Patch

Yes I remember now about the trunk I lifted it and budgied it to the rack in a campsite of all places the 1st time. Having said that, I do know that once you get the system properly sorted, and there are issues, usually good to go and I enjoyed the adjustability of it! Not to mention getting it up on the center stand helps to max it out.. Thanks for steering Bongo Patch

You know Bongo and Carl know the bike details better than I so I'm sure they'll step up if I get it mixed up. The seat has to be removed to access the module and there should be a black cover in line with the trunk on the fender. The rear line runs down the front of the rear fender attached to the frame and should hook into the top of the can. Cleaning it well is the best start, it can get pretty ugly down there. The can is actually rubber suspension bag, sometimes they develop a leak and can be swapped out. Any way use a couple of jack stands because likely you will have your head under as well as from above spraying the area with soapy water, and maybe a flash light will help. Work your way back to the module. If you open a line at both ends blow them out. Patch

Remember working on a pressurized system you need to bleed the air 2nd. I think if I understand your post it's just the rear leaking??? I would pressure up the rear after giving the area a quick pressure wash around the swing arm.. With the pressure up look for leaks with very soapy water. If you find anything at all BLEED THE PRESSURE before adjusting! If not move up checking and spraying along to the relay control under the seat. There a couple of O-rings at the tube ends, if memory serves? Likely a good time to grease the swing and check the side stand bolt as well. And bring a dish rag you're still a trial member;)

"retaining clip " Not sure what type of clip is in use? But if it is the spring type then you could wire the 2 eyes together neatly. Seems to me that the ID is incorrect?

Wow I missed the party.. I have some thoughts on the matter. I ran into something similar some years back on a well established forum. There were "class" divides, this often lead to off topic post's which lead to defensive posturing. Maybe a disadvantage to me but I learned reading and writing rather late in life and unfortunately, assembling alphabet isn't easy for me. As a result I really need to think through what I write, also need to remember to write concidering the OP is likely under some stress or emotional influence. When we combine those traits in a forum setting sometimes things spill over and doors begin to slam. Gen 3 should be a growth opportunity for the community, just like Gen 1.5 could of been; we're taller, heavier and like 4 time the pony's! A forum is not a library, it is an exchange - and therefore badgering has no place, and this need be a golden rule, and is not just my opinion. A "newbie" needs more then a welcome, usually he benefits form tweaks and passed down experience to engage him/her not just directions to the library, speaking in general terms of course. YOU can not assemble a group of boys with toys without leadership! So Mod's must moderate before cutoff. If this or any forum does not grow then stop buying calendars the witching hour is just around the corner. These old bikes still sell because there remains a support network, so this forum remains relevant, yet can't be close minded to new design and evolution, in fact it should be a learning and comparison experience or simply growth. (maybe some envy) Freebird have you thought about contacting a Yamaha rep? Open a day for an open communication with this group... Or a meet up in CANADA because you know we Canadians are so politely analytical;) I haven't yet to read the party attendants comments, but it remains just one thread amongst how many.. Eck if you're still following; Buddy it's easy to give up the habit - this trick works for me every time, "new to you girlfriend", you know they just completely rip you away from all else;) Patch

"I have to say that I have been deeply disappointed in the stability of this bike while on the highway in windy situations. The bike seems to be more unstable in crosswind situations more so than a previous Goldwing that I owned. This is been quite surprising to me given how heavy this bike is. But I can't say that I'm very pleased with the power that it develops, and I have seen an average of 34 MPG. I did find out though that I cannot escape from running 92 Ron. When I switched from 87 to 92, I found that the valve train quit rattling." There is a lot information in the above! Like Bongo suggests you have missed things. Not sure why when buying old sport machines more of us don't start with compression checks? To be fare I haven't read all your posts perhaps you have? If your bike hasn't a crisp throttle response her pony's aren't working together! There was a time when we would not rebuild carbs before checking compression! CV Carbs need the low end pressure to do more than drip. There is a balance designed in for performance trade off's, which are made early on in design for the category and expectations of overall satisfaction and to be competitive against other brands! Yamaha started with a clean sheet here and did a pretty good job. The carbs are in the middle of a fluid/velocity/air band without warning lights to inform which isn't pulling their weight. That has a direct effect on lever or torque measured off the CL of her crank! Like 4 guys pushing a car and one is suffering a hangover;) You need to know this by checking compression, then address if any issues, then final the carbs. So I am guessing: you are getting back into riding and the last ride was a Wing 1200? If so yes these ride different in the wind but I found they are more predictable because they tack with wind on the beam. Last year we road past many a parked bikes waiting for the wind to lighten up; only once did we both pucker up over a flyover when the gust caught us pushing us in to the next lane while leaning through the twist! I mention this to inspire confidence, she'll behave but you need to be sure of the setup, and lower your rear pressure on bad days to bring The CG down. Another thing I did was cut my shield down which took pressure off my front. When I finally hit the right mark I was pleased with the results. I know it must seem like a long and lots of hours to get her to where she is. If This helps, when I take on a project I start with the known complaints, then start hunting parts for tired replacements while I work my book of tricks on the drive train - and that always starts with compression! Patch

