to-look-for/