videoarizona

target?

The only things you didn't mention is the throttle cable connected to the vacuum unit and the vacuum hoses. There is an adjustment proceedure that "must" be followed to make sure both the hand throttle cables and the cruise throttle cables work together. If the cruise cables are to loose, for example, the cruise will not stay on....cause the speed will drop to far before it can engage. Mine drops about 5mph before the vacuum unit catches up. The system is a bit slow.....but there are a couple of simple proceedures... I just hold throttle until the cruise catches up...about 4 seconds. I need to adjust my cables...just haven't got there yet! Check the vacuum hose between the pump and actuator. Check for loose connections at same area. Losing vacuum will make the cruise drop off and not hold speed. Last, you may need up taking the computer out and check for bad solder joints...usually where the connector comes into the computer. If the connectors are corroded, or the circuit boards have a bad solder joint...the unit will be intermittant or worse... Suggest you start in one area and go back over each piece...and then each system..(electrical, vaccum, cables). Please report back what you are finding....lots of help here...lots of experience! Good luck, david

So hard to hear....prayers up...

BTW, I've done swr readings in garages or out in the open. The meter reads electrically between two hard wired points....the garage may change the pattern of the radiated signal, but I don't "think" the swr meter will reflect that. But I'm not an expert...just did some antenna theory/practicals while in radio and tv broadcast. I changed my antenna last week on my VR and did the readings in the garage. Got good readings...so I left it that way. Seems to work very well... FWIW, david

Understood... Then I'm curious how you can adjust the SWR with a Francis antenna? There has to be a way to shorten or lengthen, physically or electrically, so you can adjust the swr?? Is there a tiny tip that is adjustable? And the "input" of the swr meter should have the antenna connected...the output of the meter goes to the CB input. The swr meter is electrically between the antenna then the CB. The swr meter should be labelled "ant" and "cb". If that is what you did then you are good to go. If not, reverse. In other words, the antenna should plug in directly to the swr meter...no other connections. The output of the meter needs a small cable to connect it to the cb. Hmm...hard to visualize without images...but lets see how the above fits with what you did... david

Coming a few months late on this...but I was just reading that the CB's on our bikes have a built in failsafe that is good for about five minutes of protection during transmitting. So if you have a bad antenna or a shorted cable, you can safely keep transmitting for short bursts without blowing the outputs....until you figure out you have a problem. david

Interesting readings. Where are you connecting the SWR meter? So you swapped antennas and the readings changed. One antenna should be optimized for CB and one not. The CB antenna should have a loading coil on it and a way to adjust the length... Make sure that is the antenna you are using for the CB. david

On my 1st gen, no. Sounds like feedback between speakers and mike....? david

Perfect! Thank you, Kevin!

Favor? Go to the last few pages of the shop manual and look at the electrical schematic for the bike. Are the wire color legends readable? On the scanned manual we can download, when I zoom in enough to wehre I could read the color legends, they are blurred! Please let me know how clear the printing is... thanks! david

Thinking maybe one of those little digital volt meters.....miniscule draw, switched, hmmm.

Makes sense, thx. I'll file that away for when I change the battery out so I can change the resistor. Nice to know a lot of my bike is original.

Hmmm..will put that on the back burner and let is sizzle for a while... thx

And I have the older style battery....with sensor.... Holding a charge well....guess I'll leave it in. Plus there is a resister in-line with the sensor lead. Interesting what P.O.'s have done.... david

Yay...I guessed correctly. Hmm...now wondering if I could use it for something?? Hah! Thank you!

Wonder if it's the air vent control valve for California models?

Ok I'll bite.. Will you please tell me about that mysterious connector with the green color? And...I have two fuse boxes, the old one sitting on top of the battery and a newer fuse type sitting in front of the battery holder.

LOL! Geesh....well everything works and bike runs fine...so...who knows??

Followed advice here.... Took battery box out and checked the wires going into coils. 3 out of 4 were clean with no arcing issues. The 4th had a touch of corrosion on the end. Cleaned the coil tower insides and cut off the corroded end. Put back together. Only question I ahve...is on the left side next to the rear coil there is a green 2 wire plug. Can't see the colors of the wire....but it's not connected to anything. Could not see a mate anywhere nearby. Any idea on what it is?

Sounds reasonable to me...

Monty, drove past that area twice in the past year. Dam...wish I had known it was there...... Thanks for sharing...cool looking place! (note to self: gotta leave credit card at home)

Hmm...I've been thinking of doing this... Did you write up anything about your modification? Did you add a resistance unit (or simialr) so the LED blinkers work properly? Did you simply replace the bulbs in the turn signals and tail/brake...or use a custom tail/brake kit that plugs into the standard bulb socket? Thanks, david

+1 on the thanks. Love those guys! I love the oldies... david

Cool, Puc... Thanks for the write ups!

I enjoy reading about this stuff. Thanks for keeping us in the loop, Randy. Hoping you are getting some pictures as well.... Always like to learn about the scoot I ride!