Hey Greg, In one of your post you mention car battery... that answer is yes. The coils will multiply what ever the input is. So damp unused bikes can benefit from this practice. In all cases we need rpm to compress and fire, another benefit! Yes the carbs should be removed and cleaned. I am not familiar with the product Flyinfool mentioned but likely he is. I use occasionally Seafoam in a 50/50 mix directly from the pump to the bowls easy enough to do! I would be willing to wager that she is suffering from "stuck rings" a compression test would confirm this. Another way is to remove the carbs - cup your hand over the intakes one at a time - spin the engine around 5 times. I don't have to tell you to be careful right, it is an uncomfortable position. You should feel an almighty vacuum pressure drawing down and holding your palm tight to the intake port! If as I suspect is the case, you may feel some but it will quickly release. If so then pretty hard to expect there to be sufficient vacuum to operate a CV carb! Depending on your findings and the test type you use we can point you forward. Also you may find that you get a push of air in the above explained, that should change as we progress! If you choose to 50/50 mix 1st let us know and I will explain how to proceed without running the engine and likely start tackling the stuck ring at the same time. Patch

Hey Casey, Flyinfool is bang on and expressed the dynamics simply too. When we change or mod things we often do so in a "static" train of thought. (not unlike the other post ongoing with regards to adding a switch to the compressor) SO we have identified one issue with your front suspension, confirmed progress. However there must me other out of balances going on. 1st I would continue to check off the list above. As we do so we narrow down to what ever the remaining conclusions must be accepted, and resolved. I use 0/30 and I also drained and used it in that other machine we ran cross country, which also had Progressive brand. Now as I mentioned that bike had been butchered and lowered to fit a rider outside design spec. Picture a stunt bike weighing at at a K+;;; so it was a long way back to Venture touring on that one. I know others here use 0/30 perhaps there has been discussions on the insanity of this, so perhaps members stopped bringing it forward? Mine ran with this for many years, I would use it again! Its not easy to move this or displace this weight of oil- but as we have experienced it will pass through the dampening porting chambers at a reduced velocity. So lets break it down: there was a reason (s) the springs were swapped. Some because their bikes fall over off the side stand, some to reduce dive, some to prevent bottoming out. Sticking to a "static" train of..... There are certainly 2 of these that I find easy to agree with and which lead to the same conclusion - the springs have sagged. Often I've read post's that lay all blame on the air system, and they come up with a "patch fix" often based on a rumor justified by the decision to spend their hard earned $$$ and other follow suit?! So back to Progressive brand, they are fast acting and they will stretch the forks out so usually this reduces the risk of the bike falling when left on the side stand! Personally I cut my stand down 14mm was simple enough and I can justify the static approach to the problem! But my springs were sagged and the action was poor so I still needed to address that. I had inventory so I fitted the progressives I had and like the upper balance I believed they would bring! The tubes? I can't remember if I rebuilt them or just soaked them? Regardless I played first with the spring motion by trimming the (towers) preload, then I tried different oils. It didn't take long to figure I wanted more dampening "slower action". I am pretty sure I read on this forum an "out of the box" thinker posted 0/30 and that worked out very well for me! It didn't spell the end of the project but it put an end to the that half and I moved on to the air system half of the problem all of which is somewhere on this forum! to the last of your questions: The volume is calculated and should be adhered to in my opinion. The last thing you want on the front is a sudden stop in the compression of the shocks. Patch

Glad to contribute some experience. So if the air system is not in use, is the bridge and those fine O-rings still in place below the cap ends? (it's suppose to be a closed system) I ran into a modified Venture last year that defied easy comprehension; however the bike (not mine) came with a box of extra parts which gave me clues to what had been done, so a place to start. Patch

