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Don, I looked over the Dyna site and found that the RSV would use a Dyna 3000 module. At least it looks that way as they don't list any of the newer RSV's. But under their heading about buying, there are quite a few choices? Do you remember which unit your purchased for your RSV? Also, it looks like advance curve #2 would be perfect as well as setting limiter to 7250rpm. Agree? TIA

On my 2nd Gen, I was running Shinko 777HD's front and rear. 38 front 42 rear. Loved that tire. Had around 3K miles on it when I got a nail in East CHicago on my road trip. Sad to see it gone....because I think the mileage would have been there. It looked brand new and I was carrying quite the load for the last 2K miles. Have a Shinko 230 on the rear of the RSV now...I'll leave it on till it's gone. Really like the "feel" of the Shinkos. Very comfortable ride...At least for me...

Will keep you in my thoughts, Prayers Up!

Puc and I have been running Shinko 230's on our 1st gens. Great tire but won't last long at 80 plus mph across the 100 plus degree temp roads fully loaded. The heat gets all tires. I have about 5K on mine, but most of my trips to Phoenix and back to Tucson are not heavily loaded and I stick around 75mph. I also don't ride much in the heat anymore...old bod can't handle it like it used to! My rear still looks about 1/2 gone. Figure I might get another 4K out of it. Front looks new. @cowpuc will chime in and tell you his riding style and wear on various tires over the years.

I did it to my 89 and have pictures but can't find the link right now. I do remember, I took off the headlight trim, both mirrors the windshield and unscrewed the top fairings to loosen the top...then pull the fairings apart. From the front, simply reached in with a long screwdriver, undid two screws, 2 electrical connectors and the speedo cable and pulled the speedo/dash assembly out with it's frame. On the bench, I took the CMS module apart and jumpered according to the directions I found on the site. I also jumpered the Headlight module (Reserve Lighting Unit) found directly under where the dash sits in the front, disconnected the module and put it aside, then jumpered the connector....which in essence bypasses the RLU and it's warnings on the dash so I could put in an LED headlight bulb. Easy to do. There are pictures and text of both operations on the site... Think I found the ones I used and mine as well... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?129385-1st-Gen-LED-Headlight&highlight=reserve+lighting+unit Read all the way through. The jumper pictures for the tail light and turn signals, etc., are about half way down. The rest involves moving over to an LED bulb headlight.

Here is a thread that talks about the parts of the clutch slave. About half way down the thread. There are pics but they aren't connected...hopefully Freebird can find them and reconnect them. @Freebird...can you follow the link and reconnect the pictures that go with? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?21978-1st-Gen-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder

Fantastic! Can't wait for the next chapter! Thanks for sharing... P.S. Probably nothing wrong with your scoot...just the quartering headwinds that knock down the mpg's, especially when loaded. Those are the worst!

I copied this from her FB page. Hope you don't mind, Annie... "To my family and friends in FB land...I’m okay but “Dottie” isn’t looking too good, I had to take evasive action yesterday to prevent any harm coming to Riders in front of me after traffic suddenly stopped. Have broken bone on side of hand, skinned knuckles, and badly bruised arm to the shoulder. Lower arm in half splint.....and today I am very sore in upper body BUT I’m here and no one else was hurt !!"

I've been thinking about that...and thinking of ways to reinforce the top of the lowers. I can't remember seeing any vibration type flex on them on this cross country trip when I ran into heavy winds for a good part of it. I may have solved part of that problem when I reinforced the lower parts of the fairings with fiberglass last year, after seeing how prone they are to cracking due to flex stress. Maybe a simple layer of epoxy and glass matt near the top of the inside of the fairing will solve that problem. Plus, by adding a small square of ABS where the bolt would go through, I may be able to stiffen up the mounting so it doesn't crack with vibration. Thanks for confirming that I need to take that into account. LOL...maybe a little flexing would be good...like a modulating headlight! And as Neil said...I think I am making to much of the this whole problem. Just mount the darn lights where I want them and live with it!!

Hmmm interesting for sure. Two thoughts to add to the fire: 1: The linked brakes on the 1st gens are designed to apply brake pressure to the rear first under light brake pressure...then as pressure is increased...more power goes to the front brake. I've had no troubles trail braking my linked 1st gen. Even in dirt/sand it works well.... 2: If linked brakes are so dangerous, why are so many manufacturers going with them now...on many different types of scoots?

Happy 4th, guys and gals! Stay safe, hope the BBQ comes out great.. and health and happiness follows you all throughout the years!