Post #3 reflects the problem! You have received the best information on #2 & #4 You chose a complicated optioned ride, you should learn the systems or, you may not be content with it, long run. Why do long time members pay attention to "newbies" they have experience to pass forward that's it. You can bring your laptop to the garage and have one of the above mentioned and others guiding you through the steps.... NO Egos here:) isn't that why we ride metric and not those banger's lol You'll get through it PS. Carl you haven't aged a bit;) Patch

Hi Casey, So perpetual problems beat us because they are perpetual! Then the answer must be viewed with measure and rules. "they loose lots of oil pretty fast, 10 miles" First I expect that form isn't true. Check list: lift the bike, extend forks then place a straight edge along the uppers 4 locations or 90* moving around the tubes... Next caliper the seats for the seals look for any flat spot or bad clips... (take a pic & post) What are you using to set the seals in place? Do you lube them first? Other thoughts: Could there be build up at the bottom of the dampers? (you mentioned that they collapse) Progressive brand don't usually but if the damper isn't functioning correctly.... When filling do you compress shock fully? So that's 2 strikes so far on the dampers maybe 3! Next what condition are the O-rings at the top caps in? Is your air still hooked up? Comment: I am not a fan of the"progressive spring" brand. I find the action is way to fast for a touring machine! Side by side I found them tiring and a butt tightener on rough roads.. Next and I feel strongly about this, you are not using the best oil for this machine. 0-30 is a better way in my opinion Mobile 1 or next best available there are good reasons for this too. It took me a long while to get my springs and front end balanced but once there! Patch

Hey guys, it has been a while since my last confession. Last year I and a buddy took our Ventures for a stretch. I ended up with rear rubber problems, broken toes, cracked elbow, and you know that gut feeling as she rolls to nap on ya... It started in an S curve..... Well I tell you story another time;) So in MTL I found tires - just one day away - so I had to hurry up and wait of course for a week, but they could make time to change them for me so I waited. Like many of us I am not comfortable with someone else working on my bikes, however doing it in the motel parking lot.... On my return home pulling up to the door I thought I heard a noise from the rear, also noticed she slipped back quite a bit on the side stand in 1st? I had a list of stuff I wanted to do on the bike nothing major but certainly look her over in depth and the work on the rear wheel the coming spring. Well no riding for me this year maybe next as well they tell me so I listed it. I also went through the bike with a fine tooth comb and she sold to a very nice fellow named Les, (i'm sure he'll member up) I mentioned to Les that I hadn't check the back yet but talked about her horses all being in a row and, that I would deliver her after I checked the rear end! When I drain the melon OH brother she sparkled yikes. I ran my pencil magnet through the spill, then began the tear down. The pinion as you can see one half in the pic is toast. Not sure if the bearing went first then the gear or if it was just a soft one, previous owner hauled first 2 years, so don't know if... I do know I've changed the oil and it didn't have that many miles still only 81k KLM Well regardless I am grateful she didn't lockup on my trip and that I get to spare the risk posed to Les.. So I am having a devil of a time sourcing a replacement. I have found 1 old 1200 and 1, 9 though in my territory, I posted a Canada wide search this morning but nothing so far. Does the Gen 2 bolt right on? I know they have a sensor, there seems to be many of those around.. Opinions Thoughts? Patch

That by the way is a nice looking 84! I have a little different perspective regarding the VMax heads over the stock ones; I went through this with two other bikes that I still own and decided that the one we used for touring needs more economy then whiplash. Of course we can unleash the horses through "lift and duration" add port size to the mixe tune velocity exedra, but- nothing is for nothing, right, higher consumption is inevitable, piston loading of course takes longer to show up but it will.. Just looking at it from a touring perspective Patch's

Thanks Kic, your suggestions hit the mark, it turns out that the noise is coming from the collector, also as you mentioned usually when cold! Well at least not something I need worry about for the foreseeable future;) I rapped up all the little nuisance items, even compounded her, put the key in started her up and.... blank monitor(: Got to love the sport;)