Don't want to go lower as the light is low enough as is to just barely be useful. I would want to move it forward about 1.5 inches. But Neil has me thinking about just mounting them and see what happens. I can always take them off....

But the bottom line, Neil, is put them up and get better use of the light or mount them down. You run one set low and one set high.

Yikes! Do you have stock springs or Progressives? I'm still on stock and I can bounce the bike hard enough to get the travel to hit the light. I run no air in front at all...maybe that's my problem... The forks were rebuilt last year and springs measured. Put 15 wt oil in instead of the stock weight. I could be paranoid! Would hate to break those wind deflectors...

I've been looking for something like an angle bracket from places like Kuryakin. Would like to keep it looking decent. Here are the lights and the little bracket that comes with them.... As you can see, there is only about 1.5 inches between the bottom of the plastic and the top of the light if I mount directly to the fender bolt. Front fork travel is around 5.3 inches. More and more I'm re-thinking mounting them on the top of the lowers. I already have quick disconnects on the end of the wires so taking the lowers off will not be a problem and I like the idea of the light being higher anyway. Let's face it, they are for use during the day to help me be seen and at night for the critters, both 2 legged and 4, that cruise on the highway when they shouldn't.... If you have any other suggestions, I'm all ears! TIA

You will like the 777HD on your scoot. I loved mine and it handled the very heavy load I had on my trip. It's a shame that East Chicago threw a nail at me and my rear tire caught it. Hated to let that baby go as she only had about 3k miles on her and 3 months old. It was a comfortable tire and handled the wind and rain fine.

It looks like your mounts keep the light away from the wind deflector...and that is my problem. IE, farther forward. If I mount to the fender bolt, a good bump or pot hole will find the deflector hitting the light.

Agreed. The longer hose works for me as well. Routing it up in a big loop allows me to keep the bleeder open and watch the air bubbles. Slow and easy... and if the system is in good shape, it should only take 15 minutes or so.

Hmmm I can do that.... "Pretty please with a cherry on top" (just in case no one else like cherries!) No..I'm not trying to jump in here....carry on.

I thought I read somewhere that Dunlop is re-releasing the old 402's (?). Didn't they have the retro looking raised white letters?

Geesh...just when I was about to throw in the towel... I run across a picture of @VentureFar 's 2nd gen. He has lights mounted to what looks like his fender bolts. Must have a a home made type mount to stick them forward enough. Gotta ask: Neil....how are the 2 lights mounted down low on your forks???

You will love the 230's on your 1st gen. My 89 has had them for 4 years now and I still love them! Have about 5K miles on them and the rear is about half done. Front still looks great! I keep them at 38-40 front and 42 rear.

Is this what you are looking for? https://www.bikebandit.com/tires-tubes/motorcycle-tires/dunlop-american-elite-motorcycle-tire/p/22634?m=147009

Well steve, that was a good idea...thank you. Unfortunately, I had a friend come over to see what I was up to, we were discussing your idea. He noticed something that I didn't...The little air deflectors on either side of the shocks will hit the lights if the shocks move more than a few inches. I bounced the bike up and down and he confirmed...With about 5 inches of travel on the front shocks, I would have to cut off about 3 inches of the deflectors. So...that's out. But thanks, Steve.

Good to hear things are coming alone on your 89. 1: You don't have to replace the silica...just bake it in the oven under low heat until it's dry. I forget the color when dry (pink?). but that's all you need to do. Be careful taking the canister apart..clean everything. 2: When using the CLASS system, you need to be aware of a few things: a. bike should be on center stand with no weight on bike (so to speak. Sidestand is OK) b. Only works with key in "ACC" position. Not adjustable when riding. c. Always adjust front first then rear. Other wise high pressure air from rear can damage the front fork seals. 3: If you have inspected all lines for leaks and still have issues with rear, then you need to download the service manual on this site for the 1st Gen Venture. You will probably need to take apart the solenoid for the rear (I don't remember which is which of the 3) and clean it out..checking for bad o rings. Clean them all. 4: The rear shock may be bad, but I doubt it as these shocks seem to be almost bullet proof. 5: On the left side down low by the passenger foot rest there is a damper switch. Changes the damping effect of the rear shock. Never "spin" that thing from one position to the other. Always go one step at a time. You are raising/lowering a little "jet" (for lack of a better word) that controls the flow rate of the oil. That's about it. Other than electrical errors which will occur at the head unit from time to time due to flexing the big white connector that connects to the control unit...all repairs are usually straightforward. Brilliant little system...but slow to work so have patience. These were built in the early days of computers... Hope this helps Yikes. I see Rick beat me to the keyboard. Well now you have 2 sets of answers saying the same thing!