You can PM me and bring it over to my shop, if you like. Patch's

Hello all.... Well it has been a while since my last.... I've had some time to spend in the garage of late and, I tackled front suspension, again. Sometime back I swapped springs, but I hadn't much time to ride and when I did I really wasn't happy. Last Saturday early morning I trimmed my extensions, and by feel alone I set them twice then buttoned it up and spent the rest of the day in the mountains; I love it, finally! As some of you know I did quite a bit of work on it last spring, happy to say her power is still up and again very pleased now with her overall performance. Now I seem to have developed that rattling noise, and I seem to remember that this was a known issue as a loose starter gear?? Is that correct? Or do I have my Ladies mixed up, again? Patch's

Like GW says you can't sync carbs until they are sync-able; that means they need to all have the same potential, they all need to flow fuel! They need to come off Patch

Well carbs are somewhat of a different lingo in the sense that one has to understand both the simplicity and the complexity that makes them work(( All of us have to kind of step up so to speak when it comes to understanding what a symptom is or why a carb is out of tune. I believe an opportunity has been missed when Kevin offered to help you with them. Having someone like Kev showing anyone or sharing their experience is a hard to come-by gift! Perhaps a PM exchange? After which you'll have the confidence to tackle the next set on your own! Let us know what you decide and we'll pitch in. On another note, we have won a contract that will likely keep us out of internet reach soon, mentioning this so you don't think I'm ignoring your posts. Patch

This is an interesting problem? Things that can be confusing like full or easy rev with no load..... misleading. So we need to rule out the simple stuff, the intake clamps are not interfering with the carb linkage? to know for certain you need to inspect the action while twisting the throttle, make certain the linkage runs full open. Next full pump pressure, it isn't enough to say, we have fuel, we see fuel, we here the pump, that's fine when we are looking for a no run situation, but leaves doubt when figuring a high RPM problem! AS is tank venting! Please allow me vent for a moment>>> I have a problem on one cyl of six cylinder on a pretty sophisticated engine! This is my daily ride, my never let me down, absolutely reliable tun the key and go car! I built the fuel system for this, I pulled plugs after 80K and found them to be in perfect condition except for #6 , these are sequential fire 2 plugs per cyl. One cylinder tells two differ stories when I read the plugs, however they are both suggesting cold combustion. So I decided to check compression, well in all my years I have never had such a confusing result. Cutting to the point the readings on the one cyl are all over the place, so my mind says mechanical, right? But then why would one cyl with 2 plugs read completely differently- that is to say two different stories on the same cylinder are told by the plugs? My compression test suggests spring failure, whether its a lifter spring or valve spring. The only thing I can rule out for certain is that it's not the compression ring; and I had already ruled out wiring based on the compression result; now I have to think I have more than one thing a miss here!? This problem is relevant because it proves we need to rule possible causes off the check list, if we allow mileage high or low to rule for us then we start to chase our tails! Fuel pressure is important, also and maybe not likely is the filter in the right way? When you disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the port does the idle change? Could the tube be faulty? Patch

There are times where the answer is- remove the carbs! It's time to remove them, they need a closer inspection! Then they need a bench sync! Patch

You may be right but does this sound like separated boots? Patch

Recently did some wiring on mine and Cowpuc nailed it, because of the mild corrosion we found in the old wiring we could not get a proper joint without the flux! Patch

I've never work on your model, all I can offer is some general direction, you need to check for spark at the plugs, you can do this with a timing light, a spark tester, or by removing the plug and grounding it to the engine or bike frame. You should see a crisp, blue spark that we say (crushes) if its not blue report what color you see. NEVER hold the plug or wire while testing, its high voltage. Of course we assume there is fuel in the tank, after spark we check to see if the fuel is making it's way over. Maybe someone can chime in as to potential of over-voltage to the black box on this model? Patch

So Beau- a couple of things, as you know the slides are steadied by a bring counter force, if the boots have holes then you can do a quick check by gently siding them with a finger! Now here is what you want to look for, SMOOTH action, slow steady as you push her in and it should run as far the the bore itself (flush to the wall, not beyond) DO you feel any BINDING- any at all? Next when you remove your finger from the piston, does it move completely back to the resting position, EVENLY and SLOWER than the pressure of the spring? I think your link refers to the boot twisting, and usually where you'll find cracks or holes! Now for myself with a high rpm rev problem, I think, "filling" or "advance" first;; so for me I would do a compression test. I prefer to do it when CV are off but it's not necessary. The results and the cylinder suspected cyl & corresponding numbers would be helpful. What are you using to check the pipes? How many minutes after start time, my 1st readings are done after 2 and completed within 4 minutes. Where on the pipes are you measuring? Patch